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Backstage revealed on Kleine Zinne, in Tre Cime di Lavaredo, climbed by Simon Gietl, Vittorio Messini
11/10/2020 - Alpinism
Backstage revealed on Kleine Zinne, in Tre Cime di Lavaredo, climbed by Simon Gietl, Vittorio Messini
In spring 2019 Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Backstage, a 350m multi-pitch with difficulties up to VIII+/R3 on the south face of Kleine Zinne / Cima Piccola, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites. Messini reports.
Climbing in Aladaglar, Turkey: Zorbey Aktuyun adds difficult trad route, completes Orient rope solo
06/10/2020 - Climbing
Climbing in Aladaglar, Turkey: Zorbey Aktuyun adds difficult trad route, completes Orient rope solo
Turkish rock climber Zorbey Aktuyun has made the first ascent of the 8a trad climb Kült at Pınarbaşı Canyon in the Aladağlar massif. Furthermore, on the striking Parmakkaya obelisk he has made a rope solo ascent of the classic Orient climb, established by Helmut Gargitter and Pauli Trenkwalder.
Tom Hornbein, Everest West Ridge pioneer, in American Alpine Club Legacy Series
05/10/2020 - Alpinism
Tom Hornbein, Everest West Ridge pioneer, in American Alpine Club Legacy Series
A video tribute to Tom Hornbein, the formidable American mountaineer famous above all for his first ascent of the West Ridge of Everest in 1963 with Willi Unsoeld, by the American Alpine Club Legacy Series.
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer
30/09/2020 - Alpinism
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer
Martin Sieberer reports about his repeats with Hannes Hohenwarter of Locker vom Hocker on Schüsselkar, Tschechenplatte in the Karwendel and Pumprisse in the Wilder Kaiser. Three classic limestone trad climbs in Tyrol, Austria, climbed one day after the next, and reached by train and bike.
Nebelgeist climbed by Simon Messner, Barbara Vigl on Schüsselkar, Austria
25/09/2020 - Alpinism
Nebelgeist climbed by Simon Messner, Barbara Vigl on Schüsselkar, Austria
Barbara Vigl reports about the first ascent of Nebelgeist, established this summer with Simon Messner on Söllerköpfe on Schüsselkar in Austria's Wetterstein mountain chain.
John Gill, the father of modern bouldering, in American Alpine Club Legacy Series
20/09/2020 - Climbing
John Gill, the father of modern bouldering, in American Alpine Club Legacy Series
A video tribute to John Gill, considered by many the father of modern bouldering, by the American Alpine Club Legacy Series.
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
02/09/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
The report and words about mountaineering from the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded to the Austrian mountaineer Heinz Mariacher celebrated at Reinhold Messner's Firmian Castle. Mariacher is the eighth alpinist to receive the prestigious award after Messner himself, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Eiger Odyssee climbed in a day by Nicolas Favresse & Sébastien Berthe
01/09/2020 - Alpinism
Eiger Odyssee climbed in a day by Nicolas Favresse & Sébastien Berthe
Belgian climbers Nicolas Favresse and Sébastien Berthe have repeated Odyssee, one of the hardest rock climbs on the North Face of the the Eiger in Switzerland.
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney
16/08/2020 - Alpinism
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney
Italian mountaineer Leonardo Gheza reports about his solo ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney in the Mont Blanc massif on 6/08/2020. This might well be the first solo ascent in just a single day. In any case it was an amazing experience on one of the most famous faces...
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe bike & climb the Alps
11/08/2020 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe bike & climb the Alps
Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse are currently on a bike and climbing trip across the Alps. The Belgian climbers have made swift work of Silbergeier and Headless Children in the Rätikon massif and are now cycling towards Wilder Kaiser in Austria.
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
08/08/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
Yesterday afternoon Matteo Pasquetto, the talented Italian alpinist and aspirant mountain guide, lost his life while descending from the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
05/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède
19/07/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède
French alpinist and mountain guide Jérôme Sullivan reports about Mad Max, a new route up the East Face of Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif established from 8-9 July 2020 with Jérémy Brauge and Victor Saucède.
Sami Koponen repeats Kesäturkki, 8c DWS at Punkaharju in Finland
17/07/2020 - Climbing
Sami Koponen repeats Kesäturkki, 8c DWS at Punkaharju in Finland
Finnish rock climber Sami Koponen has made the second ascent of Kesäturkki, an 8c deep water solo at Punkaharju established in 2016 by Nalle Hukkataival.
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
16/07/2020 - Alpinism
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
Matteo Della Bordella, president of the Ragni di Lecco mountaineering club, reports about Incroyable, the superb and difficult new route on Red Pillar of Brouillard (Mont Blanc) first ascended on 30 June and 1 July with Matterhorn mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. The first free team ascent was...
Red Pillar of Brouillard: new Mont Blanc rock climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
03/07/2020 - Alpinism
Red Pillar of Brouillard: new Mont Blanc rock climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have established Incroyable, a new rock climb up the famous Red Pillar of Brouillard on the Italian side of Mont Blanc.

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