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Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
16/11/2018 - Alpinism
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
Italian alpinist Maurizio Giordani reports about his climbing expedition to Pakistan during which, with Massimo Faletti, he completed a stylish ascent of Water World, a beautiful and difficult big wall up the hitherto unclimbed Kiris Peak (5428m). The other expedition members included Manrico Dell’Agnola, Antonella Giacomin, Cristiano Marinello, Andrea Peron,...
Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini forge new mixed climb up Mt Prijakt in Austria
12/11/2018 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini forge new mixed climb up Mt Prijakt in Austria
Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini have made the first ascent of Sintflut, Deluge, a new ice and mixed climb up the north face of Mount Prijakt in Austria. Messini reports.
Adam Ondra almost onsights Salathé Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite
05/11/2018 - Climbing
Adam Ondra almost onsights Salathé Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite
Czech rock climber Adam Ondra has attempted but only just failed to onsight the Salathé Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.
Eleonora Delnevo & Co climb El Capitan Zodiac in Yosemite
12/10/2018 - Climbing
Eleonora Delnevo & Co climb El Capitan Zodiac in Yosemite
Eleonora Delnevo - the Italian paraclimber paralysed from the waist down after a mountaineering accident in 2015 - has climbed the Zodiac route on El Capitan in Yosemite together with Mauro Gibellini, Diego Pezzoli and Antonio Pozzi.
El Capitan Freerider: Alexander Huber Yosemite masterpiece celebrates 20th anniversary
05/10/2018 - Interviews
El Capitan Freerider: Alexander Huber Yosemite masterpiece celebrates 20th anniversary
Interview with German climber Alexander Huber 20 years after the first free ascent of Freerider, the famous big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Dolomites rock climbing: new outing above Val Gardena in Geisler group
25/09/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites rock climbing: new outing above Val Gardena in Geisler group
This summer the South Tyrolean alpinists Aaron Moroder and Matteo Vinatzer completed Nuvole Bianche, a rock climb on Sas dla Porta to the east of Sas Rigais in the Geisler group, Dolomites.
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
24/09/2018 - Alpinism
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
Matterhorn climbing: on the mountain’s South Face the Italian François Cazzanelli has completed Diretta allo Scudo, a new rock climb he established with Roberto Ferraris, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre and Marco Farina.
Federica Mingolla adds new climb to Aiguille Croux in Mont Blanc massif
21/09/2018 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla adds new climb to Aiguille Croux in Mont Blanc massif
The report by Federica Mingolla who, together with Gabriele Carrara, made the first ascent of L'isola che non c’è on Aiguille Croux above Val Veny in the Mont Blanc massif.
Giuliano Cameroni at Rocklands beams up The Smile
13/09/2018 - Climbing
Giuliano Cameroni at Rocklands beams up The Smile
Swiss climber Giuliano Cameroni reports about The Smile at Rocklands, South Africa, a boulder problem he freed at 8C which he believes is 'a contender for one of the best problems in the world'.
Thagas Valley / Nicolas Favresse reports of Karakorum climbing expedition
11/09/2018 - Alpinism
Thagas Valley / Nicolas Favresse reports of Karakorum climbing expedition
Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse provides details about the climbing expedition to the little-known Thagas Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan together with Mathieu Maynadier, Carlitos Molina and Jean-Louis Wertz. Two virgin 6000ers were climbed, while Maynadier was struck by rockfall and airlifted to safety.
Mente Demente new rock climb up Spiz of Lastia in the Italian Dolomites
10/09/2018 - Alpinism
Mente Demente new rock climb up Spiz of Lastia in the Italian Dolomites
Diego Toigo reports about the first ascent of Mente Demente, climbed on 17 August with Francesco Fent and Alberto Maschio up the NW Face of Spiz della Lastia, Agner, Dolomites
Blood Moon, Brits climb new route up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar
04/09/2018 - Climbing
Blood Moon, Brits climb new route up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar
Alan Carne, Calum Cunningham and Robbie Phillips have made the first ascent of Blood Moon (8a+, 700m) up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar.
Robert Jasper completes Stonecircle on Greenland solo trip
31/08/2018 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper completes Stonecircle on Greenland solo trip
German rock climber Robert Jasper has returned from his solo expedition to Greenland after having made the first ascent of Stonecircle (7c, 450m) up Molar Spire above the Angmassalik-Tasilaq Fjord.
Brette Harrington and Caro North tame their Crouching Tiger on Chinese Puzzle Wall, Canada
29/08/2018 - Climbing
Brette Harrington and Caro North tame their Crouching Tiger on Chinese Puzzle Wall, Canada
The alpinists Brette Harrington and Caro North, together with Chris Kalman, have made the first ascent of Crouching Tiger, a 500 m big wall with difficulties up to 5.12b+ on the Chinese Puzzle Wall in Canada.
Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák climb new route up Kyajo Ri in Nepal
24/08/2018 - Alpinism
Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák climb new route up Kyajo Ri in Nepal
Climbing in alpine style from 25 to 28 May 2018, the Czech mountaineers Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák made the first ascent of Lapse of Reason, a new route up Kyajo Ri (6186 m) in Nepal.
Agrodolce, new rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
12/08/2018 - Climbing
Agrodolce, new rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
On Castello di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites Giorgio Pirovano, Nicola Castagna and Sara Ongari established Agrodolce, a new 6-pitch rock climb first ascended ground-up, onsight, with bolts only at the belays and difficulties up to grade VII.