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Nordwestwand, first free ascent up Wetterstein’s Schwarze Wand
21/09/2016 - Alpinism
Nordwestwand, first free ascent up Wetterstein’s Schwarze Wand
In August 2016 Xaver Mayr and Thomas Holler made the first free ascent of Nordwestwand (300m, VIII) on Schwarze Wand, Wetterstein.
Val Masino, new Mongolfiera rock climb in memory of Pietro Biasini
15/09/2016 - Alpinism
Val Masino, new Mongolfiera rock climb in memory of Pietro Biasini
On the Mongolfiera face (Val Masino, Italy) Daniele Bianchi and Simone Pedeferri have made the first ascent of 'Pana' (8b, 265m). The route is named in honour of Pietro Biasini.
Siula Grande virgin East Face climbed by Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain
07/09/2016 - Alpinism
Siula Grande virgin East Face climbed by Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain
In August 2016 French alpinists Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain ascended the East Pillar and SE Ridge of Siula Grande in Peru via their new route 'Le bruit des glaçons' (ED / 1400m / 6c WI5).
Rock Junior & Under 14 Cup: the future of climbing at Arco
05/09/2016 - Competitions
Rock Junior & Under 14 Cup: the future of climbing at Arco
From 2 - 4 September at Arco, Italy, more than 200 young athletes aged between 7 -13 from 22 different countries took part in the Under 14 Cup climbing competition with its three disciplines Boulder, Lead and Speed. The Rock Junior climbing celebration came to an end with the traditional...
Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret win 30th Rock Master Trophy
28/08/2016 - Competitions
Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret win 30th Rock Master Trophy
Adam Ondra (Cze) and Janja Garnbret (Slo) win the 30th Rock Master Trophy at Arco via the Duel competition formula. Austria's Jakob Schubert and Max Rudigier place second and third respectively, while in the women's event Katharina Posch (Aut) placed second, ahead of Anak Verhoeven (Bel), third.
Rock Master Festival 2016: Adam Ondra and Katharina Saurwein win the KO Boulder Contest
28/08/2016 - Competitions
Rock Master Festival 2016: Adam Ondra and Katharina Saurwein win the KO Boulder Contest
On Sunday 28 August 2016 Adam Ondra won the KO Boulder Contest of the 30th Rock Master, beating in a thrilling final Germany's Jan Hojer and France's Jeremy Bonder, joint second. Victory in the women's event went to Katharina Saurwein from Austria who beat Italy's Giorgia Tesio and Serbia's Stasa...
Rock Master Festival 2016: Lead World Cup and Arco Rock Legends on Friday
24/08/2016 - Competitions
Rock Master Festival 2016: Lead World Cup and Arco Rock Legends on Friday
Within the context of the Rock Master Festival 2016, the Lead World Cup and the Speed World Cup now return to Italy. 199 athletes from 28 different nations will compete on Friday 26 and on Saturday 27 August at the Arco Climbing Stadium (Garda Trentino). Sunday’s competitions continue with the...
Ötztal, new rock climb up Kristallwand by Hansjörg Auer and Alexander Blümel
23/08/2016 - Alpinism
Ötztal, new rock climb up Kristallwand by Hansjörg Auer and Alexander Blümel
Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel have established 'The loss of the Demantoid', a new multi-pitch rock climb up the Kristallwand face on Kirchkogel (3280m) in Austria. The route was established in memory of their friend Gerhard Fiegl.
Caroline Ciavaldini / Turkey Crack at Cadarese
12/08/2016 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini / Turkey Crack at Cadarese
In mid-May French rock climber Caroline Ciavaldini made a rare ascent of Turkey Crack, an 8a trad climb at Cadarese. This is the story of her rare ascent.
Steve House / knowing yourself
11/08/2016 - Alpinism
Steve House / knowing yourself
American alpinist Steve House shares his thoughts about how failing wisely provides interior growth. Originally posted only on facebook, House has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič climb Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit
30/07/2016 - Alpinism
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič climb Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit
On 12 July 2016 Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič reached the summit of Broad Peak. Two weeks later they climbed the Northwest Ridge of Gasherbrum IV, reaching the North Summit (7900m) on 26 July 2016.
Janja Garnbret and Domen Škofic score Slovenian double at Briançon
28/07/2016 - Climbing
Janja Garnbret and Domen Škofic score Slovenian double at Briançon
The third stage of the Lead World Cup 2016 was won on 23 July at Briançon in France by the Slovenians Janja Garnbret and Domen Škofic.
Alexander Megos climbing Hubble
28/07/2016 - Climbing
Alexander Megos climbing Hubble
The video of Germany’s Alexander Megos climbing Hubble at Raven Tor, UK, narrated by British climber Jerry Moffat.
Mario Dalmaviva, a tribute by PlanetMountain
25/07/2016 - Book-press
Mario Dalmaviva, a tribute by PlanetMountain
Last week Mario Dalmaviva left us after loosing his long battle against illness. In 2000, as director of Vivalda Editori, he played a vital role in the birth of PlanetMountain.
Lead World Cup 2016: Janja Garnbret and Sean McColl victorious in Villars
18/07/2016 - Competitions
Lead World Cup 2016: Janja Garnbret and Sean McColl victorious in Villars
The second stage of IFSC Lead World Cup took place in Villars, Switzerland last weekend and was won by Janja Garnbret and Sean McColl. The fourth stage of the Speed World Cup was won by Marcin Dzienski of Poland and Anouck Jaubert of France.
Only one climbing God: the grade!
14/07/2016 - Climbing
Only one climbing God: the grade!
Motivated by debates on facebook, the Italian climber and photographer Riky Felderer shares his point of view about an issue that knows no end: climbing grades.

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