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Steve McClure flashes Impact Day, difficult trad climb at Pavey Ark, UK
26/05/2021 - Climbing
Steve McClure flashes Impact Day, difficult trad climb at Pavey Ark, UK
English climber Steve McClure has made a flash ascent of Impact Day, a difficult and somewhat dangerous E8 6c trad route at Pavey Ark in England.
Big new winter climb on Cima Tosa in Brenta Dolomites by Andreozzi, Faletti, Padros
25/05/2021 - Alpinism
Big new winter climb on Cima Tosa in Brenta Dolomites by Andreozzi, Faletti, Padros
Emanuele Andreozzi, Matteo Faletti and Santiago Padrós have made the first ascent of Pazzione Primavernale, a new winter climb up the NNE face of Cima Tosa in the Brenta Dolomites.
The fabulous world of Jenny Fischer
23/05/2021 - Interviews
The fabulous world of Jenny Fischer
Interview by Maurizio Oviglia with American rock climber Jenny Fischer.
Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
20/05/2021 - Alpinism
Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
Czech alpinists Zdeněk Hák and Jaroslava Bánský have successfully completed the first traverse of Kangchung Shar (6030m) in Nepal. They climbed the north face of the mountain into the saddle between Kangchung Shar and Cholo, then followed the NW ridge to the top, returned to the saddle and descended the...
Valle dell'Orco: Jacopo Larcher climbs bold and high with Barbara Zangerl
17/05/2021 - Climbing
Valle dell'Orco: Jacopo Larcher climbs bold and high with Barbara Zangerl
During a quick visit to Piedmont, Italy, Jacopo Larcher completed two important first repeats on the rough granite of Valle dell'Orco: the multi-pitch Angels and Demons on the Caporal with Barbara Zangerl and the highball Grenzenlos.
Heart of Stone on Mount Huntington in Alaska. Luka Lindič reports
11/05/2021 - Alpinism
Heart of Stone on Mount Huntington in Alaska. Luka Lindič reports
Luka Lindič reports about the first ascent, carried out with Ines Papert, of Heart of Stone on Mount Huntington’s West face, Central Denali Range, Alaska in April 2021.
Brittany Goris free climbs Salathé Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite
10/05/2021 - Alpinism
Brittany Goris free climbs Salathé Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite
American rock climber Brittany Goris has made a rare free ascent of the Salathé Wall on El Capitan.
Paul Bonhomme makes first ski descent of Mont Pouzenc West Face
Paul Bonhomme makes first ski descent of Mont Pouzenc West Face
On 04/05/2021 the French mountain guide Paul Bonhomme made the first ski descent of the the West Face of Mont Pouzenc (Embrunais, France).
La Severina, the dream crag at Palinuro in Italy
06/05/2021 - Climbing
La Severina, the dream crag at Palinuro in Italy
Rolando Larcher introduces the splendid crag La Severina close to Palinuro in Campania, Italy. A '40m high overhanging forest of stalactites' developed between 2019 and 2020 that currently boasts 20 routes between 6b and 8c.
Andrzej Bargiel claims first ascent and ski descent of Yawash Sar II in Pakistan
Andrzej Bargiel claims first ascent and ski descent of Yawash Sar II in Pakistan
On 30 April Andrzej Bargiel made the first ascent Yawash Sar II (6178m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Having reached the summit via the west face, the Polish mountaineer then made the mountain’s first ski descent.
Hermann Comploj completes big first ski descent down Col Turont, Dolomites
Hermann Comploj completes big first ski descent down Col Turont, Dolomites
Interview with mountain guide Hermann Comploj who on 24/03/2021 made the first ski descent of the North Couloir on Col Turont (2419m) in Langental / Vallunga, Dolomites, Italy.
Monte Colodri, Arco: Alessandro Beber, Matteo Pavana complete their Opera Buffa
29/04/2021 - Alpinism
Monte Colodri, Arco: Alessandro Beber, Matteo Pavana complete their Opera Buffa
On the east face of Monte Colodri in Arco (Sarca Valley, Italy) Alessandro Beber and Matteo Pavana have established the multi-pitch rock climb Opera Buffa (270m, 7c+). Beber reports.
Rock climbing at Sperlonga featured in Petzl Legend Tour Italy
27/04/2021 - Climbing
Rock climbing at Sperlonga featured in Petzl Legend Tour Italy
After the magnificent limestone crags at Finale Ligure, the second stage of the Petzl Legend Tour Italy stops off at Sperlonga, the hotspot for sport climbing development in Central Italy during the 1980’s.
Brenta Dolomites Cima Margherita - Canale Merzbacher integral ski descent
Brenta Dolomites Cima Margherita - Canale Merzbacher integral ski descent
The report by Andrea Cozzini and Claudio Lanzafame who on 13 March 2021 in the Brenta Dolomites made what is likely to be the first complete ski descent of Cima Margherita face and the Merzbacher gully.
Alexander Megos repeats Margalef’s Mejorando Imagen and proposes 9b
26/04/2021 - Climbing
Alexander Megos repeats Margalef’s Mejorando Imagen and proposes 9b
On 23 March 2021 at Margalef in Spain Alex Megos repeated Mejorando Imagen, a route freed in 2013 by Ramón Julián Puigblanque for which the German climber now proposes 9b instead of the 9a originally put forward by the Spaniard.
Adamello, Busazza, Presanella: three north faces climbed in a day by Leonardo Gheza, Giulia Venturelli
21/04/2021 - Alpinism
Adamello, Busazza, Presanella: three north faces climbed in a day by Leonardo Gheza, Giulia Venturelli
Italian mountaineers Leonardo Gheza and Giulia Venturelli enchained the north faces of Adamello, Cima della Busazza and Presanella in a single day. The 51km outing covered 3700 vertical gain and was completed in 22 hours.