Home page Planetmountain.com
François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti and Marco Farina celebrating the first ascent of L’amitié on the South Face of the Matterhorn, September 2021
Photo by archivio François Cazzanelli
Matterhorn South Face: François Cazzanelli making the first ascent of L’amitié
Photo by archivio François Cazzanelli
Matterhorn South Face: François Cazzanelli making the first ascent of L’amitié
Photo by archivio François Cazzanelli
Matterhorn South Face and the line of L’amitié established by François Cazzanelli, Marco Farina and Francesco Ratti and dedicated to Roberto Ferraris.
Photo by archivio François Cazzanelli

New Matterhorn South Face route by François Cazzanelli, Marco Farina, Francesco Ratti

by

Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Marco Farina and Francesco Ratti have established L’amitié, a new route on the south face of the Matterhorn dedicated to Roberto Ferraris.

On 11 and 12 September an Italian trio comprised of François Cazzanelli, Marco Farina and Francesco Ratti made the first ascent of L’amitié up the south face of the Matterhorn. The new route has been dedicated to Roberto Ferraris, a friend of theirs who died prematurely in winter 2019. The new line tackles 16 pitches past difficulties up to 6c, with two pitches still to be freed, ideally in September conditions permitting.

On his facebook page Cazzanelli, who with Ferraris, Farina, Ratti and Emrik Favre established Diretta allo Scudo on Matterhorn’s South Face in 2018, said:

"This new route, in addition to being simply stupendous, has an equally beautiful story behind it. During our mountain guides course, Francesco Ratti, Marco Farina and I came up with the idea of ​​dedicating a route to our close friend Roberto Ferraris. Where? It was obvious! On the south face of the Matterhorn, where we had all had some great adventures together. After carefully studying the wall we discovered a compact shield of rock to the left of Pilastro di Fiori. This pillar is slightly more pronounced and features an obvious, overhanging red prow at the top.
Once we’d decided on what to climb, all we needed to do was find the right moment without commitments and good weather. No mean task especially because the weather this summer was quite unstable and a thousand commitments all overlapped! Finally on 11-12 September during two foggy days we managed to establish L’Amitié 650 . 16 pitches 6c obligatory? Max. The name didn’t come about by chance. Amitié serves as a reminder of the friendship that bound us to Roby and it was this that prompted us to grit our teeth to complete this project. The route tops out on a small ridge that connects the pillar to the south face. We have decided to rename this pillar Pilastro Roberto Ferrari."

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Matterhorn Bonatti route repeated by Matteo Della Bordella, François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti
02.04.2021
Matterhorn Bonatti route repeated by Matteo Della Bordella, François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti
On 31 March 2021 Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti repeated the Bonatti route on the Matterhorn.

Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
24.09.2018
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
Matterhorn climbing: on the mountain’s South Face the Italian François Cazzanelli has completed Diretta allo Scudo, a new rock climb he established with Roberto Ferraris, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre and Marco Farina.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.
INFO
The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.
NEWSLETTER

SUBSCRIBE to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer