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James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...
Titanium climbing bolts appeal by Maurizio Oviglia for Sardinia's seaside crags
28/12/2020 - Climbing
Titanium climbing bolts appeal by Maurizio Oviglia for Sardinia's seaside crags
Italian climber and new router Maurizio Oviglia once again focuses on the safety of climbing bolts and anchors on sport climbs in seaside environments and has launched a campaign to raise funds in order to re-bolt some marine crags in Sardinia with titanium bolts.
James Pearson repeats Harder, Faster while Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Gaia at Black Rocks
27/12/2020 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Harder, Faster while Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Gaia at Black Rocks
At Black Rocks in England James Pearson has repeated the extremely dangerous gritstone testpiece Harder, Faster while his wife Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated Gaia. Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, while Ciavaldini claims the third female ascent.
New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland
26/12/2020 - Alpinism
New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland
On Church Buttress at Bidean nam Bian in Glen Coe, Scotland, Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson have made the first ascent of New Age Raiders, an impressively steep 2-pitch winter climb graded IX 9.
Video: Nico Favresse, Sean Villanueva climbing El Flechazo up Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia
25/12/2020 - Alpinism
Video: Nico Favresse, Sean Villanueva climbing El Flechazo up Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia
The video of the first ascent of El Flechazo on Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia, established by Belgian mountaineers Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll in February 2020 with two bivouacs.
Winter 8000 by Bernadette McDonald
24/12/2020 - Book-press
Winter 8000 by Bernadette McDonald
Winter 8000: Climbing the World's Highest Mountains in the Coldest Season by award-winning author Bernadette McDonald. The best-selling mountaineering book, the most complete analysis of winter climbing in the Himalayas, finalist of all the most important international mountain literature awards.
Ski Mountaineering World Cup: Nicolini, Gachet Mollaret, Anselmet and Fatton win in Ponte di Legno
Ski Mountaineering World Cup: Nicolini, Gachet Mollaret, Anselmet and Fatton win in Ponte di Legno
The first stage of the 2020/2021 Ski Mountaineering World Cup took place last weekend in Ponte di Legno, Italy. The Sprint race was won by Marianne Fatton and Thibault Anselmet while the Vertical Race was dominated by Axelle Gachet Mollaret and Federico Nicolini.
Angela Eiter frees Madame Ching in Austria
18/12/2020 - Climbing
Angela Eiter frees Madame Ching in Austria
Above Imst in Austria Angela Eiter has made the first ascent of Madame Ching, her most difficult first ascent to date.
François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti in the film Along Our Skyline and live interview
17/12/2020 - Alpinism
François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti in the film Along Our Skyline and live interview
Watch the film Along Our Skyline which documents the first winter linkup of the Furggen chain, the Matterhorn and the Grandes Murailles and Petites Murailles mountain chains carried out by François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti in January 2020. The two mountaineers will be interviewed live this evening at 21:00 on...
Gran Couloir della Levannetta climbed above Valle dell’Orco
15/12/2020 - Alpinism
Gran Couloir della Levannetta climbed above Valle dell’Orco
In October 2020 mountain guides Umberto Bado and Giancarlo Maritano made the first ascent of Gran Couloir della Levannetta, a new mixed climb on the north face of Levannetta above Valle Orco, Italy.
Goodbye Doug Scott
07/12/2020 - Alpinism
Goodbye Doug Scott
British mountaineer Doug Scott passed away today. Aged 79, he was recognised as one of the greatest mountaineers of all times.
Manuel Baumgartner, Simon Kehrer climb new ice in the Dolomites
07/12/2020 - Alpinism
Manuel Baumgartner, Simon Kehrer climb new ice in the Dolomites
On 28/11/2020 the two mountain guides Manuel Baumgartner and Simon Kehrer made the first ascent of Aurona, a new mixed climb up the north face of Sas dle Diesc (Sasso delle Dieci), Fanes, Dolomites. Baumgartner reports.
Nicolai Užnik sends Bügeleisen sit, 8C in Maltatal, Austria
05/12/2020 - Climbing
Nicolai Užnik sends Bügeleisen sit, 8C in Maltatal, Austria
Bügeleisen sit in the Maltatal has been repeated by Nicolai Uznik. This 8C boulder problem was first climbed in 2014 by Nalle Hukkataival and has been repeated by Jakob Schubert and Stefan Scarperi.
Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach follow their instincts on Pizzo Badile
01/12/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach follow their instincts on Pizzo Badile
Alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach have climbed Crossway of Friendship on the northeast face of Pizzo Badile. This variation is dedicated to the late Matteo Bernasconi.
Federica Mingolla frees Angels and Demons in Valle Orco
30/11/2020 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla frees Angels and Demons in Valle Orco
On Caporal in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Federica Mingolla has made the first free ascent of 'Angels and Demons', the multi-pitch rock climb started by Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina 15 years ago Mingolla completed the route with Leonardo Gheza before freeing it with Simone Papalia. Her report, as well as...
Alaska's autumn nets two big new climbs in Hayes Range
26/11/2020 - Alpinism
Alaska's autumn nets two big new climbs in Hayes Range
Benjamin Lieber reports about two big new climbs ascended in Alaska’s Hayes Range: DeWilde Style (800m AI4+) up the SE Face of Peak 9,250ft with Alex Hansen and Longing For Light (700m AI5) on the NE Shoulder of Mount Moffit climbed above the Trident Glacier with Hansen and Austin Schmitz.