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Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
12/04/2010 - Events
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur.
Adam Ondra, Goldrake 9a+ at Cornalba
07/04/2010 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, Goldrake 9a+ at Cornalba
17-year-old Adam Ondra has carried out the first ascent of Goldrake 9a+, a route bolted by Bruno "Camos" Tassi years ago at Cornalba, Italy.
Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
30/03/2010 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
The Piolet d'Or 2010 will take place from 8 - 10 April in the towns of Courmayeur and Chamonix with a series of conferences, debates, films, meetings and other cultural activities. The event begins on Thursday 8 April in Courmayeur with an evening dedicated to young climbing partnerships...
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
30/03/2010 - Alpinism
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
On 13 March 2010 Marco and Hervé Barmasse established a new route up the South Face of the Matterhorn. Their 1220m line solves one of the "problems" up the massive "Becca" face, attempted by numerous climbers in the past. The exclusive interview with Hervé Barmasse.
Takargo first ascent by Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb
15/03/2010 - Alpinism
Takargo first ascent by Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb
Americans Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb have made the first ascent of Takargo (6771 meters) via its East Face in Nepal.
Ice climbing in Scotland – an Ines Papert perspective
09/03/2010 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Scotland – an Ines Papert perspective
German climber Ines Papert provides her report and views of British winter climbing after her first ice climbing trip to Scotland.
Adam Ondra interview
02/03/2010 - Climbing
Adam Ondra interview
Interview with Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic after his his January and February climbs which resulted in two 8c and one 8b+ on-sights on the same day in Claret, France, as well as a host of first ascents at Madonna della Rota, Italy
Iker Pou climbing interview
26/02/2010 - Interviews
Iker Pou climbing interview
Iker Pou from Spain is one of the world's most talented rock climbers, with cutting-edge climbs spanning from 9a+ at the crag to 8a at 6000 meters. In this interview he shares his climbing thoughts after his repeat of Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef.
Simon Anthamatten interview
08/02/2010 - Interviews
Simon Anthamatten interview
Ellade Ossola interviews Swiss alpinist and mountain guide Simon Anthamatten, a key player in the mountaineering world with important ascents to his name which have their roots in his desire to maintain an "independent" alpinism.
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett climb big ice at the Helmcken Falls, Canada
02/02/2010 - Alpinism
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett climb big ice at the Helmcken Falls, Canada
Will Gadd from Canada teamed up with Tim Emmett from Britain to carry out the first ascent of Spray On, a 30m ice climb at the Helmcken Falls they tentatively graded WI10.
Reinhold Messner interview
27/01/2010 - Interviews
Reinhold Messner interview
Reinhold Messner, his life and alpinism beyond the 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.
Ouray Ice Festival 2010
17/01/2010 - Events
Ouray Ice Festival 2010
The fifteenth international Ice Festival took place in Ouray (USA) a fortnight ago. The event attracted thousands of ice climbers and the competition was won by Josh Wharton (USA) and Ines Papert (GER). Will Gadd from Canada climbed almost 8000m of vertical ice in a 24 hour non-stop marathon to...
Ice World Cup 2010, Kirov and Valle di Daone
15/01/2010 - Competitions
Ice World Cup 2010, Kirov and Valle di Daone
The best ice climbers in the world will gather in Valle di Daone (Trentino) this weekend for the second stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2010. The athletes to beat are Angelika Rainer from Italy and Markus Bendler from Austria, winner of the first stage last weekend in Kirov,...
Roby project 8c/9a?
05/01/2010 - Climbing
Roby project 8c/9a?
It all took place at Terlago in Valle del Sarca, a stone's throw from Arco, Italy. But the story Manolo tells about this project which no longer exists could perhaps have taken place at any old crag...
Krakow Mountain Festival
04/01/2010 - Events
Krakow Mountain Festival
Dorota Dubicka takes a look at the event which took place in Poland at the strat of December and attracted over 5000 visitors.
Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
24/12/2009 - Climbing
Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
One day Heinz opened two new routes in Valle San Nicolò (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) and 22 years later he gave the route to Mario, who freed them. This is the story of "Alice e l'imperatore" and "Basic Instinct", told by Heinz Mariacher and Mario Prinoth.

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