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Pinne gialle first repeat at Tognazza by Andrea De Giacometti
31/08/2016 - Climbing
Pinne gialle first repeat at Tognazza by Andrea De Giacometti
Andrea De Giacometti has made the second ascent of Pinne gialle (8b/c, 120m), the multi-pitch route established and freed by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla in 2014 at Tognazza, Passo Rolle (TN), Dolomites.
Alexander Megos dashes up Dreamcatcher at Squamish in Canada
30/08/2016 - Climbing
Alexander Megos dashes up Dreamcatcher at Squamish in Canada
Interview with Alexander Megos who recently made the fourth ascent of Dreamcatcher at Squamish in Canada, the famous 9a sport climb freed by Chris Sharma in 2005.
Rock Master Festival 2016: Adam Ondra and Katharina Saurwein win the KO Boulder Contest
28/08/2016 - Competitions
Rock Master Festival 2016: Adam Ondra and Katharina Saurwein win the KO Boulder Contest
On Sunday 28 August 2016 Adam Ondra won the KO Boulder Contest of the 30th Rock Master, beating in a thrilling final Germany's Jan Hojer and France's Jeremy Bonder, joint second. Victory in the women's event went to Katharina Saurwein from Austria who beat Italy's Giorgia Tesio and Serbia's Stasa...
Romain Desgranges and Anak Verhoeven win the IFSC Climbing World Cup Lead at Arco
27/08/2016 - Competitions
Romain Desgranges and Anak Verhoeven win the IFSC Climbing World Cup Lead at Arco
Rock Master Festival 2016. At Arco Romain Desgranges (Fra) and Anak Verhoeven (Bel) win the 5th stage of Lead World Cup 2016. Jakob Schubert (Aut) and Jain Kim (Kor) place second, Dmitrii Fakiryanov (Rus) and Janja Garnbret (Slo) place third. Francesco Vettorata, the only Italian in the Final, finishes seventh.
The need to hammer in some pegs, to get lost in order to find yourself. By Giovanni Zaccaria
21/08/2016 - Alpinism
The need to hammer in some pegs, to get lost in order to find yourself. By Giovanni Zaccaria
Giovanni Zaccaria recalls the climb, carried out in December 2015 together with his partner Alice Lazzaro, of 'Per aspera ad astra'; not necessarily a new route, but certainly an adventure up the North Face of Campanile S. Marco (Marmarole, Dolomites) in memory of his grandfather Giuseppe Suppiej.
Baffin big wall climbing: the final concert
19/08/2016 - Alpinism
Baffin big wall climbing: the final concert
The final report by Nicolas Favresse about the recent two-month climbing trip to Baffin Island, together with Sean Villanueva, Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo De Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera that resulted in a series of new, long and difficult trad routes.
Renegade, new rock climb up Tofana di Rozes, Dolomites
10/08/2016 - Alpinism
Renegade, new rock climb up Tofana di Rozes, Dolomites
Peter Moser reports about Renegade (VIII-, 330m), a new multi-pitch rock climb he established together with Iwan Canins up Tofana di Rozes in the Dolomites.
Diamond Ridge, new route up Grandes Jorasses SSE Face. Interview with Simon Richardson
03/08/2016 - Alpinism
Diamond Ridge, new route up Grandes Jorasses SSE Face. Interview with Simon Richardson
Interview with Simon Richardson who, together with Michael Rinn, made the first ascent of Diamond Ridge (1600m, 5c, AO) from 28 - 30 July 2016. This new alpine climb breaches the SSE Face of Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc massif).
Cima Busazza, Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climb new Dolomites route
27/07/2016 - Alpinism
Cima Busazza, Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climb new Dolomites route
On 17 and 18 July 2016 Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climbed a new route up the immense SW Face of Cima Busazza (Civetta group, Dolomites). The 800m climb breaches difficulties up to VII/VII+, includes a short section of A2 aid, and is protected by trad gear and few pegs.
Baffin Island, Ragni return after new routes
26/07/2016 - Alpinism
Baffin Island, Ragni return after new routes
More news from the Italian-Belgian team comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo De Zaiacomo, Luca Schiera, Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva currently climbing on Baffin Island. The climbers have forged a further two new routes in Stewart valley and the Ragni di Lecco alpinists are now returning.
Classic climbs n. 1: Pisciadù NW Arête. By Ivo Ferrari
22/07/2016 - Alpinism
Classic climbs n. 1: Pisciadù NW Arête. By Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari climbs the North-West Arête, also known as Via W.H. on the West face of the Pisciadù (Sella, Dolomites). This classic outing was first climbed on 09/05/1971 by Heini Holzer and Sieglinde Walzl.
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
20/07/2016 - Alpinism
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
Thoughts about the history of mountaineering. The solo winter trilogy carried out by Ivan Ghirardini up the legendary three North Faces of the Alps: the Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses and Eiger. By Ivo Ferrari.
Baffin Island, new climbs and fresh information from the Italian-Belgian expedition
12/07/2016 - Alpinism
Baffin Island, new climbs and fresh information from the Italian-Belgian expedition
Updates directly from the Italian-Belgian team comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo De Zaiacomo, Luca Schiera, Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva currently climbing on Baffin Island. After having established a new big wall up Great Sail Peak (1,615m), the expedition has added a further two new routes to the Stewart...
São Tomé, new climb up Pico Cão Grande by Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah
07/07/2016 - Climbing
São Tomé, new climb up Pico Cão Grande by Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah
In June 2016 Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah made the first ascent of Nubivagant - Wandering in the clouds (455m, 5.13d/A0 8b) up Pico Cão Grande on the island of São Tomé, Africa.
Traumschiff at Cansla in the Dolomites
02/07/2016 - Alpinism
Traumschiff at Cansla in the Dolomites
Italian mountain guide Alberto De Giuli introduces Traumschiff, the classic multi-pitch sport climb established in 1986 by Simon Demetz and Karl Vinatzer up the Traumpfeiler face at Cansla, Meisules dla Biesces, Dolomites.
Gangstang NW Ridge first ascent by Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham
01/07/2016 - Alpinism
Gangstang NW Ridge first ascent by Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham
Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham have just made the first ascent of the beautiful NW Ridge of Gangstang (6162m) in the Himachal Pradesh Himalaya. They reached the summit on the 9th June and descended to base camp the next day completing a five day round trip.

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