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Melloblocco in Tour 2018: Cresciano, one of most famous bouldering areas in the world
20/04/2018 - Interviews
Melloblocco in Tour 2018: Cresciano, one of most famous bouldering areas in the world
In the run-up to Melloblocco 2018 that will take place from 3 to 6 May 2018 at Cresciano and Lugano we interviewed Claudio Cameroni, one of the first climbers who helped develop the Swiss bouldering area in the ‘90s in order to find out how Cresciano became one of most...
Alaska: new British route on Mt. Jezebel by Tom Livingstone and Uisdean Hawthorn
19/04/2018 - Alpinism
Alaska: new British route on Mt. Jezebel by Tom Livingstone and Uisdean Hawthorn
British mountaineers Tom Livingstone and Uisdean Hawthorn have made the first ascent of Fun or Fear, a new climb up the East face of Mt. Jezebel in the Revelations range of Alaska. Climbed alpine style over two days, the route breaches difficulties up to M6+, 90 deg neve, Ai6 R.
Video: Steve McClure climbing Britain's hardest sport route, Rainman 9b at Malham Cove
18/04/2018 - Climbing
Video: Steve McClure climbing Britain's hardest sport route, Rainman 9b at Malham Cove
The video of Steve McClure climbing Rainman at Malham Cove in England. Freed on 04/06/2017, this is the first sports climb in Great Britain to graded 9b.
Sonia Livanos, goodbye to a great alpinist and woman
18/04/2018 - Alpinism
Sonia Livanos, goodbye to a great alpinist and woman
French alpinist Sonia Livanos passed away on 15 April 2018 in Marseilles hospital at the age of 95. In the '50s and' 60s together with her husband Georges Livanos she formed one of the strongest climbing partnerships in the Dolomites and beyond.
The Nose Speed time lapse featuring Brad Gobright, Jim Reynolds
17/04/2018 - Climbing
The Nose Speed time lapse featuring Brad Gobright, Jim Reynolds
The time-lapse documentary of the record-breaking speed ascent of The Nose up El Capitan in Yosemite, climbed in 2:19:44 on 21 October 2017 by Jim Reynolds and Brad Gobright.
Sébastien Bouin adds one of France’s hardest sport climbs to Russan
11/04/2018 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin adds one of France’s hardest sport climbs to Russan
At the French crag Russan (Pont St Nicholas-Seynes) Seb Bouin has made the first ascent of 'Les yeux plus gros que l’antre'. 70 meters long and graded 9a+/9b, this is now one of the most difficult sport climbs in France.
Young Nemuel Feurle masters Prinzip Hoffnung
04/04/2018 - Climbing
Young Nemuel Feurle masters Prinzip Hoffnung
16-year-old Austrian climber Nemuel Feurle has repeated Prinzip Hoffnung, the difficult trad climb freed by Beat Kammerlander on the Bürser Platte in Vorarlberg, Austria in 2009.
Rocca Miloro, sport climbing in Italy's Val di Susa
03/04/2018 - Climbing
Rocca Miloro, sport climbing in Italy's Val di Susa
The crag Rocca Miloro in Val di Susa, Piedmont, Italy, introduced by Maurizio Oviglia. Little known, this offers about twenty routes up to 7c + and interesting climbing on beautiful gneiss.
Sachi Amma climbs Japan's first 9b
31/03/2018 - Climbing
Sachi Amma climbs Japan's first 9b
At Gozen Rock in Japan Sachi Amma has made the first ascent his Soul Mate. Graded 9b, this is now the country’s most difficult sport climb.
Shkhara South Face, new route and first winter ascent in Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze
29/03/2018 - Alpinism
Shkhara South Face, new route and first winter ascent in Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze
In February 2018 Georgian mountaineers Archil Badriashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze climbed alpine style for 8 days to establish a new route up Mt. Shkhara (5,203 m), Georgia. In doing so they also made the first winter ascent of the mountain’s 2300 m high South Face.
David Lama solo first ascent of Hohe Kirche Nord Pfeiler in Valsertal
27/03/2018 - Alpinism
David Lama solo first ascent of Hohe Kirche Nord Pfeiler in Valsertal
On 24/03/2018 Austrian alpinist David Lama made the solo first ascent of Nord Pfeiler, a new mixed climb up the North Face of Hohe Kirche in Valsertal, Austria.
Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner climb new ice in Iceland
23/03/2018 - Alpinism
Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner climb new ice in Iceland
In Iceland the Austrian alpinists Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have made the first ascent of the new mixed climb Shelter of the gods M10.
Niccolò Ceria climbs one of Italy's most beautiful boulder problems at Pietra del Toro
22/03/2018 - Climbing
Niccolò Ceria climbs one of Italy's most beautiful boulder problems at Pietra del Toro
At Pietra del Toro in Basilicata Niccolò Ceria has made the first ascent of Goemon, describing the line as one of the most beautiful boulder problems in Italy.
Germans climb new route up Aguja Val Biois in Patagonia
21/03/2018 - Alpinism
Germans climb new route up Aguja Val Biois in Patagonia
On January 15th 2018 Tom Ehrig, Felix Getzlaff and Lutz Zybell climbed the new route La Torcida (450m, 12 pitches, 7a M) up Aguja Val Biois in Patagonia. Tom Ehrig reports.
Burian in Valle di Cogne, new mixed climb by Matteo Giglio and François Cazzanelli
20/03/2018 - Alpinism
Burian in Valle di Cogne, new mixed climb by Matteo Giglio and François Cazzanelli
The report by Matteo Giglio who teamed up with François Cazzanelli to make the first ascent of a mixed climb called Burian (150 m, WI5 R M8) up the Paretone di Chevril face in Valle di Cogne, Valle d’Aosta, Italy.
Matteo Della Bordella talks King Kong up Cerro Riso Patrón Sur in Patagonia, climbed with Silvan Schüpbach
19/03/2018 - Alpinism
Matteo Della Bordella talks King Kong up Cerro Riso Patrón Sur in Patagonia, climbed with Silvan Schüpbach
Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella reports about the first ascent of King Kong, the new mixed climb up Cerro Riso Patrón Sur established last February during a 22-day 'by fair means' climbing expedition with Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach. The two mountaineers travelled to one of the most isolated areas of Patagonia by...