Home page Planetmountain.com
Will Bosi repeating Mutation at Raven Tor, UK. First ascended by Steve McClure in 1998 and originally graded 9a, Bosi has now suggested an upgrade to 9a+.
Photo by Band of Birds
Will Bosi repeating Mutation at Raven Tor, UK
Photo by Band of Birds
Will Bosi after his repeat of Mutation at Raven Tor, UK, Sunday 31 October 2021
Photo by Band of Birds
Steve McClure making the first ascent of Mutation at Raven Tor, UK, 14 October 1998
Photo by Keith Sharples Photography www.keithsharplesphotography.co.uk

Will Bosi repeats Mutation, 23 years after Steve McClure’s first ascent at Raven Tor

by

On 31 October 2021 Scottish climber William Bosi made the long-awaited second ascent of Mutation at Raven Tor. First ascended by Steve McClure in 1998 and originally graded 9a, Bosi has now suggested an upgrade to 9a+.


The news is huge: 22-year-old William Bosi from Edinburgh, Scotland, has made the highly anticipated first repeat of Mutation at Raven Tor in England. First ascended by Steve McClure way back in 1998, the line is an extension to the 8c+ Evolution and, graded 9a, it ushered in the next two decades during which McClure was the undisputed driving force behind British sport climbing.

Bosi first started trying the line 4 years ago and finally sent it late on Sunday evening after investing 40 intese sessions. He believes the climb warrants at least 9a+ and not 9a as originally suggested which, for those interested in sport climbing history, opens up interesting scenarios that will need exploring in the future.

Mutation had resisted attempts not due to lack of attention, on the contrary; Raven Tor is an extremely popular sport climbing destination close to Sheffield, famous for its high proportion of strong elite level climbers, and this 23-year hiatus attests to the difficulty of the line.


Bosi commented after his ascent "Finally! This was by far and away my longest project on a route and I am so happy to clip the chains on it. It is so typical of the redpointing game that the route went down on the last go of the day with little expectation that I would send it! Full credit to Steve McClure on an amazing first ascent and for establishing a climb with such amazing moves."

As to the grade, he explained "Honestly, I think I lost all concept of the grade on this one about 20 sessions ago! However, I do know it cannot be 9a as the first half of the route is Evolution and gets 8c+. I sent Evolution in three attempts in the middle of July, in contrast to send just the Mutation extension link took me around five days! So in my head the top half has to be at least 8c+ too…? Now 8c+ into 8c+ definitely doesn’t make 9a. Also to note, I reckon I must have sent Evolution hundreds of times by now which makes it even harder to grade, the bottom only takes about a minute to climb through now also! So is Mutation the world's first 9b? Maybe, time will tell with other ascensionists but I think I will go for 9a+ for now…"

Bosi was not even born when the route was first established on 14 October 1998 by British climbing icon, Steve McClure. "Strong Steve" as he was rightly nicknamed over two decades ago commented on the first repeat "My first reaction when I got the news was 'Awesome!' I was so psyched for Will that he had finally done Mutation. A few years ago, I was really worried that the route was going to gather dust and not see a repeat so it was great when Will opened his account on it. Obviously, I think he took probably longer than he would have wanted on it but for me, the route is at the absolute limit with no margin for error. You need to have the route dialled, be in great shape and have perfect conditions so I am really happy that it all came together for Will!"

TOPO: climbing at the crag Raven Tor, England

Steve McClure climbing Mutation 9a at Raven Tor, UK. Video by Alastair Lee, Posing Productions.

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Raven Tor, rock climbing in the Peak District, England
12.11.2010
Raven Tor, rock climbing in the Peak District, England
Steve McClure, one of Britain's most talented sport climbers, introduces the hallowed ground of English sport climbing: Raven Tor.
William Bosi blasts boulders in Switzerland
21.10.2021
William Bosi blasts boulders in Switzerland
Scottish climber Will Bosi has made a short but successful climbing trip to Switzerland, during which he repeated a flurry of hard boulder problems including the 8C Foundation’s Edge.
Will Bosi repeats Northern Lights, classic 9a at Kilnsey
15.06.2021
Will Bosi repeats Northern Lights, classic 9a at Kilnsey
Scottish climber William Bosi has repeated Northern Lights 9a at Kilnsey, England.
Watch Will Bosi climbing King Capella, his 9b+ at Siurana in Spain
08.04.2021
Watch Will Bosi climbing King Capella, his 9b+ at Siurana in Spain
The video of Scottish climber William Bosi making the first ascent of King Capella, a 9b+ sport climb at Siurana in Spain.
William Bosi makes first ascent of King Capella, new 9b+ at Siurana

29.03.2021
William Bosi makes first ascent of King Capella, new 9b+ at Siurana

22-year-old Scottish climber Will Bosi has made the first ascent of King Capella at Siurana, Spain and has proposed the grade of 9b+.
Will Bosi climbs his first 9b, La Capella at Siurana in Spain
05.02.2020
Will Bosi climbs his first 9b, La Capella at Siurana in Spain
21-year-old William Bosi has climbed La Capella at Siurana in Spain today. In doing so he has sent his first 9b sports climb.
William Bosi repeats Hubble at Raven Tor
13.11.2016
William Bosi repeats Hubble at Raven Tor
On 25 October 2016 William Bosi from Scotland repeated of Hubble, Ben Moon’s 1990 masterpiece at Raven Tor, England

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.
INFO
The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.
NEWSLETTER

SUBSCRIBE to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer