201 News found
31/07/2020 - Interviews
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview Interview with British rock climber Ben Moon, one of the world’s greatest rock climbers throughout the 1980’s and early 1990’s with landmark first ascents such one of Britain’s first 8a, Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn in Wales and...
08/07/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2020: the big list
of significant ascents The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2019. From this they will select the recipients of the Piolets d'Or award that will be celebrated during...
16/04/2020 - Alpinism
Remembering Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley It's a year to the day that Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Jess Roskelley were killed in a climbing accident on Howse Peak in Canada.
13/04/2020 - Alpinism
Marc Toralles, Bru Busom climbing the Slovak Direct up Denali in alaska Watch Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles repeating the Slovak Direct up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in alaska in 2019.
10/04/2020 - Alpinism
Sílvia Vidal completes 33-day solo ascent of Sincronia Magica on Cerro Chileno Grande, Patagonia After spending 33 days alone on the wall from 07/02 - 10/03/2020, Silvia Vidal completed a new big wall climb up the West Face of Cerro Chileno Grande in Patagonia, Chile. Sincronia Magica (A3+/6a+, 1200m circa) is the first route...
14/02/2020 - Alpinism
Marc-Andre's Visión completed on Torre Egger in Patagonia Brette Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton have completed Marc-Andre’s Visión, a new route up the East Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia envisaged in 2016 by the late Marc-André Leclerc.
24/10/2019 - Alpinism
Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer 30 years today: on 24 October 1989, Polish mountaineer Jerzy Kukuczka died while attempting Lhotse. Kukuczka was the second man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders after Reinhold Messner and an absolute legend of high altitude Himalayan mountaineering.
28/08/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Richardson and Ian Welsted traverse Mount Waddington West Ridge in Canada British mountaineer Simon Richardson reports about the first ascent of the entire west ridge of Mount Waddington in Canada’s Coast Mountains, climbed with Ian Welsted alpine style from 3 to 7 August 2019. On 22 July the duo climbed the...
09/08/2019 - Alpinism
All or nothing. By Hector Silva Peralta The first of two parts written by Hector Silva Peralta, a Chilean mountaineer who lived in Italy for 9 years before traveling to Chile, Canada and alaska pursuing his dream: to become a mountaineer.
22/07/2019 - Alpinism
François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl speed up the Peutérey Integral, Mont Blanc The two mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl have carried out an extremely fast ascent of the Peutérey Integral Ridge in the Mont Blanc massif in just 12 hours and 12 minutes. The round-trip back to the starting point...
19/07/2019 - Alpinism
Janez Svoljšak, goodbye to the promising climber from Slovenia Slovenian alpinist Janez Svoljšak passed away on 15 July at base camp while on an expedition to climb Tahu Rutum (6650m), Karakorum, Pakistan. The promising mountaineer was just 25 years old.
05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs 58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the...
27/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in alaska established from 13 - 23 May...
23/06/2019 - Alpinism
Karl Egloff sets new Denali Speed record in alaska Ecuadorian - Swiss mountain guide Karl Egloff has set a new speed record on Denali in alaska, climbing the West Buttress route in 7:40 and returning to his starting point in 11:44. In doing so he beat the previous fastest...
20/06/2019 - Alpinism
King Cobra on Mount Barrill, big wall variation to Cobra Pillar in alaska Daniel Joll, Kim Ladiges, Alastair McDowell and John Price have made the first ascent of King Cobra (550m, 5.11), a 350m variation to the famous Cobra Pillar on the East Face of Mount Barrill (2332m) in the Ruth Gorge, alaska.
07/06/2019 - Alpinism
Five first ascents in alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson Despite challenging conditions Simon Richardson and Mark Robson have made the first ascent of five hitherto unclimbed peaks in the Stikine Range in South-East alaska, including Peak 7180, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the region. Richardson reports.
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