218 News found

French mountaineer Catherine Destivelle will become the first woman to receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland in September. In the past the coveted prize has been awarded to greatest mountaineers of all times.

Marco Sappa has repeated the famous Digital Crack, first ascended in 1990 by Thierry Renault and Alain Ghersen on the Grand Gendarme of the Arête des Cosmiques in the Mont Blanc massif. The Italian mountain guide reports.

The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2019. From this they will select the recipients of the Piolets d'Or award that will be celebrated during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland, from 11 to 22...

On Monday 25 May 2020 the Italian mountain guide Edmond Joyeusaz skied from the summit of Mont Blanc down the Comino - Grassi route on the Brenva face, following the line first ascended in 1979 by Gianni Comino and Gian Carlo Grassi.

Marco Sappa reports about the first ascent of La Fessura di Gianfri, a difficult trad crack climb at the historic crag Nid Des Hirondelles in Valgrisenche, Valle d’Aosta, Italy. The route is dedicated to his father Gianfranco Sappa, a courmayeur Mountain Guide, who perished in a climbing accident in 2019.

The docu-film Chris Bonington - Life and Climbs (2015, 22 minutes) is now online. Directed by Vinicio Stefanello for the Municipality of courmayeur, in this film great British mountaineer tells his life story.

The Planpincieux glacier on the Italian side of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc) is at risk of collapsing. The road into Val Ferret has been closed. And yet it seems as if nothing awakens us.

The two mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl have carried out an extremely fast ascent of the Peutérey Integral Ridge in the Mont Blanc massif in just 12 hours and 12 minutes. The round-trip back to the starting point at the La Sorgente campsite in Val Veny, Italy, required...

In September 2019 the Polish mountaineer Krzysztof Wielicki will receive the Piolets d'Or Carrière 2019. In the past this prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington, Wojciech Kurtyka, Jeff Lowe and Andrej Štremfelj.

Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini has successfully made a solo ascent of the hitherto unclimbed East Face of Lamo She, a 6070m peak in China.

Ezio Marlier introduces the modern mixed climb Miss No which he first ascended with Elisabetta Ceaglio up the NE Face of La Vierge du Flambeau (3244m), Mont Blanc massif in April 2017.

From 17- 19 February 2019 young French alpinists Xavier Cailhol and Symon Welfringer made a winter ascent of Divine Providence up Grand Pilier d’Angle, one of the most famous routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

Ezio Marlier introduces Million Reasons and Sole, two modern mixed climbs on the East Face of Aiguille de la Brenva in the Mont Blanc massif, established with Gianpaolo Ducly.

On Tuesday 19 February the French alpinists Léo Billon, Sébastien Ratel and Benjamin Védrines carried out a one-day winter ascent of the Cassin route up the Walker Spur on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. A few hours later, Switzerland’s Caro North and Argentinia’s Carlos Molina also completed the...

Roundup of recent redpoints at Margalef, Siurana and Perles in Spain by the Italian climbers Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati and Marco Zanone. In addition, noteworthy attempts at Saint Loup in Switzerland by Riccardo Scarian and Alessandro Zeni.

The report by Italian mountaineer Anna Torretta who with Cecilia Buil from Spain and Ixchel Foord from Mexico made the first ascent of Couloir SW (600m, A1, 6a, M5), a new climb up the virgin Mugu Peaks (5467 meters) in the Karnali district of NW Nepal.