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Adam Ondra sees first light on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
19/10/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra sees first light on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
During his first visit to Yosemite, USA, Czech climber Adam Ondra has immediately begun attempting 'Dawn Wall', the hardest big wall climb in world freed on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson.
Le Petit Toit, a eulogy to the madness of bouldering at Fontainebleau
11/10/2016 - Climbing
Le Petit Toit, a eulogy to the madness of bouldering at Fontainebleau
The exhilarating video of the attempts to climb Le Petit Toit, a classic boulder problem put up by Jo Montchaussé at the sector 95.2 in Fontainebleau, France.
Ulju Mountain Film Festival, right first time in South Korea
11/10/2016 - Events
Ulju Mountain Film Festival, right first time in South Korea
From September 30 to October 4, 2016, the first Uiju Mountain Film Festival took place in South Korea. Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner was the Honorary guest, while 24 films took part in the competition. The Festival Grand Prize was awarded to Jurek by Paweł Wysoczański and the inclusion of our...
Wenden, Fabio Palma and Paolo Spreafico create La lunga attesa in Switzerland
04/10/2016 - Alpinism
Wenden, Fabio Palma and Paolo Spreafico create La lunga attesa in Switzerland
Paolo Spreafico reports about 'La lunga attesa', the new rock climb established together with Fabio Palma up the marvellous Wenden limestone in Switzerland.
Kalymnos climbing, new crags Arginonta Valley and Black Buddha
03/10/2016 - Climbing
Kalymnos climbing, new crags Arginonta Valley and Black Buddha
Aris Theodoropoulos introduces Arginonta Valley and Black Buddha, two new crags on the island of Kalymnos, Greece.
Ines Papert climbs Scaramouche on Hoher Göll, Berchtesgaden Alps
27/09/2016 - Alpinism
Ines Papert climbs Scaramouche on Hoher Göll, Berchtesgaden Alps
On Hoher Göll in the Berchtesgadener Alps, German rock climber and alpinist Ines Papert has repeated Scaramouche (300m, 8a), a rarely repeated climb put up by the Huber brothers in 1989.
Nordwestwand, first free ascent up Wetterstein’s Schwarze Wand
21/09/2016 - Alpinism
Nordwestwand, first free ascent up Wetterstein’s Schwarze Wand
In August 2016 Xaver Mayr and Thomas Holler made the first free ascent of Nordwestwand (300m, VIII) on Schwarze Wand, Wetterstein.
Val Masino, new Mongolfiera rock climb in memory of Pietro Biasini
15/09/2016 - Alpinism
Val Masino, new Mongolfiera rock climb in memory of Pietro Biasini
On the Mongolfiera face (Val Masino, Italy) Daniele Bianchi and Simone Pedeferri have made the first ascent of 'Pana' (8b, 265m). The route is named in honour of Pietro Biasini.
Siula Grande virgin East Face climbed by Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain
07/09/2016 - Alpinism
Siula Grande virgin East Face climbed by Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain
In August 2016 French alpinists Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain ascended the East Pillar and SE Ridge of Siula Grande in Peru via their new route 'Le bruit des glaçons' (ED / 1400m / 6c WI5).
Rock Junior & Under 14 Cup: the future of climbing at Arco
05/09/2016 - Competitions
Rock Junior & Under 14 Cup: the future of climbing at Arco
From 2 - 4 September at Arco, Italy, more than 200 young athletes aged between 7 -13 from 22 different countries took part in the Under 14 Cup climbing competition with its three disciplines Boulder, Lead and Speed. The Rock Junior climbing celebration came to an end with the traditional...
Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret win 30th Rock Master Trophy
28/08/2016 - Competitions
Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret win 30th Rock Master Trophy
Adam Ondra (Cze) and Janja Garnbret (Slo) win the 30th Rock Master Trophy at Arco via the Duel competition formula. Austria's Jakob Schubert and Max Rudigier place second and third respectively, while in the women's event Katharina Posch (Aut) placed second, ahead of Anak Verhoeven (Bel), third.
Rock Master Festival 2016: Adam Ondra and Katharina Saurwein win the KO Boulder Contest
28/08/2016 - Competitions
Rock Master Festival 2016: Adam Ondra and Katharina Saurwein win the KO Boulder Contest
On Sunday 28 August 2016 Adam Ondra won the KO Boulder Contest of the 30th Rock Master, beating in a thrilling final Germany's Jan Hojer and France's Jeremy Bonder, joint second. Victory in the women's event went to Katharina Saurwein from Austria who beat Italy's Giorgia Tesio and Serbia's Stasa...
Rock Master Festival 2016: Lead World Cup and Arco Rock Legends on Friday
24/08/2016 - Competitions
Rock Master Festival 2016: Lead World Cup and Arco Rock Legends on Friday
Within the context of the Rock Master Festival 2016, the Lead World Cup and the Speed World Cup now return to Italy. 199 athletes from 28 different nations will compete on Friday 26 and on Saturday 27 August at the Arco Climbing Stadium (Garda Trentino). Sunday’s competitions continue with the...
Ötztal, new rock climb up Kristallwand by Hansjörg Auer and Alexander Blümel
23/08/2016 - Alpinism
Ötztal, new rock climb up Kristallwand by Hansjörg Auer and Alexander Blümel
Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel have established 'The loss of the Demantoid', a new multi-pitch rock climb up the Kristallwand face on Kirchkogel (3280m) in Austria. The route was established in memory of their friend Gerhard Fiegl.
Caroline Ciavaldini / Turkey Crack at Cadarese
12/08/2016 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini / Turkey Crack at Cadarese
In mid-May French rock climber Caroline Ciavaldini made a rare ascent of Turkey Crack, an 8a trad climb at Cadarese. This is the story of her rare ascent.
Steve House / knowing yourself
11/08/2016 - Alpinism
Steve House / knowing yourself
American alpinist Steve House shares his thoughts about how failing wisely provides interior growth. Originally posted only on facebook, House has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.