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David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
23/01/2012 - Alpinism
David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
Yesterday 22/01/2012 David Lama made the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. The news has been confirmed by David Lama's team. There are no further details but this update will certainly add fuel to the controversy which has followed the bolt chopping carried out recently...
Voie Lesueur, free ascent by Steck and Griffith on Petit Dru
19/01/2012 - Alpinism
Voie Lesueur, free ascent by Steck and Griffith on Petit Dru
On the North Face of Petit Dru (3754m) Ueli Steck and Jonathan Griffith have carried out what is likely to be the first free ascent of the Voie Lesueur (ED3, M8+, 900m) with some drytooling sections and a new variation finish.
Non ci resta che piangere, first free ascent by the Riegler brothers
17/01/2012 - Alpinism
Non ci resta che piangere, first free ascent by the Riegler brothers
On 12/01/2012 Florian ande Martin Riegler made the first free ascent of Non ci resta che piangere IX+/X- (Sella, Dolomites).
Ski mountaineering in the Upper Tauern, East Tirol, Austria
Ski mountaineering in the Upper Tauern, East Tirol, Austria
Figerhorn, Langschneid and Hochgasser, three ski mountaineering itineraries in the Upper Tauern, East Tirol, Austria, introduced by Vittorio Messini, Mountain Guide Kals am Großglockner.
Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Venas Azules on Torre Egger in Patagonia. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti
04/01/2012 - Alpinism
Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Venas Azules on Torre Egger in Patagonia. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti
Rolando Garibotti and the interview and meeting with Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, the Norwegian alpinist who in December 2011 together with Ole Lied established the route Venas Azules up the South Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia.
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko travel towards their dream
30/12/2011 - Interviews
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko travel towards their dream
Interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko, currently on their way to Nanga Parbat to attempt the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m).
Corrado 'Korra' Pesce, from No Siesta to Cerro Torre. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti
13/12/2011 - Alpinism
Corrado 'Korra' Pesce, from No Siesta to Cerro Torre. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti
From the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses to Patagonia. Corrado "Korra" Pesce's alpine journey, introduced by Rolando Garibotti in this meeting and interview - from one alpinist to another - in El Chalten
Supercanaleta Fitz Roy, Patagonia
09/12/2011 - Alpinism
Supercanaleta Fitz Roy, Patagonia
Some climbs seem timeless due to their importance in the history of alpinism. One of these is certainly Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia. The story by Damiano Barabino, Sergio De Leo, Marcello Sanguineti.
Gojung details, Mick Fowler interview
15/11/2011 - Alpinism
Gojung details, Mick Fowler interview
An interview with British mountaineer Mick Fowler after the first ascent of Gojung (6310m) in Nepal, Himalaya together with Dave Turnbull.
Adam Ondra frees Terranova 8C+
15/11/2011 - Climbing
Adam Ondra frees Terranova 8C+
Adam Ondra has established his hardest boudler problem to date, Terranova 8C+ at Moravsky Kras in the Czech Republic.
Cerro Torre West Face, the 2011 Patagonia season has begun
13/11/2011 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre West Face, the 2011 Patagonia season has begun
The 2011 "andesimo" season in Patagonia has begun in earnest with a great ascent of the rarely repeated West Face of Cerro Torre at the hands of Michael Lerjen-Demjen from Zermatt and Korra Pesce from Chamonix who chose to ascend the famous Ragni route (1500m, AI5+ M4 MI6 mushroom...
Millennium Bug at Cala Gonone, new route by Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia in Sardinia
10/11/2011 - Climbing
Millennium Bug at Cala Gonone, new route by Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia in Sardinia
On 19/10/2011 Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia freed Millennium Bug (7b+, 110m), their new multi-pitch outing established ground-up across the beautiful Millennium cave at Cala Gonone in Sardinia. A particular route, perhaps unique even. The report by Maurizio Oviglia.
Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva, El Cap exploration in Yosemite
08/11/2011 - Climbing
Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva, El Cap exploration in Yosemite
Nico Favresse repeated The Salathe Wall before exploring a new line up the right-hand side of El Capitan, Yosemite together with Sean Villanueva.
Via Casarotto on Cima Civetta solo
07/10/2011 - Alpinism
Via Casarotto on Cima Civetta solo
On Tuesday 30 August 2011 Italian alpinist Fabrizio della Rossa carried out what is believed to be the first solo ascent, and one of the rare repeats, of via Casarotto on Cima Civetta 3220m (Dolomites).
Hansjörg Auer, new route Bruderliebe on the Marmolada, Dolomites
03/10/2011 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer, new route Bruderliebe on the Marmolada, Dolomites
Interview with Hansjörg Auer after the first ascent of Bruderliebe (800m/8b/b+) up the South Face of the Marmolada in the Dolomites.
Matterhorn, via Bonatti in 7 hours 14 minutes by Aufdenblatten and Lerjen-Demjen
28/09/2011 - Alpinism
Matterhorn, via Bonatti in 7 hours 14 minutes by Aufdenblatten and Lerjen-Demjen
On 27/09/2011 the Swiss alpinists Patrick Aufdenblatten and Michael Lerjen-Demjen climbed the North Face of the Matterhorn via the Bonatti Diretissima (ED+ 1200m) in 7 hours 14 minutes.

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