159 News found
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.
15/12/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson suggests E12 for his Bon Voyage at Annot in France After the first ascent in February 2023, British climber James Pearson has now proposed the grade E12 for Bon Voyage at Annot in France. Currently there is no other trad route of this grade. In this great introspective piece the 30-year-old British climber talks about the path that led him...
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen Tower, while 'Super Thuraya' (6c, 500m) climbs the southwest pillar...
23/08/2023 - Alpinism
Benjamin Védrines completes fast Aiguille Dibona solo The video of French mountaineer Benjamin Védrines who, starting from the car park, climbed Aiguille Dibona (3130m) via the Madier route in 1 hour and 24 minutes.
16/02/2023 - Climbing
Extremely Leonidio & Incredibly Close Climbing destinations and travel: notes from Leonidio in the Peloponnese, without a shadow of doubt one of the best rock climbing areas in Greece. By Nicoletta Costi and Nicola Noè.
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply being Jews, did not have their membership renewed. Today the...
23/12/2022 - Alpinism
Climbing community, be the voice of oppressed Iranian mountaineers! An appeal has been launched in favour of five mountaineers from Iran, Dena Sheybani, Mohammed Khiveh, Eshragh Najafabadi, Amir Arslan Mahdavi and Hessam Mousavi, arrested recently during the country-wide protests sparked by the death in custody of Mahsa Amini in mid-September and reportedly in grave danger. By French journalist Claude...
04/11/2022 - Alpinism
Ines Papert makes free ascent of her Wolke 7 on Hinteres Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm Ines Papert has made a free ascent of Wolke 7 on Hintere Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm in the Berchtesgaden Alps in Germany. The 350m 8a was established ground-up by the German climber in 2020 with her Slovenian husband Luka Lindič, who also made the first free ascent. Papert reports.
10/10/2022 - Interviews
We are Mahsa Amini! Interview with Iranian climber Nasim Eshqi On September 16, 2022, Mahsa Amini, a 22-year-old Iranian woman, died after being arrested by the morality police in Tehran. Since then, outrageously brave, predominantly young women across the country have been protesting for human rights, equality and against the oppression of a totalitarian regime. German journalist Tom Dauer...
16/03/2022 - Events
Ukraine crisis: Grivel halts deliveries to Russia As a result of the war in the Ukraine, Grivel decided to temporarily stop deliveries to Russia. Published below is the 10/03/2022 press release of the historic Valle d'Aosta climbing gear company.
07/03/2022 - Climbing
Yuji Hirayama (53) liberates Peaceful Mountain 9a at Mt Futago, Japan 53-year-old Japanese rock climber Yuji Hirayama has made the first ascent of Peaceful Mountain 9a at Futagoyama (Mt Futago) in Japan.
19/01/2022 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
freedom To Explore: climbing and skiing the 12 highest mountains in Sweden The 5th episode of SCOTT's freedom To Explore Series features Winter Pro Team Athlete Jackie Paaso, mountain guides Benjamin Ribeyre and Erin Smart and team, on an expedition to climb and ski the 12 highest peaks in Sweden, in an area known as Europe's last wilderness.
08/10/2021 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention The 2021 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be awarded in November at Briançon, France, to Pierrick Fine and Symon Welfringer for their ascent of Sani Pakkush and Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn for their ascent of Mount Robson. Catalan climber Silvia Vidal has received a special mention.
26/05/2021 - Climbing
Wafaa Amer, finding the courage to be free The portrait of Egyptian rock climber Wafaa Amer featured in the short film Hura directed by Matteo Pavana and Pietro Porro.
03/05/2021 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Hermann Comploj completes big first ski descent down Col Turont, Dolomites Interview with mountain guide Hermann Comploj who on 24/03/2021 made the first ski descent of the North Couloir on Col Turont (2419m) in Langental / Vallunga, Dolomites, Italy.
16/04/2021 - Climbing
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