59 News found
02/09/2016 - Alpinism
Greenland big wall climbing: Apostel Tommelfinger West Face climbed by international team Silvan Schüpbach, Christian Ledergerber, Fabio Lupo, Jérôme Sullivan and Antoine Moineville have made the first ascent of Metrophobia (ice 120°, A2+, 7a), a 1700m new big wall climb on Apostel Tommelfinger in Southern Greenland. The new route is believed to be the first up the West Face of the 2315m...
09/08/2016 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz climb Baffin Island The Turret by fair means German alpinists Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz and photographer Klaus Fengler have just returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where, on the West Face of The Turret, they managed to repeat and add new free variations to Nuvualik, the climb established in June 1995 by Warren Hollinger, Jerry Gore...
16/10/2014 - Alpinism
Shark's Tooth in Greenland by fair means, the report by Matteo Della Bordella The report by Matteo Della Bordella about the first ascent of The Great Shark Hunt (900m, 7b+), the new route up Shark's Tooth in Greenland established onsight and in a single push in August 2014 together with Silvan Schüpbach and Christian Ledergerber. A great adventure that involved kayaks (to paddle...
10/10/2014 - Alpinism
Has exploratory alpinism failed? Starting from a recent statement by Reinhold Messner, Manuel Lugli discusses the presumed end of “traditional” and exploratory alpinism.
22/03/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or, special mention to Kennedy, Kruk, Lama and Ornter The Jury motivation for the special mention assigned to Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk, David Lama and Peter Ortner which will be awarded during the 21st Piolet d'Or, scheduled to take place from 3 - 6 April 2013 at Courmayeur and Chamonix at the foot of Mont Blanc.
13/02/2013 - Climbing
Amiata trad climbing in Tuscany Trad climbing around Monte Amiata in Tuscany, Italy, introduced by Federico Schlatter.
30/01/2013 - Alpinism
Patagonia, news from Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, the Ragni and more Fresh news from Patagonia: new routes on Fitz Roy (Flavio Daflon, Sergio Tartari and Luciano Fiorenza) and Aguja de l’S (Josh Huckaby and Mikey Schaefer); The Corkscrew on Cerro Torre climbed by Colin Haley and Chad Kellogg; an attempt currently underway on the West Face of Torre Egger (Matteo Della...
27/07/2012 - Events
Arco Rock Legends, the 2012 nominations The nominations for the VII edition of the Arco Rock Legends, the sport climbing Oscars which will take place on 31 July 2012 during the Rock Master Festival 2012 and award the prestigious Salewa Rock Award and La Sportiva Competition Award. Those nominated for the Salewa Rock Award are: Sasha...
09/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre bolt chopping, the debate in Italy With regards to the bolt chopping on Cerro Torre's Compressor route, we have received and published the views of Stefano Lovison, shared by numerous Italian alpinists.
23/01/2012 - Alpinism
David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated Yesterday 22/01/2012 David Lama made the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. The news has been confirmed by David Lama's team. There are no further details but this update will certainly add fuel to the controversy which has followed the bolt chopping carried out recently...
20/01/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means On 17/01/2012 Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed the SE Ridge (the Compressor route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via a route "by fair means" with difficulties up to 5.11 A2. In descent the two removed a significant portion of the Compressor route established by Cesare Maestri in 1970.
03/08/2011 - Alpinism
Dent du Géant - Mont Blanc The Dent du Geant (4013m), a great classic in the Mont Blanc range, introduced by Gianni Lanza.
21/03/2011 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2011: the nominations, Doug Scott receives Lifetime Achievement, and all the evenings The IXX Piolet d'Or will take place from 13 - 16 April 2011 at Courmayeur and Chamonix (Mont Blanc). Six ascents are in the running for the golden ice axe, while the great British mountaineer Doug Scott will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award. Details of the evening dedicated to Extra-Ordinary...
19/10/2010 - Alpinism
Greenland 2010 roundup and Nico Favresse interview Interview with Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse after his three month climbing and sailing trip to Greenland.
29/09/2010 - Climbing
Kurt Albert is dead. Goodbye to a climbing legend German climbing legend Kurt Albert died yesterday at 20.45 aged 56 following the accident last Sunday on a via ferrata in Bavaria, Germany on Sunday.
18/06/2010 - Alpinism
Greenland ahoy for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto Climbers Nico and Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto are preparing for three month climbing trip to Greenland to explore huge virgin big walls.
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