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Ice Climbing World Cup 2017: Russians win it big in Beijing
13/01/2017 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2017: Russians win it big in Beijing
Last weekend the second stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 took place in Beijing, China; Russians Nikolai Kuzovlev and Maria Tolokonina won the Lead event, wile the Speed event was won by their teammates Radomir Proshchenko and Ekaterina Koshcheeva.
Piz Badile Cassin route climbed in winter by Luca Godenzi and Carlo Micheli
13/01/2017 - Alpinism
Piz Badile Cassin route climbed in winter by Luca Godenzi and Carlo Micheli
Alpinism: Luca Godenzi reports about a rare winter ascent of the famous Cassin route on the NE Face of Badile, carried out from 30 to 31 December 2016 with Carlo Micheli.
 All-in, difficult new ice and mixed climb on Sas del Pegorer in the Dolomites
12/01/2017 - Alpinism
All-in, difficult new ice and mixed climb on Sas del Pegorer in the Dolomites
Philipp Angelo, Fabrizio della Rossa and Thomas Gianola report about their first ascent of All-in (AI 6-, M7, R), a difficult new ice and mixed climb up the north face of Sas Pegorer, Gran Vernel (Marmolada, Dolomites).
Škrlatica in Slovenia sees first winter ascents by Matej Arh and Klemen Gerbec
11/01/2017 - Alpinism
Škrlatica in Slovenia sees first winter ascents by Matej Arh and Klemen Gerbec
In December 2016 Matej Arh and Klemen Gerbec made the first winter ascents of two summer routes up the north face of Mt Škrlatica in Slovenia. In their winter version these routes offer outstanding and challenging winter climbing in one of the most beautiful and remote corners of the Julian...
Jeff Mercier climbs new variation to Beyond Good and Evil on Aiguille des Pélerins, Mont Blanc
10/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Mercier climbs new variation to Beyond Good and Evil on Aiguille des Pélerins, Mont Blanc
Mountaineering in the Mont Blanc massif: on the north face of Aiguille des Pélerins (3318m) Jeff Mercier, together with Lucien Boucansaud, Xavier Cailhol and Bastien Lardat, has climbed 'Les Flammes de l’enfer’, a new variation to the famous ice and mixed climb Beyond Good and Evil.
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the north face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...
Ines Papert and Luka Lindič pull off first repeat of Pizzo Badile Nordest Supercombo
04/01/2017 - Alpinism
Ines Papert and Luka Lindič pull off first repeat of Pizzo Badile Nordest Supercombo
Winter mountaineering: Ines Papert reports about the first repeat of the ice and mixed climb ‘Nordest Supercombo' (800m, M7, R) up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile, carried out on 30/12/2016 together with Luka Lindič
Julian Alps, new winter climb on Cima Verde del Montasio
03/01/2017 - Alpinism
Julian Alps, new winter climb on Cima Verde del Montasio
Winter mountaineering in the Julian Alps: on 18 December 2016 Enrico Mosetti, Alberto Giassi and Davide Limongi made the first ascent of ‘Amici per sempre’ (IV /4+, 350m), a new mixed climb up the north face of Cima Verde del Monte Montasio.
Malga Spora: another Brenta Dolomites climbing gem
29/12/2016 - Climbing
Malga Spora: another Brenta Dolomites climbing gem
Alessio Tait introduces the stunning crag Malga Spora at Croz of Giovan. Another little sport climbing gem in the Brenta Dolomites.
A Winter's Tale / Tre Cime di Lavaredo trilogy by Christoph Hainz and Simon Kehrer
28/12/2016 - Alpinism
A Winter's Tale / Tre Cime di Lavaredo trilogy by Christoph Hainz and Simon Kehrer
On 23 December 2016 on the Drei Zinnen / Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz completed a beautiful winter trilogy by climbing Via Comici-Dimai up Cima Grande (in 2:30), Via Cassin up Cima Ovest (in 3:25), and Spigolo Giallo up Cima Piccola (in 1:28). The South...
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski Titanic video
24/12/2016 - Alpinism
Eiger north face / Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski Titanic video
The video of Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski making the first ascent of ‘Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 2000m), a new climb up the north face of the Eiger (Switzerland).
4000m Peaks in the Alps. Ski Touring and Steep Skiing
4000m Peaks in the Alps. Ski Touring and Steep Skiing
Francesco Vascellari and Loris de Barba introduce '4000m Peaks in the Alps. Ski Touring and Steep Skiing', their guidebook to the 4000m mountains in the Alps. Three routes presented on planetmountain.com: Barre des Écrins, Pizzo Bernina and Dent d'Hérens.
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
19/12/2016 - Climbing
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.
Mountaineering: Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel breach unclimbed North Face of Gimmigela East in Nepal
15/12/2016 - Alpinism
Mountaineering: Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel breach unclimbed north face of Gimmigela East in Nepal
Climbing from 8 - 10 November 2016, the Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel completed the first ascent of the north face of Gimmigela East (7005m), Nepal.
Pleishornwasserfall, new ice climb on Ortler North Face
15/12/2016 - Alpinism
Pleishornwasserfall, new ice climb on Ortler north face
On 13 December 2016 Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayer made the first ascent of Pleishornwasserfall (260m, WI6, M7+, A1), the obvious drip that plunges down the Northeast Face of Ortler, at 3905m the highest mountain in Italy’s South Tyrol.
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
13/12/2016 - Alpinism
Eiger north face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
Interview with British alpinist Tom Ballard after the first ascent of ‘Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 2000m), a new climb up the north face of the Eiger (Switzerland), first ascended together with Marcin Tomaszewski from 29 November to 6 December 2016.