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Alexander Megos on belaying Margo Hayes up Biographie at Céüse
28/09/2017 - Interviews
Alexander Megos on belaying Margo Hayes up Biographie at Céüse
A semi-serious interview with Germany’s ace climber Alexander Megos who belayed Margo Hayes during her historic first female ascent of Biographie at Céüse in France.
Silvestro Franchini climbs difficult new crack in Val Genova
27/09/2017 - Climbing
Silvestro Franchini climbs difficult new crack in Val Genova
Italian mountain guide Silvestro Franchini (30) reports about the first ascent of 'Fessura del Caret', a difficult new crack climb in Val di Genova within the Adamello - Brenta Natural Park.
Andrea Zanone redpoints SS26 at Gressoney, Italy
26/09/2017 - Climbing
Andrea Zanone redpoints SS26 at Gressoney, Italy
Climbing in Italy’s Valle d'Aosta: last Saturday Andrea Zanone repeated SS26, the 8c+ sports climb freed in 2006 by Alberto Gnerro at Gressoney.
New mixed climbs in Alaska's Revelation Mountains
26/09/2017 - Alpinism
New mixed climbs in Alaska's Revelation Mountains
Mountaineering in Alaska: in spring 2017 Lithuania’s Gediminas Simutis (28) and Germany's Frieder Wittmann (31) pulled off a series of interesting first ascents above the remote Fish Glacier in the Revelation Mountains. The trip report by Simutis.
Margo Hayes first female ascent of Biographie 9a+ at Céüse
25/09/2017 - Climbing
Margo Hayes first female ascent of Biographie 9a+ at Céüse
Sport climbing: on 24 September 2017 Margo Hayes repeated Biographie 9a+ at Ceuse in France. In doing so the American has made the first female ascent of this mega climb freed by Chris Sharma in 2001.
Spes Ultima Dea, big new Brenta Dolomites rock climb
22/09/2017 - Alpinism
Spes Ultima Dea, big new Brenta Dolomites rock climb
Alessandro Beber reports about the first ascent of 'Spes Ultima Dea', a huge new rock climb up Crozon di Brenta in the Italian Brenta Dolomites, established over three days with Gianni Canale.
Paige Claassen and Iva Vejmolová climb hard at Flatanger in Norway
21/09/2017 - Climbing
Paige Claassen and Iva Vejmolová climb hard at Flatanger in Norway
Sport climbing: a American rock climber Paige Claassen has repeated Eye of Odin 8c+ at Flatanger in Norway, while Iva Vejmolová from the Czech Republic has repeated the 8c Nordic Plumber.
Pirmin Bertle climbs first 9a in Bolivia
20/09/2017 - Climbing
Pirmin Bertle climbs first 9a in Bolivia
At El Eden near Potosì German climber Pirmin Bertle has made the first ascent of 'En este luz te ves como Poseidon', the first 9a sports climb in Bolivia
Adam Ondra, new climbing projects after Silence at Flatanger
19/09/2017 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, new climbing projects after Silence at Flatanger
After having freed the world’s first 9c, Adam Ondra has discovered two new projects at Flatanger in Norway which could be as difficult as 9b+.
Kalymnos, 20 years of rock climbing in Greece
18/09/2017 - Climbing
Kalymnos, 20 years of rock climbing in Greece
The small island of Kalymnos in Greece, without a doubt one world's premier sport climbing destinations, celebrates 20 years of rock climbing holidays.
Aladaglar Turkey, first repeat of Nessuno by Aktuyun and Yalcın
17/09/2017 - Alpinism
Aladaglar Turkey, first repeat of Nessuno by Aktuyun and Yalcın
Zorbey Aktuyun reports about the first repeat of Nessuno (8a+, 470 m) carried out with Muammer Yalcın in the Aladaglar massif in Turkey.
Beat Kammerlander frees Kampfzone, a rare climbing gem in the Rätikon
15/09/2017 - Climbing
Beat Kammerlander frees Kampfzone, a rare climbing gem in the Rätikon
Interview with Austrian climber Beat Kammerlander after the first free ascent of his alpine sports climb Kampfzone (8c) in the Rätikon massif.
Chris Sharma catches his Big Fish, spectacular and difficult new Deep Water Solo at Mallorca
14/09/2017 - Climbing
Chris Sharma catches his Big Fish, spectacular and difficult new Deep Water Solo at Mallorca
At Mallorca in Spain American rock climber Chris Sharma has made the first ascent of Big Fish, an extremely high Deep Water Solo (DWS) climb rated 8c+/9a.
Anak Verhoeven claims 9a+ first female ascent at Pierrot Beach in France
13/09/2017 - Climbing
Anak Verhoeven claims 9a+ first female ascent at Pierrot Beach in France
Belgium's Anak Verhoeven has made the first ascent of 'Sweet Neuf' at Pierrot Beach in France, a sports climb she believes is 9a+. Should the grade be confirmed, Verhoeven becomes only the second woman to have climbed 9a+ and the first to have freed a route of this difficulty.
Larcher and Marazzi free Così parlò Zarathustra in Vallone di Sea, Italy
12/09/2017 - Climbing
Larcher and Marazzi free Così parlò Zarathustra in Vallone di Sea, Italy
On 28 July 2017 Jacopo Larcher and Paolo Marazzi made the first free ascent of Così parlò Zarathustra, a A3 aid climb in Vallone di Sea established in 1983 by Isidoro Meneghin and Daniele Caneparo.
Spaniards claim two new climbs and one first free ascent in Peru
10/09/2017 - Alpinism
Spaniards claim two new climbs and one first free ascent in Peru
The brothers Iker Pou and Eneko Pou, together with Manu Ponce and Pedro Galán, have made the first ascent of two new rock climbs in Peru: Yaku Mama (7a+ / 185 m) next to the Gocta Falls in Amazonia, and Zerain 8a / 860 m in the valley of Quebrada...

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