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Everest in winter / First attempt failed. Alex Txikon & Co return to Base Camp
12/02/2017 - Alpinism
Everest in winter / First attempt failed. Alex Txikon & Co return to Base Camp
14/02/2017: The mountaineers attempting to climb Everest in winter without supplementary oxygen have returned to Base Camp. Alex Txikon, Nurbu Sherpa and Cheppal Sherpa had reached South Col at 7950m but were forced to descend due to high winds. 12/02/2017: The Everest winter expedition without supplementary oxygen led by Alex...
Everest in winter / Alex Txikon & Co start summit bid
10/02/2017 - Alpinism
Everest in winter / Alex Txikon & Co start summit bid
The Spanish expedition led by Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon to climb Everest in winter and without supplementary oxygen has begun in earnest. A weather window is forecast for 14 to 18 February 2017.
Ötztal Freizeitstress ice climb established in Austria by Hansjörg Auer and Reinhard Obweger
10/02/2017 - Alpinism
Ötztal Freizeitstress ice climb established in Austria by Hansjörg Auer and Reinhard Obweger
On 19/01/2017 Hansjörg Auer and Reinhard Obweger made the first ascent of Freizeitstress, a new mixed climb in Ötztal, Austria.
Montenegro: most difficult icefall climbed in Tara canyon
08/02/2017 - Alpinism
Montenegro: most difficult icefall climbed in Tara canyon
A mixed team of climbers from Montenegro and Serbia, comprised of Nikola Đurić, Dušan Branković, Dušan Starinac, Danilo Pot and Ivan Laković, recently climbed the two highest frozen waterfalls in Montenegro: Strast (WI5+, 150m) and Mali zec (WI4, 150m) in the Tara canyon close to Dobrilovina. Laković provides the report.
Patagonia Cerro Murallón, new East Face climb by Ragni di Lecco
07/02/2017 - Alpinism
Patagonia Cerro Murallón, new East Face climb by Ragni di Lecco
Mountaineering: Italian alpinists Matteo Bernasconi, Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci have made the first ascent of the East Face of Cerro Murallon (Patagonia). This is the second Ragni di Lecco success after the historic first ascent, carried out by Casimiro Ferrari, Carlo Aldè and Paolo Vitali.
Brenta Dolomites La Stangata / A great ice climb in Val Genova
07/02/2017 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites La Stangata / A great ice climb in Val Genova
In Val Genova (Brenta Dolomites) Luca Tamburini and Giorgio Tameni made a rare repeat of the beautiful and enormous icefall La Stangata, first climbed in 2012 by Patrick Ghezzi and Alessandro Lucchi.
Eiger Metanoia video of Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli repeat
05/02/2017 - Alpinism
Eiger Metanoia video of Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli repeat
Winter mountaineering: the video of the first repeat of Metanoia, carried out in December 2016 by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli, 25 years after the first ascent at the hands of Jeff Lowe in 1991.
Troll Wall, first solo winter ascent by Marek Raganowicz in Norway
02/02/2017 - Alpinism
Troll Wall, first solo winter ascent by Marek Raganowicz in Norway
Interview with Polish alpinist Marek Raganowicz who, from 11 - 26 January 2017, made the first solo winter ascent of Troll Wall (Trollveggen) in Norway by repeating the climb Suser gjennom Harryland (6/A3).
Ortler Pleishornwasserfall ice climb first ascent video
02/02/2017 - Alpinism
Ortler Pleishornwasserfall ice climb first ascent video
Alpinism: the video documenting the first ascent of Pleishornwasserfall, the new ice and mixed climb established on 13/12/2016 by Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayer up the NE Face of Ortler (3905m).
Romano Benet and Tine Cuder control Hysteria, a new icefall in Val Raccolana
01/02/2017 - Alpinism
Romano Benet and Tine Cuder control Hysteria, a new icefall in Val Raccolana
Winter mountaineering: first ascent video and interview with Romano Benet who, with Slovenia's Tine Cuder, made the first ascent of the new icefall Hysteria at Rio Vandul in Val Raccolana (Italy).
Vanessa robe neire, new mixed climb in Valle dell’Orco
30/01/2017 - Alpinism
Vanessa robe neire, new mixed climb in Valle dell’Orco
Winter mountaineering in Italy’s Piedmont region: in Valle Orco Marco Appino and Umberto Bado, together with David Sacchetti, completed Vanessa neire robe, a mixed climb they had begun in 2010. Umberto Bado provides the report.
Michi Wohlleben frees Stirb langsam, huge mixed climb in Austria
27/01/2017 - Alpinism
Michi Wohlleben frees Stirb langsam, huge mixed climb in Austria
Alpinism: on 18/01/2017 German alpinist Michi Wohlleben, climbing with Lukas Binder, made the first ascent of 'Stirb langsam' (M11+/WI6+, 200m) a difficult new ice and mixed climb in the Wetterstein massif, Tyrol, Austria.
Peričnik, one of the most spectacular ice climbs in Slovenia
27/01/2017 - Alpinism
Peričnik, one of the most spectacular ice climbs in Slovenia
World-class alpinist Aleš Česen introduces Slap Peričnik, the famous waterfall below Mt. Triglav. In winter this transforms into one of the most spectacular icefalls in Slovenia and an unforgettable experience for all ice climbers.
Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
21/01/2017 - Alpinism
Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
On Wednesday evening Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias passed away in Trieste. The acclaimed Italian alpinist, writer and theater director was an academic of the Italian Alpine Club and, for three decades, president of GISM, the Italian Group of Mountain Writers. With him Italian mountaineering, and not only, looses a great...
Dolomites drytooling: Dariusz Sokołowski traces A Line Above The Sky
20/01/2017 - Alpinism
Dolomites drytooling: Dariusz Sokołowski traces A Line Above The Sky
In December 2016 Poland’s Dariusz Sokołowski repeated A Line Above The Sky, one of the most difficult drytooling climbs in the world, freed at Tomorrow's World in the Dolomites by Britain’s Tom Ballard in 2016.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter trilogy by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
19/01/2017 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter trilogy by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
Winter mountaineering: on 31/12/2016 at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites the alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini climbed in a singole day Via Comici-Dimai on Cima Grande (in 1:45), the Cassin route up Cima Ovest (2:45) and the Innerkofler route up Cima Piccola (1:15).

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