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Eiger speed record by Dani Arnold
22/04/2011 - Alpinism
Eiger speed record by Dani Arnold
On 20/04/2011 Dani Arnold from Switzerland climbed the Heckmair route up the North Face of the EIger in 2 hours 28 minutes, setting a new speed record up this historic line.
Hervé Barmasse, the new Matterhorn route and the exploration of the Alps
22/04/2011 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, the new Matterhorn route and the exploration of the Alps
On 9 April, after 4 days on the wall and three bivvies, Hervé Barmasse reached the summit of Picco Muzio via a new 700m route up the great pillar located on the South Face. This is the first stage in a trilogy to explore the Alps during which Barmasse plans...
Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
19/04/2011 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
Two Piolets d'Or were awarded on 15 April in Chamonix, France, during the IXX Piolet d'Or 2011: to the Greenland Big Walls by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Bob Shepton and to the ascent up Mount Logan in Canada by Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama from...
Ueli Steck top speed solo on Shisha Pangma
18/04/2011 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck top speed solo on Shisha Pangma
On 17/04/2011 Swissman Ueli Steck ascended Shisha Pangma (8027m), Tibet in record time.
Piolet d'Or 2011: Mount Logan and Greenland Big Walls the winners
16/04/2011 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2011: Mount Logan and Greenland Big Walls the winners
Two prizes awarded last night in Chamonix during the IXX Piolet d'Or: Mount Logan in Canada by Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama, and the Big Walls in Greenland by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas and Olivier Favresse and Ben Ditto.
Piolet d'Or 2011, the program
07/04/2011 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2011, the program
The program of the IXX Piolet d'Or which will be held in Courmayeur and Chamonix (Mont Blanc) from 13 - 16 April 2011. All the awards, conferences, lectures and debates of one of the most important mountaineering events in the world.
New ice climbs in Norway
30/03/2011 - Alpinism
New ice climbs in Norway
Details of the latest ice climbing trip to Norway by Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner who in mid February established a series of new routes together with Gerry Fiegl e Paul Mair.
Piolet d'Or 2011: the nominations, Doug Scott receives Lifetime Achievement, and all the evenings
21/03/2011 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2011: the nominations, Doug Scott receives Lifetime Achievement, and all the evenings
The IXX Piolet d'Or will take place from 13 - 16 April 2011 at Courmayeur and Chamonix (Mont Blanc). Six ascents are in the running for the golden ice axe, while the great British mountaineer Doug Scott will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award. Details of the evening dedicated to Extra-Ordinary...
Godzilla IX/8, new Scotland desperate by Bullock, Benson and Robertson
19/03/2011 - Alpinism
Godzilla IX/8, new Scotland desperate by Bullock, Benson and Robertson
On 14/03/2011 British alpinists Nick Bullock, Pete Benson and Guy Robertson established Godzilla IX/8 on Beinn Bhàn, Scotland
Piantobaldo, new route on Monte Presolana in memory of Camos and Piantoni
16/03/2011 - Alpinism
Piantobaldo, new route on Monte Presolana in memory of Camos and Piantoni
On 11/03/2011 Yuri Parimbelli, Tito Arosio and Ennio Spiranelli carried out the first ascent of Piantobaldo (600m, WI 4 M7 A1) up the NW Face of the Western Presolana and dedicated their route to the late Bruno "Camos" Tassi and Roby Piantoni.
Golden Eagle, first free ascent in Patagonia
09/03/2011 - Alpinism
Golden Eagle, first free ascent in Patagonia
Raoul Martinez, Sean Villanueva, Cintia Percivati and have carried out the first free ascent of Golden Eagle (7a/7a+, 700m), established by Alexander Huber and Stephan Siegrist in 2006 on Aguja Desmochada, Patagonia.
Fabio Valseschini, interview after the first winter solo on Civetta
28/02/2011 - Interviews
Fabio Valseschini, interview after the first winter solo on Civetta
Fabio Valseschini talks about his recent great winter solo ascent of the Via dei 5 di Valmadrera up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites), as well as his alpinism and his love for the mountains.
Washington Route, new climb on Fitz Roy, Patagonia by Schaefer and Rutherford
24/02/2011 - Alpinism
Washington Route, new climb on Fitz Roy, Patagonia by Schaefer and Rutherford
American climbers Michael Schaefer and Kate Rutherford have established the Washington Route (VI, 5.10, A1) on Fitz Roy, Patagonia.
Coda, new route on Aguja Desmochada, Patagonia
15/02/2011 - Alpinism
Coda, new route on Aguja Desmochada, Patagonia
On 9-10 February 2011 Neil Kauffman and Josh Wharton established Coda (V 5.11+ AO) on Aguja Desmochada, Fitz Roy massif, Patagonia.
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, descent to Base Camp with avalanche for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
04/02/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, descent to Base Camp with avalanche for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards have now reached Base Camp after an arduous descent during which they were hit by an avalanche. This historic first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (8035m, Karakorum, Pakistan) now draws to a close.
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, Moro, Urubko and Richards reach Camp 1
03/02/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, Moro, Urubko and Richards reach Camp 1
After yesterday's historic first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (8035m, Karakorum, Pakistan), Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards have now descended from Camp 3 to Camp 1.

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