2921 News found

Alpinism: on 7/12/2016 Enrico Bonino and Olivier Colay made a dry-tooling reinterpretation of the routes Pinelli-Sabbadini, Lenoir and Ottoz, to forge El Chico (M6+ 4° 250m) on Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc massif.

Alessandro Lamberti (52) reports about his recent repeat of the 8c sports climb Egger at Spiaggia Della Molpa at Palinuro, Italy.

The climbing video by Mike Hutton of Englishman Tom Randall taking a huge lob on the Crucifix project he and Pete Whittaker discovered at the White Rim, Canyonlands, USA

Alessio Tait introduces the stunning crag Malga Spora at Croz of Giovan. Another little sport climbing gem in the Brenta Dolomites.

On 23 December 2016 on the Drei Zinnen / Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz completed a beautiful winter trilogy by climbing Via Comici-Dimai up Cima Grande (in 2:30), Via Cassin up Cima Ovest (in 3:25), and Spigolo Giallo up Cima Piccola (in 1:28). The South...

Big wall climbing: interview with South Tyrol’s Jacopo Larcher who last autumn, together with Barbara Zangerl made the third free ascent of Free Zodiac up the SE Face of El Capitan, Yosemite.

On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.

Valdo Chilese reports about the highball boulder problem Rokaloka (8A+), first ascended last September on the Orkaloka boulder in Valle di Daone, Italy.

Ice climbing: in February 2016 the Austrian alpinists Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner established a flurry of new ice climbs in Iceland, including Tröll leikhus at Austurárdalur, currently the hardest on the island.

The report by Vittorio Messini who together with Isidor Poppeller and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of 'Mehr denn je Hintersee' (800m, M7+ WI6+ 08/12/2016), a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Hochbirghöhe (2767m), High Tauern, Austria.

Interview with British alpinist Tom Ballard after the first ascent of ‘Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 2000m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland), first ascended together with Marcin Tomaszewski from 29 November to 6 December 2016.

The trailer of South Tyrol’s Angelika Rainer repeating the ice and mixed climb The Mustang at Vail in Colorado, USA.

At Fontainebleau in France Melissa Le Nevé has sent her first 8B boulder problem while Charles Albert, climbing barefoot, has made the first ascent of the 8C problem La révolutionnaire.

Mountaineering: from 29 November to 6 December 2016 Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski made the first ascent of 'Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 1800m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland).

Interview with Italian climber Silvio Reffo who recently repeated two of Sardinia’s most difficult multi-pitch sport climbs: Hotel Supramonte at Gola di Gorropu and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco at Punta Giradili. Climbing onsight, on both routes Reffo fell just once and freed the pitches on his second attempt.

At the start of September 2016 Slovakian climber Jozef Kristoffy made the first free ascent of Corona 11- on Jastrabia veza, the hardest multi-pitch rock climb in the High Tatras.