159 News found
20/01/2021 - Alpinism
Farewell to Cesare Maestri Cesare Maestri passed away yesterday aged 91. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home mountains, but also to Cerro Torre in Patagonia.
08/01/2021 - Alpinism
Stalingrad, new Kingline in Karwendel climbed by David Bruder, Martin Feistl On 20 and 21 December 2020 German alpinists David Bruder and Martin Feistl made the first ascent of Stalingrad, a 1000m route between Grubenkarspitze (2663m) and Plattenspitze (2492m) in the Karwendel massif in Austria.
29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...
24/12/2020 - Book-press
Winter 8000 by Bernadette McDonald Winter 8000: Climbing the World's Highest Mountains in the Coldest Season by award-winning author Bernadette McDonald. The best-selling mountaineering book, the most complete analysis of winter climbing in the Himalayas, finalist of all the most important international mountain literature awards.
24/11/2020 - Alpinism
24 hours of freedom on Sagwand in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, Sven Brand In mid-November 2020 Martin Feistl and Sven Brand in Valsertal, Austria, made the first ascent of 24 hours of freedom (300m, M6, WI 4, X) on the north face of Sagwand. This is a direct start to Rampenführe, the original line up the face, and shares a short section with...
02/09/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award The report and words about mountaineering from the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded to the Austrian mountaineer Heinz Mariacher celebrated at Reinhold Messner's Firmian Castle. Mariacher is the eighth alpinist to receive the prestigious award after Messner himself, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
27/08/2020 - Alpinism
From Hell to Heaven, Hervé Barmasse and Stefano Perrone climb new route in Piantonetto Valley, Italy Italian alpinist Hervé Barmasse reports about Dall'inferno al Paradiso, from hell to heaven, a new multi-pitch rock climb on Torre del Gran San Pietro above the Piantonetto Valley (Orco Valley, Gran Paradiso National Park, Italy) first ascended with Stefano Perrone.
24/08/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020 Austrian alpinist Heinz Mariacher is the recipient of the Paul Preuss Award 2020. Mariacher is the eighth mountaineer to receive the prestigious prize after Reinhold Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
31/07/2020 - Interviews
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview Interview with British rock climber Ben Moon, one of the world’s greatest rock climbers throughout the 1980’s and early 1990’s with landmark first ascents such one of Britain’s first 8a, Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn in Wales and Hubble at Raven Tor, hailed as the world’s first 8c+...
16/06/2020 - Climbing
Wafaa Amer, climbing and freedom Climbing, at least the type we like, is all about climbing free. But there can be no doubt that we far prefer the freedom that climbing can offer, that transcends all judgements and prejudices. Precisely as indicated by Wafaa Amer.
20/05/2020 - Interviews
Paul Robinson climbs 1000 boulders 8A or harder Interview with American rock climber Paul Robinson who recently managed to climb his 1000th boulder problem graded 8A or harder.
08/05/2020 - Interviews
Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview Interview with Alessandro Zeni who on 11/01/2020 at Saint Loup in Switzerland made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of the routes Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna. With its suggested grade of 9b it checks in as one of the most difficult slabs in the world.
17/04/2020 - Climbing
The Choices of American climber Steph Davis The portrait of the Steph Davis, the talented American climber, mountaineer, Base jumper.
14/04/2020 - Climbing
Anna Stöhr’s Evolution online at 14 today Today at 14.00 Salewa launches its film Evolution about Austrian climber Anna Stöhr. After dominating bouldering competitions for over a decade, following a back injury the 31-year-old decided to change completely and test herself on Ali Baba, the difficult and beautiful multi-pitch sports climb at Aiglun in France. The documentary...
08/04/2020 - Climbing
The fascinating game of climbing: Heinz Mariacher on Rude Boys Watch Heinz Mariacher repeating Rude Boys (8b/5.13c) at Smith Rock, Oregon, USA. A video from 1987 that takes you back to the origins of this 'new climbing’.
25/03/2020 - Environment
Do your part Now more than ever we are called upon to do our part. We must stay at home for everyone’s good, in order to regain happiness and also the freedom to return to the mountains.
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