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Leo Houlding interview after The Prophet on El Capitan
01/11/2010 - Interviews
Leo Houlding interview after The Prophet on El Capitan
Interview with British climber after the first ascent of The Prophet on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA, carried out in 6 days in October 2010 with Jason Pickles and graded E9 7a, 5.13d R, 8b, 510m.
Greenland 2010 roundup and Nico Favresse interview
19/10/2010 - Alpinism
Greenland 2010 roundup and Nico Favresse interview
Interview with Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse after his three month climbing and sailing trip to Greenland.
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
14/10/2010 - Alpinism
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
On 14/07/2010 Rolando Larcher and climbing partner Tiziano Buccella carried out the first free ascent of AlexAnna (740m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obl.), up the Pilastro Lindo on the SW Face of Punta Penia on the Marmolada, Dolomites. Larcher had established...
Aiguille de la Brenva, Mares, first repeat after 8 years
11/08/2010 - Alpinism
Aiguille de la Brenva, Mares, first repeat after 8 years
On 16 July the Mountain Guides Marco Farina, Matteo Giglio and Giovanna Mongilardi repeated Mares, 8 years after the first ascent up the East Face on Aiguille de la Brenva, Mont Blanc range.
Mountain stories: Courmayeur, August 2010
02/08/2010 - Events
Mountain stories: Courmayeur, August 2010
4 evenings and 4 great mountaineering stories as told by Valery Babanov, Hans Kammerlander, Silvio Mondinelli and Stevie Haston. The evenings will be introduced by Vinicio Stefanello, editor of PlanetMountain.com.
Tingeling, new link-up on Blamann by Hansjörg Auer & Much Mayr
29/07/2010 - Climbing
Tingeling, new link-up on Blamann by Hansjörg Auer & Much Mayr
The Austrians Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have established Tingeling (400m 7c+), a new free enchainement up the massive granite Blamann tower. Due to prohibitive conditions the route still awaits its first continuous redpoint ascent.
Rock climbing in Val di Mello
24/06/2010 - Climbing
Rock climbing in Val di Mello
Luna Nascente, Mani di Fata, Oceano Irrazionale and Vedova Nera, four fantastic rock climbs in the beautiful Val di Mello, introduced by Andrea Gaddi.
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
27/05/2010 - Alpinism
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
Contrary to what we published previously, the ascent by the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn is not the first ascent of the North Face of Monte Sarmiento, as this had previously been climbed by an Italian Ragni...
Checkmate by the Riegler brothers on Gran Zebrù
19/05/2010 - Alpinism
Checkmate by the Riegler brothers on Gran Zebrù
In winter 2010 Florian and Martin Riegler carried out the first ascent of Schachmatt - Checkmate- 1000m M10+ WI5 55°) on the North Face of Gran Zebrù.
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
12/04/2010 - Events
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award;...
La Piovra, new icefall on Monte Derbianco, Switzerland
04/03/2010 - Alpinism
La Piovra, new icefall on Monte Derbianco, Switzerland
On 13/02/2010 Nikita Uboldi, Ean Barelli and Andrea Cairoli carried out the first ascent of La Piovra (4. WI6- M7R A1), in the Prosito mountain range in Canton Ticino, Switzerland
When icefalls crack
25/02/2010 - Alpinism
When icefalls crack
The story of an ice pillar collapsing. An adventure which thankfully resulted in no injuries, but which provides ample food for thought...
Reinhold Messner interview
27/01/2010 - Interviews
Reinhold Messner interview
Reinhold Messner, his life and alpinism beyond the 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.
Luca Vuerich killed by avalanche
23/01/2010 - Alpinism
Luca Vuerich killed by avalanche
On 22 January 2010, 34 year old Italian mountaineer Luca Vuerich was killed by an avalanche while climbing an icefall at Prisojinik, close to Kranjska Gora on the Italian-Slovenian border. Vuerich was rescued and transported to hospital in Udine, where...
Colin Haley and the video of his solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia
15/01/2010 - Alpinism
Colin Haley and the video of his solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia
The video of American alpinist Colin Haley's 20/12/2009 solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia, via the Amy route. The film was made by Haley with a video camera mounted on his helmet.
Christmas at home then ski on your own
Christmas at home then ski on your own
Paolo Tassi and the joy of skiing: skiing freely between the emotions of art which renews itsself with each snowfall.