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Magic Mushroom: Jacopo Larcher, Barbara Zangerl and the magical big wall on El Capitan
26/06/2018 - Interviews
Magic Mushroom: Jacopo Larcher, Barbara Zangerl and the magical big wall on El Capitan
Interview with Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl after their first repeat of Magic Mushroom on El Capitan in Yosemite, carried out in December 2017.
Rock climbing in Jordan: new rock climbs at Wadi Sulam
12/06/2018 - Climbing
Rock climbing in Jordan: new rock climbs at Wadi Sulam
Maurizio Oviglia reports about an expedition of the Italian Alpine Club and the JTB (Jordan Tourism Board) which resulted in series of new climbs in the unexplored area of ​​Wadi Sulam in Jordan. Expedition members included Maurizio Giordani, Manrico Dell'Agnola, Andrea Cattarossi, Marco Scagnetto, Luca Schiera, Umberto Del Vecchio, Erik...
Shkhara South Face, new route and first winter ascent in Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze
29/03/2018 - Alpinism
Shkhara South Face, new route and first winter ascent in Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze
In February 2018 Georgian mountaineers Archil Badriashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze climbed alpine style for 8 days to establish a new route up Mt. Shkhara (5,203 m), Georgia. In doing so they also made the first winter ascent of the mountain’s 2300 m high South Face.
Ice climbing Dolomites: the unknown ice climb up Torre Vitty
18/12/2017 - Alpinism
Ice climbing Dolomites: the unknown ice climb up Torre Vitty
Ice climbing in the Dolomites: an unknown ice climb, highly recommended by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher, up Torre Vitty in the Sella massif.
Johnny Dawes walks up The Devil's Slide on Lundy
30/11/2017 - Climbing
Johnny Dawes walks up The Devil's Slide on Lundy
The short film 'A walk on the wild slide' by David Linnett featuring Johnny Dawes, one of the UK's most brilliant and influential rock climbers, walking up the ultra-classic The Devil's Slide on Lundy Island, UK.
Keita Kurakami free climbs The Nose on El Capitan
16/11/2017 - Climbing
Keita Kurakami free climbs The Nose on El Capitan
Japanese rock climber Keita Kurakami has made a free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan (Yosemite, USA). This is only the 5th free ascent of the monumental big wall.
Charles Albert frees Fontainebleau's first 8C+
10/11/2017 - Climbing
Charles Albert frees Fontainebleau's first 8C+
French climber Charles Albert has freed the extension to La Révolutionnaire, suggesting 8C+. If confirmed, this becomes the first problem in Fontainebleau (France) to be graded 8C+ and also one of the hardest boulder problems in the world.
Midnight Lightning: Filippo Manca explores the legendary Ron Kauk boulder problem in Yosemite
06/11/2017 - Climbing
Midnight Lightning: Filippo Manca explores the legendary Ron Kauk boulder problem in Yosemite
Filippo Manca talks about his bouldering trip to America where, in Yosemite, he managed to repeat the legendary Midnight Lightning boulder problem. Moments later he encountered American climbing legend Ron Kauk who, in 1978, made the first ascent of what has transformed into one of the most famous boulder problems...
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
09/08/2017 - Climbing
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
A legend, a desire destined to remain a dream for most climbers: this is what the Kosterlitz crack in Valle dell'Orco represented to the Italian climbing scene in the ’70’s and ’80’s after having been first ascended in the early 1970’s by Scotland’s Mike Kosterlitz. The 2016 Nobel Prize in...
Torre Trieste, Via Cassin - Ratti and never-ending beauty
28/07/2017 - Alpinism
Torre Trieste, Via Cassin - Ratti and never-ending beauty
Manrico Dell'Agnola introduces in photos and writing the Torre Trieste tower in the Civetta group of the Dolomites and the route first ascended by Riccardo Cassin and Vittorio Ratti up the SE arête. Dating back to 1935, this is considered one of the most classic, beautiful and famous alpine outings...
Charles Albert climbs Monkey Wedding 8C barefoot at Rocklands
16/07/2017 - Climbing
Charles Albert climbs Monkey Wedding 8C barefoot at Rocklands
The video of French climber Charles Albert repeating the 8C boulder problem Monkey Wedding at Rocklands barefoot. Alexander Megos repeated this 2002 Fred Nicole test piece in just 30 minutes.
C'était demain, the first 8A boulder problem in Fontainebleau
22/06/2017 - Climbing
C'était demain, the first 8A boulder problem in Fontainebleau
The series The Classics | Boulder introduces C'était demain, the famous first 8A boulder problem at Fontainebleau in France. Jakob Schubert and Anna Stöhr attempt to repeat the bloc first climbed in the cradle of bouldering by French climbing champion Jacky Godoffe back in 1984.
Aaron Durogati and the unmissable, ever-changing air of Red Bull X-Alps 2017
20/06/2017 - Interviews
Aaron Durogati and the unmissable, ever-changing air of Red Bull X-Alps 2017
Interview with paragliding champion Aaron Durogati who on 2 July will lift off from Salzburg in Austria and take part in his third Red Bull X-Alps, the 1100km race by paraglider or on foot across the Alps all the way to Monte Carlo.
Why Alex Honnold's Free Solo of El Cap Scared Me. By Tommy Caldwell
16/06/2017 - Climbing
Why Alex Honnold's Free Solo of El Cap Scared Me. By Tommy Caldwell
We have kindly received permission by both Outside Magazine and Tommy Caldwell to republish Caldwell's article about Alex Honnold and his incredible first free solo of El Capitan (Yosemite Valley, USA) via the climb Freerider.
Alex Honnold, the free solo beyond the norm
06/06/2017 - Climbing
Alex Honnold, the free solo beyond the norm
Rock climbing beyond the limits: thoughts about the scope of Alex Honnold's recent free solo ascent of Freerider on El Capitan (Yosemite).
Melloblocco 2017: Individually, Together
15/05/2017 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2017: Individually, Together
Melloblocco 2017 seen through the eyes of Maurizio Panseri. After having climbed in Val Masino and Val di Mello for 30 years, the Italian alpinist now took part in this, his first-ever, grand bouldering meeting.