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Universal Studio, new mixed climb on Rognon du Plan (Mont Blanc) by Jeff Mercier and Simon Chatelan
20/05/2016 - Alpinism
Universal Studio, new mixed climb on Rognon du Plan (Mont Blanc) by Jeff Mercier and Simon Chatelan
On 5 May 2016 Jeff Mercier and Simon Chatelan made the first ascent of 'Universal Studio', a new mixed climb graded M8/650m on Rognon du Plan (3601m) in the Mont Blanc massif, France.
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
19/04/2016 - Book-press
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
A book for dreamers: Savage arena by Joe Tasker. A story about a form of alpinism that has perhaps disappeared but which has certainly left its mark in history. The book review by Ivo Ferrari.
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
07/04/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin; Gave Ding (Nepal) by British mountaineers Mick...
Ahrntal, the video of the Schneebiger Nock avalanche fracture line
Ahrntal, the video of the Schneebiger Nock avalanche fracture line
The video of the fracture line of the avalanche that on Saturday, March 12, 2016 killed six ski mountaineers on Schneebiger Nock (3358m) in Ahrntal, Italy. This is reportedly the most deadly avalanche accident in the South Tyrol in 25 years.
El Condor Pasa, Slovaks climb new big wall in Cochamó valley, Chile
05/03/2016 - Alpinism
El Condor Pasa, Slovaks climb new big wall in Cochamó valley, Chile
Jozef Kristoffy, Martin Krasnansky and Vlado Linek have made the first ascent of El Condor Pasa (8b, 700m) on Cerro Trinidad Central in the Cochamo valley in Patagonia, Chile.
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
25/02/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
52 climbs carried out in 2015 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave - La Meije in France. During the 24th edition, Polish mountaineer Wojciech Kurtyka will receive the...
Karakoram Link Sar West climbed by Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman
24/02/2016 - Alpinism
Karakoram Link Sar West climbed by Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman
In July 2015 British alpinists Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman made the first ascent Link Sar West, a 6,938m summit in Pakistan’s Karakoram. The two climbed the Northwest Face via their route Fever Pitch.
New Japanese climbs in Argentine Patagonia
19/02/2016 - Alpinism
New Japanese climbs in Argentine Patagonia
In January and February 2016 the Japanese climbers Takaaki Nagato and Jumbo Katsutaka Yokoyama established two new routes in Patagonia: Knobmania (7c, 400m) up the west face of Aguja El Tridente and Pilar Canino (7b, 600m) up the west face of Cerro Piergiorgio.
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
17/02/2016 - Alpinism
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
Between 20 July and 9 September 2015 the Slovenian alpinists Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jošt - Matic made what are believed to be the first ascents of three previously unclimbed peaks in the India’s Raru valley: Khumchu Ri 6064m, Kun Long Ri 6058m and Ri Pok Te 6210m.
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
02/02/2016 - Climbing
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
From 2 - 21 December 2015 Octavio Aragon, Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah made the first ascent of El Son del Viento (5.12d, 420m) a new sports climb up the North Face of El Diente, Parque Nacional Cumbres de Monterrey, Mexico.
Gigi La Trottola, new Mulaz climb in the Dolomites by Baù, Migliorini, Zaccaria
12/01/2016 - Alpinism
Gigi La Trottola, new Mulaz climb in the Dolomites by Baù, Migliorini, Zaccaria
The report by Alessandro Baù who, in summer 2015 together with Claudio Migliorini and Giovanni Zaccaria, made the first ascent of Gigi La Trottola (IX, 450m) up the west face of Mulaz, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites.
Ortler Trinitas: Riegler brothers complete their South Tyrolean trilogy
11/01/2016 - Alpinism
Ortler Trinitas: Riegler brothers complete their South Tyrolean trilogy
Florian Riegler reports about his ascent of Trinitas (WI4, M5, 1000m), a probable new route up the NW Face of Ortler climbed on 27/12/2015 together with his brother Martin Riegler. With this ascent the two South Tyrolean alpinists have completed the trilogy of new routes that includes the summits of...
Fitz Roy climbed in a day by Colin Haley and Andy Wyatt
08/01/2016 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy climbed in a day by Colin Haley and Andy Wyatt
American alpinists Colin Haley and Andy Wyatt have made an astoundingly fast ascent of Fitz Roy in Patagonia, requiring just 21 hours and 8 minutes to climb the mountain via the Supercanaleta route and descend via the French route and return to the starting point.
Kei Taniguchi perishes on Mount Kuro in Japan
23/12/2015 - Alpinism
Kei Taniguchi perishes on Mount Kuro in Japan
Yesterday 22 December 2015 the body of missing Japanese alpinist Kei Taniguchi was found on Mount Kuro in Japan. In 2009 she had been the first woman to win the prestigious Piolet d'Or.
Jirishanca Chico and the Via dei Ragni climb in Peru
30/11/2015 - Alpinism
Jirishanca Chico and the Via dei Ragni climb in Peru
The trailer about the new Via dei Ragni (D+, 400m) climb up Jirishanca Chico in Peru, established by Silvano Arrigoni and Lorenzo Festorazzi on 08/08/2015.
La Divina Providencia, Franchini brothers forge new mixed climb on Nevado Churup in Peru
16/11/2015 - Alpinism
La Divina Providencia, Franchini brothers forge new mixed climb on Nevado Churup in Peru
On 2 June 2015 Tomas Franchini and Silvestro Franchini made the first ascent of La Divina Providencia, a new 650m mixed route with difficulties up to M7 on the west face of Nevado Churup (5495m), Cordillera Blanca, Peru.

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