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Future of rock climbing at stake at Grampians, Australia
21/01/2021 - Climbing
Future of rock climbing at stake at Grampians, Australia
Numerous crags at the Grampians are at risk of closure. The Australian Climbing Association Victoria is asking climbers to submit their thoughts by Sunday 24 January 2021 to the government agency Parks Victoria against the plans which, if adopted, would ban access to about 80% of the area’s rock climbs...
Narsil added to Kandersteg's Breitwangflue by Simon Chatelan, Nicolas Jaquet
19/01/2021 - Alpinism
Narsil added to Kandersteg's Breitwangflue by Simon Chatelan, Nicolas Jaquet
On the Breitwangfluh above Kandersteg in Switzerland Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet have established the mixed climb Narsil (M10 WI5+). Chatelan reports.
Nirmal Purja climbed K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen
18/01/2021 - Alpinism
Nirmal Purja climbed K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen
Nepalese mountaineer Nirmal Purja has reported that he climbed K2 in winter without the use of supplementary oxygen.
Tamara Lunger remembers Sergi Mingote
18/01/2021 - Alpinism
Tamara Lunger remembers Sergi Mingote
The thoughts of Tamara Lunger, published yesterday on Facebook, in memory of Sergi Mingote, the Catalan mountaineer who lost his life on Saturday 16 January 2021 while descending from Camp 1 on K2. The South Tyrolean mountaineer is currently attempting the second highest mountain in the world and, in addition...
Sergi Mingote perishes on K2
16/01/2021 - Alpinism
Sergi Mingote perishes on K2
Spanish mountaineer Sergi Mingote died earlier today while descending from K2. The Catalan mountaineer was descending from Camp 1 to Advanced Base Camp when he fell to his death.
K2: Nepalese mountaineers claim historic first winter ascent
16/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2: Nepalese mountaineers claim historic first winter ascent
Today, Saturday 16 January 2021 at 16:58 local time, a team of 10 Nepalese mountaineers completed the highly coveted first winter ascent of K2, the second highest mountain in the world and the last 8000er to be climbed in the coldest season. News of the successful summit was provided by...
K2 in winter, decisive phase begins in earnest
15/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter, decisive phase begins in earnest
The attempt to climb K2 in winter is entering the decisive moments, with Camp 4 installed at 7800 meters by the various Sherpa teams led by Nirmal Purja, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and Seven Summit Treks.
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
14/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Space Force created in Val Bavona by Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel
12/01/2021 - Climbing
Space Force created in Val Bavona by Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel
German climbers Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel have established Space Force (8a+/230m) a new multi-pitch climb in Valle Bavona, Ticino, Switzerland.
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
12/01/2021 - Alpinism
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
The 5726m high pyramidal Luza Peak in the Khumbu region of the Nepal was climbed for the first time at the end of 2020 by a young trio of Sherpa comprised of Pemba Sharwa Sherpa, Urken Sherpa and Lhakpa Gyaljen Sherpa. Pemba Sherpa reports about the ascent and gives interesting...
K2 winter / High winds destroy Camp 2
11/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 winter / High winds destroy Camp 2
The storms that hit K2 last week have wrecked Camp 2, destroying all equipment belonging to the expedition led by Nirmal Purja. The 37-year-old Nepalese mountaineer has already stated he will not give up and simply postpone his attempt to climb the last remaining eight-thousander that has never been climbed...
Video Patagonia 2019: Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist searching for unclimbed peaks
09/01/2021 - Alpinism
Video Patagonia 2019: Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist searching for unclimbed peaks
The video of the Swiss expedition comprised of Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist to Patagonia in November 2019. The alpinists made the first ascent of the NE Face of Cerro Cachet via Homenaje a los amigos perdidos, named in memory of David Lama, Ueli Steck and Julian Zanker.
Phoenix added to Hochbrunner Schneid in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
02/01/2021 - Alpinism
Phoenix added to Hochbrunner Schneid in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Phoenix, a difficult mixed climb on Hochbrunner Schneid in the Italian Dolomites.
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...
Titanium climbing bolts appeal by Maurizio Oviglia for Sardinia's seaside crags
28/12/2020 - Climbing
Titanium climbing bolts appeal by Maurizio Oviglia for Sardinia's seaside crags
Italian climber and new router Maurizio Oviglia once again focuses on the safety of climbing bolts and anchors on sport climbs in seaside environments and has launched a campaign to raise funds in order to re-bolt some marine crags in Sardinia with titanium bolts.
James Pearson repeats Harder, Faster while Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Gaia at Black Rocks
27/12/2020 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Harder, Faster while Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Gaia at Black Rocks
At Black Rocks in England James Pearson has repeated the extremely dangerous gritstone testpiece Harder, Faster while his wife Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated Gaia. Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, while Ciavaldini claims the third female ascent.

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