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Mathew Wright repeats Hubble, the Ben Moon masterpiece at Raven Tor
02/10/2020 - Interviews
Mathew Wright repeats Hubble, the Ben Moon masterpiece at Raven Tor
22-year old British rock climber Mathew Wright has made a rare ascent of Hubble, the Ben Moon masterpiece at Raven Tor. First ascended in 1990 and hailed as the world’s first 8c+, this is increasingly considered the world’s first 9a.
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
01/10/2020 - Alpinism
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili and Tepnadze up the NW Face of Ushba. Badriashvili reports.
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer
30/09/2020 - Alpinism
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer
Martin Sieberer reports about his repeats with Hannes Hohenwarter of Locker vom Hocker on Schüsselkar, Tschechenplatte in the Karwendel and Pumprisse in the Wilder Kaiser. Three classic limestone trad climbs in Tyrol, Austria, climbed one day after the next, and reached by train and bike.
Remembering Kurt Albert, German climbing legend and father of the redpoint
28/09/2020 - Climbing
Remembering Kurt Albert, German climbing legend and father of the redpoint
Precisely 10 years ago German climbing legend Kurt Albert died at the age of 56. He invented the redpoint philosophy in Frankenjura in 1975, considered nowadays the standard for sport climbing worldwide, and established numerous important rock climbs and big walls across the globe.
Ang Rita Sherpa, Nepal's legendary Everest mountaineer, passes away
23/09/2020 - Alpinism
Ang Rita Sherpa, Nepal's legendary Everest mountaineer, passes away
Ang Rita Sherpa, the legendary Nepalese mountaineer nicknamed Snow Leopard and famous for having climbed Everest 10 times without the use of supplementary oxygen between 1983 and 1996, passed away yesterday at 72.
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
09/09/2020 - Climbing
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
Maurizio Oviglia introduces a selection of entry-level crack climbs in Valle dell’Orco: Viper, Mamba, Incastromania, Fessura del Tramonto, Fessura Kosterlitz and many others. A step-by-step guide to the trad climbing gems in Valle dell’Orco.
Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford climb E9 in England and Wales
08/09/2020 - Climbing
Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford climb E9 in England and Wales
Britain’s Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford have both repeated an E9 trad route by climbing, respectively, The Final Round at Illam Rock in England and Chupacabra at Pembroke in Wales.
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
02/09/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
The report and words about mountaineering from the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded to the Austrian mountaineer Heinz Mariacher celebrated at Reinhold Messner's Firmian Castle. Mariacher is the eighth alpinist to receive the prestigious award after Messner himself, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Eiger Odyssee climbed in a day by Nicolas Favresse & Sébastien Berthe
01/09/2020 - Alpinism
Eiger Odyssee climbed in a day by Nicolas Favresse & Sébastien Berthe
Belgian climbers Nicolas Favresse and Sébastien Berthe have repeated Odyssee, one of the hardest rock climbs on the North Face of the the Eiger in Switzerland.
Alta infedeltà climbed Sasso delle Undici Marmolada, Dolomites
28/08/2020 - Alpinism
Alta infedeltà climbed Sasso delle Undici Marmolada, Dolomites
Alta infedeltà, High infidelity, is a multi-pitch rock climb established on 22 June 2020 on Sasso delle Undici in Marmolada, Dolomites by the mountain guides Thomas Gianola and Fabrizio Della Rossa. The seven pitch outing breaches difficulties up to VI-.
Laura Rogora climbs 9a in a day, La Prophétie des Grenouilles at Rocher des Brumes
25/08/2020 - Climbing
Laura Rogora climbs 9a in a day, La Prophétie des Grenouilles at Rocher des Brumes
At Rocher des Brumes in France, Italian climber Laura Rogora has sent a 9a sport climb in just one day, La Prophétie des Grenouilles.
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020
24/08/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020
Austrian alpinist Heinz Mariacher is the recipient of the Paul Preuss Award 2020. Mariacher is the eighth mountaineer to receive the prestigious prize after Reinhold Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Laura Rogora, Adam Ondra claim historic victory at Briançon Lead World Cup
23/08/2020 - Competitions
Laura Rogora, Adam Ondra claim historic victory at Briançon Lead World Cup
At Briançon in France Laura Rogora from Italy and Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic won the first and probably only stage of the Lead World Cup 2020. Rogora is only the second Italian woman to win gold in a Lead World Cup stage after Luisa Iovane who won in...
Briançon hosts Climbing World Cup 2020: live streaming today and tomorrow
21/08/2020 - Competitions
Briançon hosts Climbing World Cup 2020: live streaming today and tomorrow
The first and potentially last stage of the 2020 Lead World Cup is currently taking place in Briançon, France, today and tomorrow. Live streaming from today’s semifinals at 19:30 today, and from the finals tomorrow evening at 19.30.
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto
21/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto
Federica Mingolla and Leo Gheza have made the first repeat of Il Giovane Guerriero, Young Warrior, the route established only recently up the east face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo Pasquetto and Luca Moroni. The route was dedicated to Matteo Pasquetto...
Łukasz Dudek makes solo ascent of Pan Aroma on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
19/08/2020 - Alpinism
Łukasz Dudek makes solo ascent of Pan Aroma on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
Polish rock climber Łukasz Dudek has made a rope solo ascent of Pan Aroma, the 550m 8c multi-pitch rock climb on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Italian Dolomites.