1156 News found

On Cima Cee in Val di Tovel, Brenta Dolomites, Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi have made the first ascent of Fine di un’Epoca, the end of an era, dedicated to Larcher’s father Renato. Larcher provides the report.

The historic Cassin - Ratti route the north face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Dolomites, established by Riccardo Cassin and Vittorio Ratti with two bivouacs from 28-30 August 1935, is a landmark in climbing history. Italian Mountain Guide Carlo Cosi recalls his summer 2019 repeat with Sara Mastel.

Marco Sappa reports about the first ascent of La Fessura di Gianfri, a difficult trad crack climb at the historic crag Nid Des Hirondelles in Valgrisenche, Valle d’Aosta, Italy. The route is dedicated to his father Gianfranco Sappa, a Courmayeur Mountain Guide, who perished in a climbing accident in 2019.

On the famous Aguglia di Goloritzè tower above Cala Goloritzè in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia has rebolted Sole Incantatore, the most repeated multi-pitch rock climb on the island. Oviglia himself established the route in 1995.

Hannes Hofer reports about the repeat carried out on 11 January 2020 with Mark Oberlechner of Tiroler Wasser, Acqua Tirolese, a mixed climb up Piz Ciavazes (Sella, Dolomites) established in 2013 by Kurt Astner and Rudolf Hauser.

Chouca at Buoux is one of those routes that has marked the history of sport climbing. First ascended in 1985 by Marc Le Menestrel, it was recently repeated by his daughter Eline Le Menestrel. This was an excellent pretext to find out more about this legendary climb and why...

Belgian alpinist Nicolas Favresse reports about another two routes climbed with Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll on Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia: Beggars Banket (7a, 400m) first ascended on the East Face directly above the Whillans ramp and, on the South Face, the first repeat and first free ascent of Historia interminable (6c,...

We are called upon to face one of the biggest tests of our time, one the must deal with the utmost difficulties. In order to do so we must use all our strength and experience. And we must do it all together. Only then will everything be fine.

Interview with South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl after his solitary winter traverse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. From 24 to 25 February the 35-year-old climbed Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola, Punta di Frida and Cima Piccolissima.

Austrian mountain guide Albert Leichtfried reports about his first ascent, with Benedikt Purner, of the mixed climb up the Murfrëitturm tower in the Sella group of the Dolomites.

On 9 February 2020 Julien Herry and Yannick Boissenot made what is likely to be the first ski and snowboard descent of the Boeuf - Sara couloir on Aiguille du Peigne in the Mont Blanc massif. Herry reports.

Winter mountaineering in the Zoldo Dolomites: on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero the mountaineers Mirco Grasso and Alvaro Lafuente have made the first ascent of Apus, a mixed route that shares the first 5 pitches of Madre Tierra then ascends an evident gully all the way to the summit. Grasso reports

South Tyrolean mountain guide Hannes Pfeifhofer reports about the first ascent of Zsigmondycouloir on the Zsigmondykopf up Elferkofel in Sexten Dolomites, established with Hannes Egarter

On 25/01/2020 alpinists Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet made the first ascent of Fury Road (600m, M6 WI6 45°), a new mixed climb up the north face of the Rochers de Gagnières, not far from the Dent du Midi mountain range in the Chablais Alps in Switzerland. Chatelan report.

Belgian rock climber Siebe Vanhee reports about his ascents of three big wall climbs in Cochamó valley in Chilean Patagonia: repeats of Sundance on Cerro Trinidad with Diego Diazaguilera and El Condor Pasa on Trinidad Central with Max Didier, and the first ascent of Jardines de Piedras on Cerro la...

Italian alpinist Matteo Della Bordella has repeated Itaca nel Sole on the Caporal in Valle Orco. Established in 1975 by Gian Piero Motti and Guido Morello, this multi-pitch route was freed in 2003 by Cristian Brenna.