474 News found

On 3/01/2015 Fulvio Zanetti and Francesco Beni made the first ascent of Due di picche (250mt, III, M5+, D7+) a new mixed route up the North Face of Spallone del Becco (Bergamasque Alps), Italy.

British mountain guide Matt Helliker has made what is believed to be the first ascent of two new mixed climbs on Tour Ronde in the Mont Blanc massif: Chancer (M6, 250m) climbed with Jon Bracey and Night Fever (M8, 250m), climbed with Nick Bullock.

The portrait of Massimo Piras, 62-year-old Italian alpinist, instructor at the Scuola Gervasutti di Torino, Academic of the Italian Alpine Club with over 100 new ice climbs to his name during 35 year of continues ice climbing. By Edoardo Falletta.

The report by Angelika Rainer about the Ouray Ice Festival, the ice climbing meeting andthe competition that took place from 8 - 11 January, won by Italian ice climber and Canada’s Will Gadd

At the end of December and at the start of January Lukas Runggaldier, Alex Peristi and Willi Comploi made the first ascent of Dlacion de Frea (WI6 / M6, 110m), a new ice and mixed climb in the Sella group, Dolomites.

Claudio Migliorini talks about the first ascent of two mixed climbs on Monte Nero di Presanella (Adamello - Presanella massif, Italy) carried out in 2013, Rolling Stones and Una via per te fatta in tre, as well as the first repeat of Wind of Change.

Currently there are numerous Italian teams climbing in Patagonia, in particular in the Chalten massif, where Cerro Torre was climbed via the Ragni route by Marcello Cominetti, Massimo Lucco, Francesco Salvaterra, Majori Marco, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli. The route's first ascent this season was made in September by Ermanno...

On Combe Maudite, in the Mont Blanc massif, two new ice and mixed routes have been climbed, Saumons et Glacons (M5+ WI5 R, 500m, Enrico Bonino, Luca Breveglieri, Olivier Colaye) and An... ice surprise (M7, W15, A1+, III, 350m Enrico Bonino, Giulia Venturelli). Report by Enrico Bonino.

The final report by Nicolas Favresse about the Greenland 2014 expedition, carried out together with Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Sean Villanueva. This final update includes the exploration at Gibbs Fjord, Baffin Island

On 29 and 30 May 2014 American alpinists John Frieh and Jess Roskelley made the first ascent of No Rest For the Wicked (IV+ AI6 M7), a difficult new route up the West Witches Tit in SE Alaska. The report by John Frieh.

On Wednesday, July 23 at Selva di Val Gardena, Dolomites, the 3rd Karl Unterkircher Award 2014 was given to Simon Anthamatten, Matthias Auer and Hansjörg Auer for their first ascent of the East Face of Kunyang Chhish, Karakorum / Pakistan.

On 10/04/2014 Jeff Mercier and Corrado Pesce made the first free acent of the huge corner on the route established by Chris Bonington and Lito Tejada-Flores on 28 - 29 July 1965 up the West Face of Aiguille du Plan, Mont Blanc.

On 28/03/2014 Riccardo Quaranta and Claudio Di Rienzo made the first ascent of The Boxer, a new mixed route upMonte Pandoro (Monte Miletto, Matese mountain chain), Molise, Italy.

On 15/03/2014 in Vallunga (Dolomites) Wolfgang Hell and Pavol Rajcan made the first ascent of Evoution, a new mixed pitch that caps La Strega, first ascended by Cristoforo Groaz and Giovanni Groaz in 1992). Overall difficulties of the 120m line check in at WI 5+ M9+.

On Saturday March 8, 2014 Philipp Angelo and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of Edle Mischung (M7 WI6 60°, 340m), a new ice and mixed climb up Ciampanil Mufreit, Sella, Dolomites. The report by Philipp Angelo.

Tito Arosio from Italy reports about the BMC International Winter Climbing Meet that took place in Scotland from 26 January to 2 February 2014.