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Roger Schaeli climbs the Eiger 50 times
04/09/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli climbs the Eiger 50 times
Swiss mountaineer Roger Schäli has celebrated his 50th complete ascent of the Eiger in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland.
French climb Civetta's Colonne d’Ercole onsight in Dolomites
24/08/2019 - Alpinism
French climb Civetta's Colonne d’Ercole onsight in Dolomites
Symon Welfringer reports about his repeat, with fellow French alpinists Antonin Cechini and Aurélien Vaissière, of Colonne d’Ercole up the NW Face of Civetta in the Dolomites. The 1200m route up Punta Tissi was first ascended by Alessandro Baù, Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini with difficulties up to IX and...
Picos de Europa: Iker Pou, Kico Cerda and Ion Gurutz add new climb to Tiro Pedabejo
22/08/2019 - Climbing
Picos de Europa: Iker Pou, Kico Cerda and Ion Gurutz add new climb to Tiro Pedabejo
Iker Pou, Kico Cerda and Ion Gurutz Lazkoz have made the first ascent of Dardara (200m 7c+/8a, 7b obligatory), a new climb up Tiro Pedabejo in Picos de Europa, Spain
Simon Messner and Barbara Vigl snap up their Ice Age on Punta del Pin, Dolomites
18/08/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Messner and Barbara Vigl snap up their Ice Age on Punta del Pin, Dolomites
On 15 August 2019 South Tyrolean alpinist Simon Messner and Austria's Barbara Vigl made the first ascent of Ice Age up Punta del Pin in the Prags Dolomites.
Luka Lindič fires End of Silence on Germany's Feuerhorn
12/08/2019 - Climbing
Luka Lindič fires End of Silence on Germany's Feuerhorn
Slovenian alpinist Luka Lindič has repeated End of Silence up Feuerhom (Berchtesgaden Alps, Germany). Freed by Thomas Huber in 1994, this multi-pitch 8b+ is considered one of the reference routes for alpine sports climbs.
All or nothing. By Hector Silva Peralta
09/08/2019 - Alpinism
All or nothing. By Hector Silva Peralta
The first of two parts written by Hector Silva Peralta, a Chilean mountaineer who lived in Italy for 9 years before traveling to Chile, Canada and Alaska pursuing his dream: to become a mountaineer.
Cashan West climbed in Peru by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, Manu Ponce
06/08/2019 - Alpinism
Cashan West climbed in Peru by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, Manu Ponce
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Manu Ponce have made the first ascent of Andean Kingdom (800m, 7a+), the first route up the North Face of Cashan West (5,686m) in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range of the Andes, Peru.
Gendarme du Cardinal / New rock climb in Mont Blanc massif
03/08/2019 - Alpinism
Gendarme du Cardinal / New rock climb in Mont Blanc massif
French alpinists Antoine Bletton and Sébastien Moatti have established Armand Marley (350m, 6a+), a new rock climb up Gendarme du Cardinal in the Mont Blanc massif.
Martin Feistl establishes Flugmeilengenerator ground-up and rope solo up Schwarze Wand
23/07/2019 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl establishes Flugmeilengenerator ground-up and rope solo up Schwarze Wand
Martin Feistl has completed the first ascent, rope solo and ground-up, of Flugmeilengenerator up Schwarze Wand in the Wetterstein massif in Germany
Janez Svoljšak, goodbye to the promising climber from Slovenia
19/07/2019 - Alpinism
Janez Svoljšak, goodbye to the promising climber from Slovenia
Slovenian alpinist Janez Svoljšak passed away on 15 July at base camp while on an expedition to climb Tahu Rutum (6650m), Karakorum, Pakistan. The promising mountaineer was just 25 years old.
Roger Schaeli, Stephan Siegrist establish Silberrücken up Jungfrau in Switzerland
17/07/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli, Stephan Siegrist establish Silberrücken up Jungfrau in Switzerland
Swiss alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli have made the first ascent of Silberrücken up Rotbrätt on the West Face of Jungfrau. With difficulties up to 8a+, all pitches have been freed individually and a one-day redpoint is still outstanding.
Aiguille Noire, Pilier Rouge du Brouillard and Mont Blanc. Integral 2.0
10/07/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguille Noire, Pilier Rouge du Brouillard and Mont Blanc. Integral 2.0
Denis Trento reports about a fast ascent of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey carried out by Marco Farina and Gabriele Carrara combined, the next day with Trento himself, with the Via Bonatti - Oggioni up the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard and the summit of Mont Blanc.
Cala Cimenti summits and skis Nanga Parbat
05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Cala Cimenti summits and skis Nanga Parbat
Italian alpinist Carlo Alberto Cala Cimenti has climbed Nanga Parbat (8126m, Karakorum, Pakistan) with the Russians Vitaly Lazo and Anton Pugovkin. Cimenti and Lazo managed to descend on skis from just below the summit.
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of:...
Arc'teryx Alpine Academy 2019, film premieres and top speakers at the Alpine Village
25/06/2019 - Alpinism
Arc'teryx Alpine Academy 2019, film premieres and top speakers at the Alpine Village
Film premieres and top speakers feature highly in the Alpine Village program of the Arcteryx Alpine Academy 2019, the unique event from 4 - 7 July for climbers of all abilities wishing to learn more about climbing and alpinism directly at Chamonix Mont Blanc.
Karl Egloff sets new Denali Speed record in Alaska
23/06/2019 - Alpinism
Karl Egloff sets new Denali Speed record in Alaska
Ecuadorian - Swiss mountain guide Karl Egloff has set a new speed record on Denali in Alaska, climbing the West Buttress route in 7:40 and returning to his starting point in 11:44. In doing so he beat the previous fastest known time set in 2014 by Kilian Jornet Burgarda.