Dave Graham repeats First Ley 9a+ at Margalef

For the last two decades Dave Graham has been one of the world’s leading sport climbers and the 39-year-old American has now made a class repeat of First Ley at Margalef in Spain. This 9a+ shares the same start at First Round First Minute, Chris Sharma’s superb 9b freed in 2011, but then breaks off left at the top to avoid the cruxy finish.

Graham had tried the line 10 years ago without making much headway whatsoever, describing it as his "nemesis" route, but during this winter in Catalonia he managed to decipher some new sequences; a few weeks ago he got close to the send, then on Saturday, without great expectations, he made the redpoint.

Graham wouldn’t be Graham if he weren’t considering the true king line of the sector, First Round First Minute, and to keep things interesting he is making consistent progress on the 9b La Capella at nearby Siurana. If the temps stay cool, there may well be more in store.

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