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Ralf Dujmovits, dream vanishes of climbing Everest without supplementary oxygen
05/06/2017 - Alpinism
Ralf Dujmovits, dream vanishes of climbing Everest without supplementary oxygen
At the end of May the German mountaineer Ralf Dujmovits was forced to abandon his attempt of climbing Everest without supplementary oxygen due to the strong winds and snowfall at 8,580 meters. In 2009, Dujmovits completed all fourteen 8000ers without O2, except for the highest mountain in the world.
Christoph Hainz, climbing and mountaineering from the Dolomites to the world's biggest walls
31/05/2017 - Interviews
Christoph Hainz, climbing and mountaineering from the Dolomites to the world's biggest walls
Interview with South Tyrolean mountain guide Christoph Hainz, one of the world's most talented alpinists and climbers.
Hervé Barmasse and David Göttler, 13 hours up the South Face of Shisha Pangma
23/05/2017 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse and David Göttler, 13 hours up the South Face of Shisha Pangma
On Sunday, May 21, 2017, Hervé Barmasse from Italy and and David Göttler from Germany climbed the 2200m southwest face of Shisha Pangma (Tibet, Himalaya) in just 13 hours and in pure alpine style.
Giuliano Cameroni climbs best problem ever in Valle Bavona
18/05/2017 - Climbing
Giuliano Cameroni climbs best problem ever in Valle Bavona
At Sonlerto in Valle Bavona, Switzerland, Giuliano Cameroni has made the first ascent of Grande gigante gentile. Graded 8A and 12m tall, the 20-year-old Swiss climber has described the line as 'the perfect highball'.
A tribute to our friend, Ueli Steck. By Steve House
08/05/2017 - Alpinism
A tribute to our friend, Ueli Steck. By Steve House
In memory of Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck who died while climbing on Nuptse in Nepal on April 30, 2017, written by his friend and ace American alpinist Steve House.
Trad climbing: James Pearson takes on the difficult Le Voyage at Annot
03/05/2017 - Climbing
Trad climbing: James Pearson takes on the difficult Le Voyage at Annot
At Annot in France James Pearson has made the first ascent of Le Voyage, a trad climb graded E10 7a that might well be one of the hardest single pitch pure trad routes in the country.
Ueli Steck's dream
03/05/2017 - Interviews
Ueli Steck's dream
We have republished an interview with Ueli Steck we carried out in February 2006 at the Piolet d’Or award, for which the Swiss alpinist had been nominated for his solo enchainment of Cholatse, Tawoche and Ama Dablam.
Ueli Steck, the man and mountaineer
01/05/2017 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck, the man and mountaineer
In memory of Ueli Steck, the great Swiss mountaineer who died yesterday on Nuptse close to Everest.
Voluntarily recall Trango Vergo belay devices batch numbers 16159 and 16195
19/04/2017 - Climbing
Voluntarily recall Trango Vergo belay devices batch numbers 16159 and 16195
As of 14/04/2017 Trango has elected to voluntarily recall all Vergo belay devices in batch numbers 16159 and 16195 that were sold after 1 October 2016.
Gondo Crack climbed trad by Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl
14/04/2017 - Interviews
Gondo Crack climbed trad by Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl
Interview with Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl after the first free ascent of Gondo Crack at the crag Cippo in Switzerland. The duo freed the route as an 8c sport climb and then did without the bolts and climbed the route with nuts and friends to produce one of the...
Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes
29/03/2017 - Alpinism
Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes
Climbing in Patagonia: on 26/01/2017 Tomas Franchini and his brother Silvestro Franchini made a quick, alpine style first ascent up Cerro Penitentes. The new route is called ‘El Mariano’ (750m, 85° M4).
Passion, alpinism and risks
17/02/2017 - Alpinism
Passion, alpinism and risks
A thought for Mauro Franceschini, Antonella Gallo, Antonella Gerini and Fabrizio Recchia who yesterday, Thursday 16/02/17, lost their lives when the icefall Bonne année collapsed in Valle di Gressoney, Valle d’Aosta, Italy.
Laura Rogora / Climbing into the future
15/02/2017 - Climbing
Laura Rogora / Climbing into the future
Interview with Italian climber Laura Rogora who, aged a mere 15, made the first ascent of a route at Collepardo on the outskirts of Rome which could be one of the hardest sport climbs ever freed by a woman.
Romano Benet and Tine Cuder control Hysteria, a new icefall in Val Raccolana
01/02/2017 - Alpinism
Romano Benet and Tine Cuder control Hysteria, a new icefall in Val Raccolana
Winter mountaineering: first ascent video and interview with Romano Benet who, with Slovenia's Tine Cuder, made the first ascent of the new icefall Hysteria at Rio Vandul in Val Raccolana (Italy).
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter trilogy by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
19/01/2017 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter trilogy by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
Winter mountaineering: on 31/12/2016 at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites the alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini climbed in a singole day Via Comici-Dimai on Cima Grande (in 1:45), the Cassin route up Cima Ovest (2:45) and the Innerkofler route up Cima Piccola (1:15).
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...

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