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La linea dei Sogni at Erto by Luca Zardini
02/04/2009 - Climbing
La linea dei Sogni at Erto by Luca Zardini
On 14/03/2009 Luca Zardini carried out the first ascent of "La linea dei Sogni" (8c+), the extension to the legendary "Sogni di Gloria" at Erto (Italy).
Adam Ondra climbing at Angelone and Cornalba
25/03/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra climbing at Angelone and Cornalba
On 20 March 16 year old Adam Ondra made the first ascents of Riti Tribali 8c+ and Nonono 8c at Angelone, while on 21 March at Cornalba he repeated Les Sindacalistes 8c+ second go before onsighting Outsider (8a+). Adam Ondra's full report and thoughts about his Italian holiday.
Scotland winter climbing update
13/03/2009 - Alpinism
Scotland winter climbing update
Andy Turner and Tony Stone have carried out the first winter ascent of Sassenach on Ben Nevis and Ueli Steck has repeated The Secret. Ian Parnell and Andy Turner then carry out the first ascent of Bruised Violet (VIII,7,8,8,8,7) on Beinn Eighe.
The Norwegian Alpine Club and the ethics for climbing in Norway
11/03/2009 - Alpinism
The Norwegian Alpine Club and the ethics for climbing in Norway
With reference to the latest ascents by Robert Jasper in Norway, the Norsk Tindeklub (Norwegian Alpine Club) has now published an official statement guidelining climbing ethics in Norway. The German climber also provides his point of view.
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
09/03/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
Repentance was first climbed in Cogne, Valle d'Aosta in 1989 by François Damilano, Fulvio Conta and Giancarlo Grassi and soon became the symbol of a new ice climbing era in the Alps. Twenty years after the first ascent Damilano and Conta joined forces once again to repeat the route. Elio...
Cochamo Valley Chile: new climbs by Austrian dream team
05/03/2009 - Alpinism
Cochamo Valley Chile: new climbs by Austrian dream team
In December 2008 the Austrians David Lama, Barbara Bacher, Katharina Saurwein, Hansjörg Auer, Heiko Wilhelm and Dutchman Jorg Verhoeven travelled to Cochamo Valley in Chile and climbed a series of new routes in this granite valley.
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
02/03/2009 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.
Spain sport climbing: Margalef access problems and Adam Ondra & Daila Ojeda in Oliana
26/02/2009 - Climbing
Spain sport climbing: Margalef access problems and Adam Ondra & Daila Ojeda in Oliana
At Oliana, Spain, Adam Ondra repeats Papichulo 9a+ and Daila Ojeda makes the first ascent of China Crisis 8b+. Margalef refuge owner Jordi Pou warns that irrespective behaviour may result in sectors being banned.
ISPO Munich 2009. What crisis?
10/02/2009 - Events
ISPO Munich 2009. What crisis?
Last Wednesday the ISPO Winter 2009, the largest outdoor trade show in the world, drew to a successful end for both exhibitors and visitors. In the following article we attempt to analyse the current state of new products and the "anti-crisis" trend.
David Firnenburg climbs 8c at Margalef aged 13
05/02/2009 - Climbing
David Firnenburg climbs 8c at Margalef aged 13
Thirteen year old David Firnenburg from Germany has climbed his first 8c, L'espiedimonis at Margalef, Spain.
Alex Honnold climbing interview
27/01/2009 - Interviews
Alex Honnold climbing interview
Interview with Alex Honnold, the American climber who burst into international limelight with his solos in America and hard extremes on Britain's gritstone.
Bishop bouldering: Kevin Jorgeson frees Ambrosia at the Buttermilks
09/01/2009 - Climbing
Bishop bouldering: Kevin Jorgeson frees Ambrosia at the Buttermilks
Kevin Jorgeson from America has made the first ascent of the super highball 'Ambrosia' at the Buttermilks, Bishop and the first repeat of Luminance V11.
Lead World Cup 2008 to Johanna Ernst and Jorg Verhoeven
18/11/2008 - Competitions
Lead World Cup 2008 to Johanna Ernst and Jorg Verhoeven
The sixth and final stage of the Lead World Cup 2008 took place in Slovenia's Kranj last weekend and was won by Johanna Ernst from Austria, ahead of Maja Vidmar and Akiyo Noguchi. Klemen Becan from Slovenia won the men's event, ahead of Jorg Verhoeven and Patxi Usobiaga. Ernst and...
Climbing at Positano, Amalfi coast, Italy
17/11/2008 - Climbing
Climbing at Positano, Amalfi coast, Italy
Climbers have whispered about the sport climbing potential on the enchanting Amalfi Coast for many years. Cristiano Bacci now reveals the secrets around Montepertuso, close to Positano.
Alexander Huber interview
30/10/2008 - Interviews
Alexander Huber interview
Interview with German climber Alexander Huber, one of the world's most important sport climbers and mountaineers.
Adam Ondra, Hotel Supramonte, Sardinia and the climbing game
30/10/2008 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, Hotel Supramonte, Sardinia and the climbing game
Adam Ondra and his holidays in Sardinia, where he managed the first ever on-sight of "Hotel Supramonte" before making the first ascent of "Campo con corvi" 9a at Bronx.