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Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas
22/11/2018 - Alpinism
Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas
At the end of October 2018 Spanish mountaineers Pablo Ruix (Blín), Jesús Ibarz and Edu Recio established a new route up Langdung (6357 m) above the Rolwaling valley in Nepal. Ibarz reports about their Bihâna (6c+, 1500 m, ED+).
Connor Herson, 15, free climbs The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite
21/11/2018 - Climbing
Connor Herson, 15, free climbs The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite
Connor Herson has made a free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite. Climbing with his father Jim Herson over a three-day period, Connor is one of the few climbers to achieve this feat. Aged only 15, he is also the youngest person to free climb The Nose.
Keita Kurakami climbs The Nose on El Capitan free and rope solo
20/11/2018 - Climbing
Keita Kurakami climbs The Nose on El Capitan free and rope solo
Climbing solo and self-belayed for five days, Japan’s Keita Kurakami has repeated The Nose on El Capitan (Yosemite, USA). This is the first time that the route freed in 1993 by Lynn Hill has been climbed rope solo all free.
Alessandro Zeni frees his Cosmic Energy, a possible 9a+ at Bilico, Dolomites
19/11/2018 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni frees his Cosmic Energy, a possible 9a+ at Bilico, Dolomites
At the crag Bilico (Primiero, Dolomites) Alessandro Zeni has made the first ascent of Energia Cosmica, Cosmic Energy, a sports climb the 27-year-old has now tentatively graded 9a+.
Adam Ondra on the road to the Salathé Wall in Yosemite / VBlog #4
19/11/2018 - Climbing
Adam Ondra on the road to the Salathé Wall in Yosemite / VBlog #4
Czech climber Adam Ondra on the road to the Salathé Wall up El Capitan in Yosemite, USA, is the theme of the fourth episode of Ondra’s fourth VBlog
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
16/11/2018 - Alpinism
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
Italian alpinist Maurizio Giordani reports about his climbing expedition to Pakistan during which, with Massimo Faletti, he completed a stylish ascent of Water World, a beautiful and difficult big wall up the hitherto unclimbed Kiris Peak (5428m). The other expedition members included Manrico Dell’Agnola, Antonella Giacomin, Cristiano Marinello, Andrea Peron,...
Stefan Scarperi does Action Directe in Frankenjura
13/11/2018 - Climbing
Stefan Scarperi does Action Directe in Frankenjura
On 2 November 2018 Stefan Scarperi repeated Action Directe 9a in Frankenjura. He is the third Italian to repeat the legendary route established by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 after Gabriele Moroni and Stefano Carnati.
Adam Ondra onsights Just Do It at Smith Rock, America’s first 8c+
12/11/2018 - Climbing
Adam Ondra onsights Just Do It at Smith Rock, America’s first 8c+
Czech climber Adam Ondra has made an onsight ascent of Just Do It, the first 5.14c (8c+) in the USA located at Smith Rock, freed by French climber Jean-Baptiste Tribout in 1992.
Carlo Traversi repeats Meltdown, the Beth Rodden masterpiece in Yosemite
09/11/2018 - Climbing
Carlo Traversi repeats Meltdown, the Beth Rodden masterpiece in Yosemite
American climber Carlo Traversi has made the first repeat of Meltdown (5.14c) in Yosemite, first ascended in 2008 by Beth Rodden.
Patagonia El Faro climbed by Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan
07/11/2018 - Alpinism
Patagonia El Faro climbed by Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan
In Patagonia close to Cerro San Lorenzo alpinists Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan have made the first ascent of a previously unclimbed tower. Called El Faro, it was climbed alpine style via their new route La Milagrosa (1200m, A3, M7, 6a).
Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven tick Tainted Love at Squamish in Canada
06/11/2018 - Climbing
Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven tick Tainted Love at Squamish in Canada
Austria's Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven from the Netherlands have both repeated Tainted Love, the 5.13d crack climb located on The Chief above Squamish, Canada freed by Hazel Findlay in 2017.
Daniel Woods resolves his Box Therapy 8C+ in Rocky Mountains
01/11/2018 - Climbing
Daniel Woods resolves his Box Therapy 8C+ in Rocky Mountains
American climber Daniel Woods has made the first ascent of Box Therapy, an 8C+ boulder problem in the Rocky Mountain National Park, USA.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Punta Frida: a first ascent in the Dolomites
30/10/2018 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Punta Frida: a first ascent in the Dolomites
Czech alpinist Michal Coubal reports about a first ascent, carried out with Aja Coubalova up Punta Frida, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites: The Lights from the other World.
Jernej and Julia Kruder cruise Mallorca’s Deep Water Solo
29/10/2018 - Climbing
Jernej and Julia Kruder cruise Mallorca’s Deep Water Solo
Jernej Kruder and his sister Julia from Slovenia have made a series of difficult DWS deep water solo ascents on the island of Mallorca, Spain.
Big Dutch climbs in Kyrgyzstan Djangart Range
26/10/2018 - Alpinism
Big Dutch climbs in Kyrgyzstan Djangart Range
In the Djangart Range in Kyrgyzstan, last summer a Dutch mountaineering expedition comprised of Noël Diepens, Line van den Berg, Wout Martens, Rik van Odenhoven, Mats Wentholt, Jorian Bakker, Court Haegens and Boris Textor carried out a series of notable new climbs.
Kilian Fischhuber and Co climb Siberia’s Sundrun Pillars
24/10/2018 - Climbing
Kilian Fischhuber and Co climb Siberia’s Sundrun Pillars
Kilian Fischhuber, Robert Leistner and Galya Terenteva have made a series of first ascents up the Sundrun Pillars, Ulakhan-Sis in Siberia.

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