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New Spanish climbs on Norway's Lofoten Islands
22/08/2017 - Alpinism
New Spanish climbs on Norway's Lofoten Islands
Between 2016 and 2017 a series of new rock climbs were first ascended on the Lofoten Islands, Norway, by the Spanish climbers Guille Cuadrado, Gerber Cucurell, Pau Gómez, Jordi Esteve and Felix Queipo established up peaks Marklitinden, Storskiva, Merraflestinden and Moltbaertinden.
Denali, Alaska: Slovak Direct repeated by David Bacci and Luca Moroni
11/07/2017 - Alpinism
Denali, Alaska: Slovak Direct repeated by David Bacci and Luca Moroni
On their first climbing trip to Alaska, alpinists David Bacci and Luca Moroni pulled off the first Italian repeat of the Slovak Direct route up Denali (6194m) in Alaska.
Fabian Buhl rope-solo 8c first ascent / Ganesha at Loferer Alm in Austria
16/03/2017 - Climbing
Fabian Buhl rope-solo 8c first ascent / Ganesha at Loferer Alm in Austria
In summer 2016 German rock climber made the first free ascent of Ganesha, a seven-pitch 8c he had established alone up the Sonnwendwand at Loferer Alm in Austria. Buhl climbed rope solo.
New trad climbs in Ala Daglar, Turkey
15/09/2015 - Alpinism
New trad climbs in Ala Daglar, Turkey
Maurizio Oviglia and Recep Ince recommend some new trad climbs in Pınarbaşı Canyon (Ala Daglar, Turkey).
Melloblocco 2015: the start of the universal bouldering edition
30/04/2015 - Events
Melloblocco 2015: the start of the universal bouldering edition
Melloblocco 2015 kicks off this morning with plenty of climbing. From today until Sunday 3 May Italy’s Val Masino and Val di Mello will host the 12th edition of Melloblocco, the biggest climbing and bouldering meeting in the world.
Melloblocco 2015 - the universal edition
12/03/2015 - Events
Melloblocco 2015 - the universal edition
The biggest bouldering and climbing meeting in the world will be held in Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy, from 30 April to 3 May 2015.A universal edition to celebrate, for the 12th consecutive year, the beauty of climbing in these splendid valleys.
Jean-Pierre Ouellet: new rock climbs at Moab
17/11/2014 - Climbing
Jean-Pierre Ouellet: new rock climbs at Moab
At Moab (USA) Jean-Pierre Ouellet has made the first ascents of two difficult new climbs: Zebras and Moonbeam (5.13-) and Green Belly 5.13-
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
02/10/2014 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
On 26 and 27 September 2014 Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias repeated Directe de l'Amitie on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc). A route first climbed in winter 1974 by Louis Audoubert, Michel Feuillarade, Marc Galy and Yannick Seigneur, described by Corrado Korra Pesce as 'the most...
Astro Zap on Trident du Tacul by Bassanini and Camurri
14/08/2014 - Alpinism
Astro Zap on Trident du Tacul by Bassanini and Camurri
On 4/09/2013 Giovani Bassanini and Lamberto Camurri made the first ascent of Astro Zap (7a), a line that climbs the crack avoided by the Via Diretta Bonatti, first climbed by Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli in 1963 up Le Trident du Tacul in the Mont Blanc massif.
Aiguille du Plan, first free ascent of the Bonington - Tejada-Flores corner by Pesce and Mercier
15/04/2014 - Alpinism
Aiguille du Plan, first free ascent of the Bonington - Tejada-Flores corner by Pesce and Mercier
On 10/04/2014 Jeff Mercier and Corrado Pesce made the first free acent of the huge corner on the route established by Chris Bonington and Lito Tejada-Flores on 28 - 29 July 1965 up the West Face of Aiguille du Plan, Mont Blanc.
Fitz Roy Traverse: Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold complete first ascent in Patagonia
18/02/2014 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Traverse: Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold complete first ascent in Patagonia
From 12 - 16 February 2014 the Americans Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the coveted first traverse of the major ridge line of Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Variant of Li-Cuore up the NE Face of Monte Agner, a mountaineering story
08/10/2013 - Alpinism
Variant of Li-Cuore up the NE Face of Monte Agner, a mountaineering story
Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata introduce their variation to Li-Cuore (450m, VII+, A3, VII- obl.) that climbs between the South Tyrolean route and Via Cuore up the NE Face of Monte Agner (Dolomites).
Sergey Nefedov frees climbs on Mount Morcheka, Crimea
01/06/2012 - Climbing
Sergey Nefedov frees climbs on Mount Morcheka, Crimea
Sergey Nefedov and partners have freed a number of old routes up Mount Morcheka in the Crimea mountain range in the Ukraine.
Andamento lento, first repeat and winter ascent by Baù and Geremia
04/04/2012 - Alpinism
Andamento lento, first repeat and winter ascent by Baù and Geremia
On 25-26/02/2012 Alessandro Baù and Enrico Geremia carried out the first repeat, and first winter ascent, of the route Andamento Lento in Val Scura (Dolomites), established by Gigi Dal Pozzo, Maurizio Fontana and Venturino De Bona in 1997. The report by Alessandro Baù.
Aguja Guillaumet, Patagonia
15/12/2011 - Alpinism
Aguja Guillaumet, Patagonia
The North Ridge of Aguja Guillaumet (2579m) in the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia was first climbed in 1981 by the Argentines Eduardo Brenner and Eduardo Moschioni. Damiano Barabino, Sergio De Leo and Marcello Sanguineti repeated the route on 8 December 2011 and finished up the Amy route.
Necronomicon, new roof crack in Canyonlands by Jean-Pierre
03/11/2011 - Climbing
Necronomicon, new roof crack in Canyonlands by Jean-Pierre
Jean-Pierre "Peewee" Ouellet has made the first ascent of Necronomicon 5.13d/5.14a beneath the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands, USA.