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K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
14/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Space Force created in Val Bavona by Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel
12/01/2021 - Climbing
Space Force created in Val Bavona by Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel
German climbers Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel have established Space Force (8a+/230m) a new multi-pitch climb in Valle Bavona, Ticino, Switzerland.
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
12/01/2021 - Alpinism
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
The 5726m high pyramidal Luza Peak in the Khumbu region of the Nepal was climbed for the first time at the end of 2020 by a young trio of Sherpa comprised of Pemba Sharwa Sherpa, Urken Sherpa and Lhakpa Gyaljen Sherpa. Pemba Sherpa reports about the ascent and gives interesting...
K2 winter / High winds destroy Camp 2
11/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 winter / High winds destroy Camp 2
The storms that hit K2 last week have wrecked Camp 2, destroying all equipment belonging to the expedition led by Nirmal Purja. The 37-year-old Nepalese mountaineer has already stated he will not give up and simply postpone his attempt to climb the last remaining eight-thousander that has never been climbed...
Video Patagonia 2019: Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist searching for unclimbed peaks
09/01/2021 - Alpinism
Video Patagonia 2019: Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist searching for unclimbed peaks
The video of the Swiss expedition comprised of Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist to Patagonia in November 2019. The alpinists made the first ascent of the NE Face of Cerro Cachet via Homenaje a los amigos perdidos, named in memory of David Lama, Ueli Steck and Julian Zanker.
Phoenix added to Hochbrunner Schneid in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
02/01/2021 - Alpinism
Phoenix added to Hochbrunner Schneid in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Phoenix, a difficult mixed climb on Hochbrunner Schneid in the Italian Dolomites.
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...
Titanium climbing bolts appeal by Maurizio Oviglia for Sardinia's seaside crags
28/12/2020 - Climbing
Titanium climbing bolts appeal by Maurizio Oviglia for Sardinia's seaside crags
Italian climber and new router Maurizio Oviglia once again focuses on the safety of climbing bolts and anchors on sport climbs in seaside environments and has launched a campaign to raise funds in order to re-bolt some marine crags in Sardinia with titanium bolts.
James Pearson repeats Harder, Faster while Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Gaia at Black Rocks
27/12/2020 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Harder, Faster while Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Gaia at Black Rocks
At Black Rocks in England James Pearson has repeated the extremely dangerous gritstone testpiece Harder, Faster while his wife Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated Gaia. Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, while Ciavaldini claims the third female ascent.
Adam Ondra and Perfecto Mundo at Margalef / The final countdown
23/12/2020 - Climbing
Adam Ondra and Perfecto Mundo at Margalef / The final countdown
Almost perfect conditions at Margalef in Spain as Adam Ondra continues his attempts on the 9b+ Perfecto Mundo.
Petzl Legend Tour Italy, complete movie online
21/12/2020 - Climbing
Petzl Legend Tour Italy, complete movie online
Watch the first episode of Petzl Legend Tour Italia, a journey to Finale Ligure exploring the origins of Italian sport climbing in the 1980's
Niccolò Ceria repeats Gioia, Christian Core's masterpiece at Varazze
16/12/2020 - Climbing
Niccolò Ceria repeats Gioia, Christian Core's masterpiece at Varazze
Italian boulderer Niccolò Ceria has made the fourth ascent of Gioia at Varazze, the boulder problem established by Christian Core in 2008, graded 8C+ and hitherto repeated by only Adam Ondra and Nalle Hukkataival.
Petzl Legend Tour Italy, the trailer about sport climbing at Finale Ligure
16/12/2020 - Climbing
Petzl Legend Tour Italy, the trailer about sport climbing at Finale Ligure
The trailer to Petzl Legend Tour Italy, a journey to Finale Ligure exploring the origins of Italian sport climbing.
Makatea: climbing on French Polynesia’s paradisiacal island
14/12/2020 - Climbing
Makatea: climbing on French Polynesia’s paradisiacal island
The film Makatea Vertical Adventure by Guillaume Broust that documents the birth of climbing on the remote island of Makatea in French Polynesia.
Dave MacLeod, Iain Small establish Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland
10/12/2020 - Alpinism
Dave MacLeod, Iain Small establish Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland
Scottish climbers Dave MacLeod and Iain Small have made the first ascent of the mixed climb Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland.
Aaron Durogati and Simon Gietl climb & fly Mount Rauchkofel North Face
04/12/2020 - Alpinism
Aaron Durogati and Simon Gietl climb & fly Mount Rauchkofel North Face
On 29/11/2020 Simon Gietl and Aaron Durogati made the first ascent of a new 500m route on the hitherto unclimbed north face of Mount Rauchkofel in the South Tyrol, Italy. After the ascent, the two climbers paraglided back down to valley. Durogati reports about this latest paralpinism adventure.

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