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Bepino on Cima Uomo in the Brenta Dolomites by Michele Cagol, Rolando Larcher
18/10/2021 - Alpinism
Bepino on Cima Uomo in the Brenta Dolomites by Michele Cagol, Rolando Larcher
Rolando Larcher and Michele Cagol have made the first ascent of Bepino, a new multi-pitch rock climb on the west face of Cima Uomo (2543m) in the Brenta Dolomites to remember their father-in-law Giuseppe Deavi. The route was subsequently freed by Bepino's nephew and Rolando's son, Alessandro Larcher. The three...
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
08/10/2021 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
The 2021 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be awarded in November at Briançon, France, to Pierrick Fine and Symon Welfringer for their ascent of Sani Pakkush and Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn for their ascent of Mount Robson. Catalan climber Silvia Vidal has received a special mention.
Saraghrar and Languta-e-Barfi climbed in Hindu Kush by Georgian expedition
27/09/2021 - Alpinism
Saraghrar and Languta-e-Barfi climbed in Hindu Kush by Georgian expedition
A small Georgian expedition comprised of Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze has made two interesting ascents in the Rosh Gol valley in Pakistan: the first ascent of the Northwest summit of Saraghrar 7,303m and the third ascent of Languta-e-Barfi 6,833m.
Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer attempt Praqpa Ri in Karakorum
20/09/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer attempt Praqpa Ri in Karakorum
Simon Messner reports about his August 2021 attempt with Martin Sieberer to climb Praqpa Ri (7.134m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan.
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
16/08/2021 - Alpinism
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
Dmitrii Panov reports about a Russian summer 2020 climbing expedition to Peak Kart and Peak Mechta, situated in the South Muysky Ridge area of Siberia. During the 20-day expedition the climbers forged 8 new routes, made the first ascents of 8 mountains and completed 2 ridge traverses.
Big Fighter climbed on Chaupi Huanca in Peru by Álex González, Jaume Peiró
07/07/2021 - Alpinism
Big Fighter climbed on Chaupi Huanca in Peru by Álex González, Jaume Peiró
Jaume Peiró and Álex González have completed the first ascent of Big Fighter (8a+? (6c/A2), 750m), on the Northern arete of Chaupi Huanca in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru.
Mount Everest Centenary Exhibition launched by Alpine Club in London
24/06/2021 - Events
Mount Everest Centenary Exhibition launched by Alpine Club in London
The Alpine Club has opened its landmark exhibition 'Everest: By Those Who Were There' to the public. The exhibition commemorates 100 years since the first expedition to Mount Everest in 1921, and explores, in intimate detail, the three Alpine Club and Royal Geographical Society expeditions of the 1920s.
Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
20/05/2021 - Alpinism
Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
Czech alpinists Zdeněk Hák and Jaroslava Bánský have successfully completed the first traverse of Kangchung Shar (6030m) in Nepal. They climbed the north face of the mountain into the saddle between Kangchung Shar and Cholo, then followed the NW ridge to the top, returned to the saddle and descended the...
Alex Txikon, a Manaslu winter attempt and his mountaineering
31/03/2021 - Alpinism
Alex Txikon, a Manaslu winter attempt and his mountaineering
Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon recently returned from an attempt to climb Manaslu in winter. An expedition which ended without the hoped-for success but which, once again, teaches us to 'find more important goals than the summit.'
Nubra Valley Ice Climbing Festival in India
19/02/2021 - Alpinism
Nubra Valley Ice Climbing Festival in India
The report about the first Ice Climbing Meeting that took place in January in the wonderful Nubra Valley, India. This event proved to be important, above all because it’s the first of its kind in the Ladakh region. The report by Ladakh Nomad expeditions.
Sean Villanueva and the magical Moonwalk Traverse of Fitz Roy skyline solo in Patagonia
15/02/2021 - Interviews
Sean Villanueva and the magical Moonwalk Traverse of Fitz Roy skyline solo in Patagonia
Interview with Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll after the Fitz Roy Traverse in Patagonia, carried out solo from 5 to 10 February and christened the Moonwalk Traverse by the Belgian mountaineer. This is only the second time that the iconic skyline of Patagonia has been climbed in its entirety in a single...
Nirmal Purja climbed K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen
18/01/2021 - Alpinism
Nirmal Purja climbed K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen
Nepalese mountaineer Nirmal Purja has reported that he climbed K2 in winter without the use of supplementary oxygen.
K2, all 10 summiters of historic first winter ascent safely back in base camp
17/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2, all 10 summiters of historic first winter ascent safely back in base camp
All ten Nepalese mountaineers who climbed K2 for the first time in winter yesterday have returned safely to base camp. The news was announced by expedition leader Chhang Dawa Sherpa.
K2 in winter, decisive phase begins in earnest
15/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter, decisive phase begins in earnest
The attempt to climb K2 in winter is entering the decisive moments, with Camp 4 installed at 7800 meters by the various Sherpa teams led by Nirmal Purja, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and Seven Summit Treks.
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
14/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
12/01/2021 - Alpinism
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
The 5726m high pyramidal Luza Peak in the Khumbu region of the Nepal was climbed for the first time at the end of 2020 by a young trio of Sherpa comprised of Pemba Sharwa Sherpa, Urken Sherpa and Lhakpa Gyaljen Sherpa. Pemba Sherpa reports about the ascent and gives interesting...

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