2234 News found

Stefano Ghisolfi analyses the holds of Bibliographie, the 9c freed at Céüse in summer 2020 by Alexander Megos,

American climber Ashima Shiraishi has repeated the 8b+ boulder problem Jade in the Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado, USA.

In July a Slovenian Youth Alpine Team comprised of Matija Volontar, Bor Levičnik, Matevž Štular and Blaž Karner succeeded in climbing two new routes on Hualcan (6122m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Štular provides the report of the ascents, one of which was carried out with Aritza Monasterio.

On the 9th of August, the French-Peruvian Andinists Steve Meder and Edward Saona established a new route up the South-West Face of Nevado Sullcon Sur (5650m) in the Central Cordillera mountain range of Peru. Cara Suroeste Directa is only the 4th ascent of the mountain.

Dmitrii Panov reports about a Russian summer 2020 climbing expedition to Peak Kart and Peak Mechta, situated in the South Muysky Ridge area of Siberia. During the 20-day expedition the climbers forged 8 new routes, made the first ascents of 8 mountains and completed 2 ridge traverses.

In June 2021 Tom Livingstone and Mathieu Maynadier attempted the unclimbed SE Ridge of Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan. Due to prohibitive conditions they descended from 6750m.

On the north face of Presolana Angelo Contessi and Leonardo Gheza have made the first ascent of Presolana Holiday. The new multi-pitch rock climb tackles an independent line between via Bosio and Le Medaglie di Matley. Gheza reports.

Watch the third episode of Stefano Ghisolfi attempting Bibliographie at Céüse, the world’s second 9c freed in summer 2020 by Alex Megos.

Interview with Adam Pustelnik, IFSC Chief Routesetter for Lead at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics.

Interview with Percy Bishton, IFSC Chief Routesetter for Bouldering at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics.

68-year-old Scottish mountaineer Rick Allen has lost his life while attempting to establish a new route on K2. In 2012, together with Sandy Allan, he completed the historic first traverse of the interminable Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat.

Towards the end of June French mountain guides Martin Elias, Victor Saucède, Jeremy Stagnetto and Jérôme Sullivan made the first ascent of Harvest Moon, a new route on Dansam West (6600m) above the Kondus Valley in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbed alpine style, the 1600m route is graded M6 WI6. Jérôme...

Italian alpinists Nicola Castagna and Gabriel Perenzoni have managed to climb all 82 peaks over 4,000 meters in the Alps. The trainee mountain guides set off on 4 May and required 80 days to complete the climbs.

Local climbers Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have launched a petition to save Lorünser Wändle, one of the most important crags in Vorarlberg, Austria currently at risk of being quarried.

Alpinists Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin and Alex Torres have made the first ascent of Cerveza, Pan y Ácido, a new mixed climb up the South Face of Concha de Caracol in the Cordillera Vilcanota massif in Peru.

Last night Stefano Ghisolfi from Italy and Eliška Adamovská from the Czech republic won the fourth stage of the Lead World Cup in Briançon in France.