Neunerspitze, Fanis, Dolomites: Kofler, Gietl and Wenter shine on Somnium

Neunerspitze (Piza dales Nü in Ladin, Sasso delle Nove in Italian) in the Fanes group provides an almost unique climbing experience in the Dolomites, but in recent years this mountain has fallen off the radar. The long approach certainly contributes to the fact that the existing climbs are rarely repeated.

Some time ago we noticed a line in the middle of the south face that we simply couldn’t resist ...

With the help of an e-bike, the long ascent from Pederü to the Fanes hut can be reduced considerably and so in 2017 we got to work establishing our route ground-up. Due to the poor weather and various commitments we only succeeded in completing the line in 2018, after having two days on the wall. The route offers fabulous slab climbing, up exceptional rock, surpassed perhaps only by the panorama from the 2968m summit. The pitches and belays are protected with bolts, 2 medium sized Friends are nevertheless needed to integrate the insitu gear. Our route does not cross any existing climbs.

We made the first redpoint ascent of our route at the start of July 2019, thanks to the support of the Fanes hut and Frickys Climbersbar. A dream climb freed on a day dreams are made of…

We wish all those who repeat Somnium lots of fun!
Michael Kofler

TOPO: Somnium, Neunerspitze, Dolomites