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Michael Kemeter climbing the crux on pitch 5 of Tortour (8c, 280m), Schartenspitze, Austria
Photo by Frank Kretschmann
Michael Kemeter climbing pitch 4 of Tortour (8c, 280m), Schartenspitze
Photo by Frank Kretschmann
Michael Kemeter making the first ascent of Tortour (8c, 280m), Schartenspitze
Photo by Frank Kretschmann
Schartenspitze, Austria
Photo by Frank Kretschmann

Michael Kemeter completes his Tortour up Schartenspitze in Austria

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On the SW Face of Schartenspitze in Austria Michael Kemeter has made the first free ascent of Tortour, the difficult multi-pitch alpine outing he established ground-up between 2011 and 2012.

Last summer Austrian climber Michael Kemeter freed his hardest ever multi-pitch alpine rock climb, namely Tortour up the SW Face of Schartenspitze in Austria. The 280 m high route offers steep, technical climbing and was established ground-up between 2010 and 2011 together with Stefan Lieb. Nine attempts were needed to reach the summit, pushing the Austrian not only physically, but also into a state where he was "mentally at my limit."

The two central pitches weigh in at 8b+ and 8c respectively, but at the time the idea of freeing the roof on pitch five seemed absolutely impossible. '"I accompanied each move mentally for years" explained Kemeter '"And I yearned to get good enough to finally climb the entire line free and in a single day."

On 15 June, after another 10 days on the route accompanied by Paul Kiefer, Kemeter finally but an end to his Tortour. Estimated difficulties: 8c max.

Tortour, Schartenspitze, Austria
8c, 280 m
6a+, 7a+/b, 7a+, 8b+, 8c, 7c, 6a+, 7b+
First ascent: 2011- summer 2012 with Stefan Lieb: ground-up with no previous knowledge of the line
First free ascent: 15 June 2017 with Paul Kiefer
Gear: 12 quickdraws, Cams BD 0,5 & 0,75

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NEWS / Related news:
Alpinstil, new multi-pitch climb on Telendos, Kalymnos
08.06.2015
Alpinstil, new multi-pitch climb on Telendos, Kalymnos
In May 2015 Michael Kemeter, Jürgen Reinmüller and Roger Schäli made the first ascent of Alpinstil (7c+, 135m), a new multi-pitch climb route on the island of Telendos in Kalymnos, Greece.

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