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Janja Garnbret: the first female 8c onsight interview
08/11/2021 - Interviews
Janja Garnbret: the first female 8c onsight interview
Interview with Slovenian rock climber Janja Garnbret who just the other day completed the coveted first female 8c onsight with her ascent of Fish Eye at Oliana in Spain. Two days later she doubled her takings by on sighting the 8c American Hustle.
Jacopo Larcher adds two difficult trad climbs to Valle dell’Orco, Italy
05/11/2021 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher adds two difficult trad climbs to Valle dell’Orco, Italy
The report by Jacopo Lacher who, at the end of October in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, freed the trad climbs ‘Blood Diamond’ at the crag Diamante and an old project of Adriano Trombetta at the base of Sergent, now called Shikantaza (aka. ‘Il progetto Tromba’).
Will Bosi repeats Mutation, 23 years after Steve McClure’s first ascent at Raven Tor
02/11/2021 - Climbing
Will Bosi repeats Mutation, 23 years after Steve McClure’s first ascent at Raven Tor
On 31 October 2021 Scottish climber William Bosi made the long-awaited second ascent of Mutation at Raven Tor. First ascended by Steve McClure in 1998 and originally graded 9a, Bosi has now suggested an upgrade to 9a+.
Nemuel Feurle tames Sangre de Toro on Rote Wand in Austria
01/11/2021 - Alpinism
Nemuel Feurle tames Sangre de Toro on Rote Wand in Austria
Austrian rock climber Nemuel Feurle has repeated Sangre de Toro 8b+ on Rote Wand in Austria.
Matteo Della Bordella, David Bacci free The Pirate in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
29/10/2021 - Climbing
Matteo Della Bordella, David Bacci free The Pirate in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
On the Casetti wall in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci have made the first ascent of Il Pirata (8a max, 160m), a new multipitch dedicated to legendary Italian cyclist Marco Pantani.
Anna Hazelnutt repeats E9 at Dyer's Lookout, UK
25/10/2021 - Climbing
Anna Hazelnutt repeats E9 at Dyer's Lookout, UK
American climber Anna Hazlett has made a daring repeat of Once Upon a Time in the Southwest, a bold E9 6c at Dyer's Lookout, England. Tom Randall, who held her ropes, repeated the route immediately beforehand.
William Bosi blasts boulders in Switzerland
21/10/2021 - Climbing
William Bosi blasts boulders in Switzerland
Scottish climber Will Bosi has made a short but successful climbing trip to Switzerland, during which he repeated a flurry of hard boulder problems including the 8C Foundation’s Edge.
New variation added to Cima Gianni Costantini, Moiazza, Dolomites
20/10/2021 - Alpinism
New variation added to Cima Gianni Costantini, Moiazza, Dolomites
In August the Slovenian alpinists Andrej Grmovšek, Luka Krajnc and Luka Lindič teamed up with local Italian climber Alessandro Baù to add a new variation to the west face of Cima Gianni Costantini in the Moiazza group of the Dolomites.
Jakob Schubert makes first repeat of Alasha, Chris Sharma's extreme Mallorca DWS
15/10/2021 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert makes first repeat of Alasha, Chris Sharma's extreme Mallorca DWS
30-year-old Jakob Schubert has made the first repeat of Alasha, the extremely difficult Deep Water Solo on the island of Mallorca. First ascended by Chris Sharma in 2016, the Austrian climber feels the psicobloc warrants 9a.
Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
12/10/2021 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
The report by Tomas Franchini, currently in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, where he has climbed Nevado Ulta and Nevado Huandoy Norte.
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
08/10/2021 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
The 2021 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be awarded in November at Briançon, France, to Pierrick Fine and Symon Welfringer for their ascent of Sani Pakkush and Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn for their ascent of Mount Robson. Catalan climber Silvia Vidal has received a special mention.
Robbie Phillips, Dave MacLeod climb new E10 at Duntelchaig in Scotland
05/10/2021 - Climbing
Robbie Phillips, Dave MacLeod climb new E10 at Duntelchaig in Scotland
Robbie Phillips has established 'What we do in the shadows’, a new E10 7a which adds a direct finish to Nosferatu at Duntelchaig in Scotland. Shortly after the first ascent Dave MacLeod completed the second ascent.
Stellar Laura Rogora makes first repeat of 9b/+ Erebor at Arco in Italy
03/10/2021 - Climbing
Stellar Laura Rogora makes first repeat of 9b/+ Erebor at Arco in Italy
Laura Rogora has made the first repeat of Erebor at the crag Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco. Graded 9b/+ and established by Stefano Ghisolfi in January 2021, it is considered the most difficult sport climb in Italy. This is the first time a woman has climbed a route...
Voennikh Topografov South Face in Tien Shan climbed by Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev
01/10/2021 - Alpinism
Voennikh Topografov South Face in Tien Shan climbed by Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev
Russian mountaineers Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev have made an alpine-style ascent of the South Face of Voennikh Topografov, aka Military Topographers, at 6873 m the third highest mountain in the Tian-Shan range. Golovchenko reports.
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Grandes Jorasses and complete North6 project
28/09/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Grandes Jorasses and complete North6 project
With the ascent of The Shroud route on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif, Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have completed North6, their project to climb the six most famous north faces of the Alps, traveling from one mountain to the next by bike. The two mountaineers required...
Saraghrar and Languta-e-Barfi climbed in Hindu Kush by Georgian expedition
27/09/2021 - Alpinism
Saraghrar and Languta-e-Barfi climbed in Hindu Kush by Georgian expedition
A small Georgian expedition comprised of Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze has made two interesting ascents in the Rosh Gol valley in Pakistan: the first ascent of the Northwest summit of Saraghrar 7,303m and the third ascent of Languta-e-Barfi 6,833m.

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