3903 News found

Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb CRAM (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.

Roundup of recent redpoints at Margalef, Siurana and Perles in Spain by the Italian climbers Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati and Marco Zanone. In addition, noteworthy attempts at Saint Loup in Switzerland by Riccardo Scarian and Alessandro Zeni.

In October 2018 Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus made what is likely to be the first ascent of Sharphu II (6328m) in Nepal's Kangchenjunga region. The route climbs the mountain’s east face, was climbed alpine style over a six-day period and has been called Saṃsāra (ED2 AI5 M6).

On 31/12/2018 at Santa Linya in Spain the 19-year-old Czech climber Jakub Konečný redpointed Catxasa, his first 9a+ sports climb.

Winter climbing in the Brenta Dolomites: on 19 December 2018 Tomas Franchini, climbing solo, made the first ascent of Solo il Matto up Spallone dei Massodì (3004m).

The film Zabardast directed by Jérôme Tanon that documents a trip into the heart of the Karakorum to explore the potential for freeride skiing in Pakistan. The highlight was the ski descent of 5880m high Biacherahi. With Thomas Delfino, Léo Taillefer, Zak Mills, Yannick Graziani and Hélias Millerioux.

Austrian climber Jakob Schubert has made the first repeat of Neanderthal, the 9b sports climb put up by Chris Sharma in 2009 at the Santa Linya in Spain.

On 16 December 2018 Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner made the first ascent of Utopia, a new mixed climb close to Rein in Taufers in Italy.

Interview with the 23-year-old Italian climber Lorenzo Puri, who recently climbed his 100th boulder problem graded 8A or harder.

In Langental / Vallunga Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer have made the first ascent of Sonnentanz (WI5+ M7+ 260m), a mixed climb above Val Gardena, Dolomites.

On 14 December 2018 Gianni Canale, Demis Lorenzi and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Filo d’Ambiez ( AI, VI-, 350m), a direct line up the NW Face of Cima d’Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.

At Margalef in Spain, Basque climber Iker Pou has made the first ascent of Artaburu, his hardest sport climb to date.

planetmountain.com has received and is publishing the press release of the Italian Mountain Guides regarding the Bearded Vulture in Valnontey (Cogne). Ice climbing is currently prohibited on the Money summit plateau and the adjacent icefalls: L’ago di Money, Di fianco alla leggenda, Repentance super, La volpe e l’uva, Monday Money,...

Jacopo Pellizzari introduces Siamo fuori dal Tunnel, a new mixed climb first ascended with Mauro Mabboni on 2 and 5 December 2018 up the West Face of Cima Grostè (Brenta Dolomites).

Interview with Stefano Ghisolfi after his repeat of Perfecto Mundo, the 9b+ at Margalef in Spain considered one of the most difficult sport climbs in the world. After Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma and Alexander Megos, the 25-year-old climber from Italy is now only the fourth climber to master these difficulties.

Ice climbing in the Dolomites: in Langental, Dolomites, Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer have made the first ascent of Teufelsgeige (125m, WI5+, M6), a new mixed climb circa 30 meters to the right of the classic icefall Piovra.