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Trogkofel: new route in Italy's Carnic Alps by Anna & Michal Coubal
19/10/2020 - Alpinism
Trogkofel: new route in Italy's Carnic Alps by Anna & Michal Coubal
On 20-21/08/2020 Czech alpinist Michel Coubal and his daughter Anna Coubalova made the first ascent of The Hour Between Dog and Wolf, a new multi-pitch climb up the north face of Trogkofel / Creta di Aip, Carnic Alps, Italy.
Graham Zimmerman, an Imperfect Advocate
17/10/2020 - Environment
Graham Zimmerman, an Imperfect Advocate
American alpinist Graham Zimmerman, winner of the Piolets d’Or 2020, sees see firsthand the effects of human-driven climate change on the world and decides that he must take action. This forces him to confront his personal carbon footprint to become an Imperfect Advocate.
The King of Fanes added to Col Bechei, Dolomites, by Simon Kehrer, Manuel Baumgartner
16/10/2020 - Alpinism
The King of Fanes added to Col Bechei, Dolomites, by Simon Kehrer, Manuel Baumgartner
The two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of The King of Fanes on the South Face of Col Becchei (Dolomites).
Barbara Zangerl climbs Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco
15/10/2020 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl climbs Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco
Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl has become the first woman to climb Greenspit, the difficult trad route first ascended by Didier Berthod in Valle dell’Orco, Italy.
Glen Denny, the Golden Age of Yosemite photographer
14/10/2020 - Climbing
Glen Denny, the Golden Age of Yosemite photographer
The video tribute to Glen Denny, the American climber and photographer who captured through his images the Golden Age of rock climbing in Yosemite National Park, by the American Alpine Club Legacy Series.
New Karwendel plaisir climbs on Unterer Spitzhüttenkopf
13/10/2020 - Climbing
New Karwendel plaisir climbs on Unterer Spitzhüttenkopf
On Unterer Spitzhüttenkopf in the Karwendel massif, Austria, Peter Manhartsberger and Stephan Weckschmied have made the first ascent of four short plaisir climbs: Zeugungsschmerz (IV, 75m), Schwere Geburt (IV-, 100m), Y Chromosom (VI+, 60m) and X Chromosom (VI, 95m)
Baspa Valley, India: Raldang Spire climbed by Austrian expedition
12/10/2020 - Alpinism
Baspa Valley, India: Raldang Spire climbed by Austrian expedition
In October 2019 an Austrian expedition comprised of Alexander Blümel, Much Mayr, Peter Mühlburger and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of Baba Ji on Raldang Spire in the Baspa Valley, Kinnaur, India. Mühlburger reports.
Neil Gresham settles the Final Score, E10 at Iron Crag in UK
12/10/2020 - Climbing
Neil Gresham settles the Final Score, E10 at Iron Crag in UK
British rock climber Neil Gresham has established Final Score, an E10 trad climb at Iron Crag in England.
Two New Routes on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
09/10/2020 - Alpinism
Two New Routes on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
Simon Richardson reports about two new routes climbed on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in the Mont Blanc massif with Michael Rinn, the ephemeral mixed route Dinosaur Gully and the traditional multi-pitch rock climb Autumn Vibes.
Vertical Ice: The Spirit of Guy Lacelle
07/10/2020 - Alpinism
Vertical Ice: The Spirit of Guy Lacelle
The film Vertical Ice: The Spirit of Guy Lacelle, dedicated to the Canadian ice climbing guru who died in 2009.
New line on Mount Robson Emperor Face by Ethan Berman, Uisdean Hawthorn
07/10/2020 - Alpinism
New line on Mount Robson Emperor Face by Ethan Berman, Uisdean Hawthorn
Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn have made the first ascent of Running in the Shadows (VI AI5 M6 2000m), a big new mixed route up the famous Emperor Face of Mount Robson in the Canadian Rockies.
Climbing in Aladaglar, Turkey: Zorbey Aktuyun adds difficult trad route, completes Orient rope solo
06/10/2020 - Climbing
Climbing in Aladaglar, Turkey: Zorbey Aktuyun adds difficult trad route, completes Orient rope solo
Turkish rock climber Zorbey Aktuyun has made the first ascent of the 8a trad climb Kült at Pınarbaşı Canyon in the Aladağlar massif. Furthermore, on the striking Parmakkaya obelisk he has made a rope solo ascent of the classic Orient climb, established by Helmut Gargitter and Pauli Trenkwalder.
Tom Hornbein, Everest West Ridge pioneer, in American Alpine Club Legacy Series
05/10/2020 - Alpinism
Tom Hornbein, Everest West Ridge pioneer, in American Alpine Club Legacy Series
A video tribute to Tom Hornbein, the formidable American mountaineer famous above all for his first ascent of the West Ridge of Everest in 1963 with Willi Unsoeld, by the American Alpine Club Legacy Series.
Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja meeting for Sports Festival in Italy
05/10/2020 - Alpinism
Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja meeting for Sports Festival in Italy
On Thursday 8 October the video will be aired documenting the encounter between Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja, two of the most famous mountaineers in the world, in the run-up to the Gazzetta dello Sport Festival which take place in Milan, Italy, from Friday 9 to Sunday 11 October.
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
01/10/2020 - Alpinism
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili and Tepnadze up the NW Face of Ushba. Badriashvili reports.
Silvan Schüpbach, Matteo Della Bordella, Yannick Glatthard discover their Ying Yang on Gross Wellhorn
29/09/2020 - Alpinism
Silvan Schüpbach, Matteo Della Bordella, Yannick Glatthard discover their Ying Yang on Gross Wellhorn
On Gross Wellhorn in Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland the alpinists Silvan Schüpbach, Matteo Della Bordella and Yannick Glatthard have completed Ying Yang, a 450m multipitch climb graded 8b.