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Gasherbrum II, historic first winter ascent: summit for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
02/02/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II, historic first winter ascent: summit for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
At 11:28 local time Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards reached the summit of Gasherbrum II. This is the first winter ascent of the 13th highest mountain in the world, a historic climb which is also the first winter ascent of one of the five 8000ers located in Pakistan.
Gasherbrum II in winter: Moro, Urubko and Richards poised for summit push
01/02/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: Moro, Urubko and Richards poised for summit push
Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards plan to set off from their Camp 3 at 6900m tonight for their first attempt at reaching the summit of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan).
Aiguilles du Brouillard Couloir south-west first ski descent
Aiguilles du Brouillard Couloir south-west first ski descent
On 17/01/2011 Davide Capozzi, Luca Rolli, Roch Malnuit, Laurent Dupré and Lionel Hachemy made the first descent of the SW Couloir on Aiguilles du Brouillard (P.ta Saviotti), Mont Blanc
Cerro Pollone East, first ascent in Patagonia by Kauffman and Toman
21/01/2011 - Alpinism
Cerro Pollone East, first ascent in Patagonia by Kauffman and Toman
At the start of January 2011 the American alpinists Neil Kauffman and Jim Toman carried out the first ascent of Cerro Pollone East (Patagonia) by climbing Re Puesto! (V 800m 5.10 A1).
Francek Knez and Silvo Karo, Slovenian Order of Merit for alpinism
18/01/2011 - Events
Francek Knez and Silvo Karo, Slovenian Order of Merit for alpinism
On 22 December 2010 the Slovenian alpinists Francek Knez and Silvo Karo were awarded the Order of Merit by Slovenia's President Dr. Danilo Tuerk. This high state decoration was confirmed on the pair for "their achievements in Slovenian mountain climbing and for their contributions to the reputation of Slovenian mountaineering...
Jardines Japoneses, new route on Aguja Mermoz, Patagonia
08/01/2011 - Alpinism
Jardines Japoneses, new route on Aguja Mermoz, Patagonia
American alpinists Colin Haley, Mikey Schaefer and Jens Holsten have established 'Jardines Japoneses', (650m AI4 M5 5.10 A1) on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia.
Vilhauer and Kauffman establish Night Terror on Lobuche East, Nepal
23/12/2010 - Alpinism
Vilhauer and Kauffman establish Night Terror on Lobuche East, Nepal
The Americans Joel Kauffman and Jarad Vilhauer have established Night Terror (VI WI5+ AI4 M7 85°), a stunning line up Lobuche East (6119m), Nepal.
Winter climbing action in Scotland
15/12/2010 - Alpinism
Winter climbing action in Scotland
With the British Isles gripped by cold weather, the winter climbing season in Scotland is now in full swing.
Rosso 70, awarded at the Bansko Film Festival
09/12/2010 - Alpinism
Rosso 70, awarded at the Bansko Film Festival
Rosso 70, the film directed by Francesco Mansutti and Vinicio Stefanello and which retraces the 70 yera mountaineering history f the Scoiattoli mountaineering club in Cortina, has won the Jury's Special Prize during the Bulgaria's X° International Mountain Film Festival in Bansko
Accidents in the Himalaya and helicopter rescues
30/11/2010 - Alpinism
Accidents in the Himalaya and helicopter rescues
Simone Moro discusses helicopter rescues in the Himalaya, starting with the accident on Ama Dablam which cost the lives of two of his friends, the pilot Sabin Basnyat and the rescue operator Purna Awale, on a mission to rescue the alpinists David Göttler and Hiraide Kazuya.
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
25/11/2010 - Interviews
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
Interview with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, two months prior to his next expedition to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan) together with Denis Urubko.
Patagonia, Holzknecht and Moroder climb Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre
19/11/2010 - Alpinism
Patagonia, Holzknecht and Moroder climb Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre
In Patagonia Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder have climbed Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre in rapid alpine style. In the meantime Rolando Garibotti has removed 17 bolts from Cerro Torre placed last year by the team headed by David Lama.
Piolet d'or Asia won by Okada and Katsutake. Hasegawa wins lifetime achievement award.
09/11/2010 - Alpinism
Piolet d'or Asia won by Okada and Katsutake. Hasegawa wins lifetime achievement award.
On 22/10/2010 in Korea's capital Seoul the Japanese alpinists Yasushi Okada and Katsutake Yokoyama won the fifth edition of the Piolet d'or Asia, while the lifetime achievement award went to their fellow countryman Tsuneo Hasegawa.
Fourteen times Edurne Pasaban
07/11/2010 - Interviews
Fourteen times Edurne Pasaban
Interview with Edurne Pasaban, the Basque alpinist who has climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
07/11/2010 - Alpinism
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola Tondini.
Adam Ondra is Tough Enough on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
16/10/2010 - Climbing
Adam Ondra is Tough Enough on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
Adam Ondra has carried out the first free ascent in a single day of Tough Enough (8c, 380m) on the East Face of Karambony in Tsaranoro Valley, Madagascar. He concluded his trip by repeating Bravo les Filles (8b, 600m) and making the first free ascent of Mora Mora (8c, 700m).

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