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Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
25/02/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
52 climbs carried out in 2015 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave - La Meije in France. During the 24th edition, Polish mountaineer Wojciech Kurtyka will receive the...
Henry Worsley and the Urge to Explore
18/02/2016 - Alpinism
Henry Worsley and the Urge to Explore
In remembering Henry Worsley, the British explorer who lost his life during his attempt to cross the Antarctic continent, from one coast to the other, solo, unsupported and unassisted, Marcello Rossi discusses the value and importance of exploration by placing it in the current historical and social context.
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)
03/02/2016 - Alpinism
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold who on Sunday 31 January 2016 made the first repeat of the Torre Traverse in Patagonia by enchaining Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre. The American alpinists needed just 20 hours and 40 minutes from Col Standhardt to the summit...
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
02/02/2016 - Climbing
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
From 2 - 21 December 2015 Octavio Aragon, Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah made the first ascent of El Son del Viento (5.12d, 420m) a new sports climb up the North Face of El Diente, Parque Nacional Cumbres de Monterrey, Mexico.
Maria Tolokonina and Maxim Tomilov win the Ice Climbing World Cup 2016
01/02/2016 - Competitions
Maria Tolokonina and Maxim Tomilov win the Ice Climbing World Cup 2016
The final stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2016 took place last weekend at Rabenstein - Corvara in Italy. After four competitions, both the Lead and Speed World Cups were won by the Russians Maria Tolokonina and Maxim Tomilov. Lead stage victory went ot Janez Svoljšak from Slovenia and...
Reinhold Messner recalls the Messner slab on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
13/01/2016 - Alpinism
Reinhold Messner recalls the Messner slab on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The video of Reinhold Messner remembering the famous Messner slab on the route Pilastro di Mezzo, Sass de la Crusc (Heiligkreuzkofel), Dolomites.
Ortler Trinitas: Riegler brothers complete their South Tyrolean trilogy
11/01/2016 - Alpinism
Ortler Trinitas: Riegler brothers complete their South Tyrolean trilogy
Florian Riegler reports about his ascent of Trinitas (WI4, M5, 1000m), a probable new route up the NW Face of Ortler climbed on 27/12/2015 together with his brother Martin Riegler. With this ascent the two South Tyrolean alpinists have completed the trilogy of new routes that includes the summits of...
Donner Summit saved for climbing in California
30/12/2015 - Climbing
Donner Summit saved for climbing in California
Rock climbing at the Black Wall and other granite crags at the world class Donner Summit in California has been secured thanks to the Access Fund, the local climbing community and other partners who have purchased the land.
Jacopo Larcher repeats Psychogramm 8b+ trad in Austria
16/12/2015 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats Psychogramm 8b+ trad in Austria
At the Bürser Platte in Voralberg, Austria, Jacopo Larcher has repeated Psychogramm, the trad climb graded 8b+.
Gabriele Moroni claims Maestri di Vita at Metanodotto
11/12/2015 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni claims Maestri di Vita at Metanodotto
Italian rock climber Gabriele Moroni has made the first ascent of Maestri di Vita, Life Masters, a difficult and dangerous trad climb at Metanodotto in the Aosta Valley.
Jimmy Chin: adventure in a photograph
11/12/2015 - Interviews
Jimmy Chin: adventure in a photograph
Interview with American alpinist, photographer and filmmaker Jimmy Chin. By Alessandra Raggio
Jacopo Larcher climbs Lapoterapia trad at Osso in Italy
09/12/2015 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher climbs Lapoterapia trad at Osso in Italy
Jacopo Larcher has repeated Lapoterapia, the 8c at Osso (Piemonte, Italy) freed by Alessandro Manini in 2012, this time greenpoint ie skipping the bolts and using trad gear to protect the climb. The report and photos by Riky Felderer.
UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags
25/11/2015 - Climbing
UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the new document produced by the UIAA (the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) which outlines management strategies for individual climbers, bolters and manufacturers for anchor safety and bolting of sport climbs at seaside crags.
Khane Valley 2015 Italian Karakorum Expedition
07/11/2015 - Alpinism
Khane Valley 2015 Italian Karakorum Expedition
The report by Walter Polidori, leader of the Italian 1 to 1 Challenge, the climbing expedition to Khane Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan.
Basilicata: searching for climbing's Never Never land. By Marzio Nardi
30/10/2015 - Climbing
Basilicata: searching for climbing's Never Never land. By Marzio Nardi
Marzio Nardi reports about Rock Slave XP 2015, the climbing trip to Castelmezzano and Pietrapertosa and the Lucane Dolomites in Basilicata, Souther Italy. A journey inspired by the famous book "Mezzogiorno di pietra" published in 1985 by Alessandro Gogna.
Dolomitspit, new Dolomites rock climb up Sas Ciampac
23/10/2015 - Alpinism
Dolomitspit, new Dolomites rock climb up Sas Ciampac
On 20/09/2015 Simon Kehrer and Manuel Baumgartner completed Dolomitspit (530m, VII, VI obl.) a new rock climb up the South Face of Sas Ciampac (2672m), Val Gardena, Dolomites. The route was started initially in 2007 (with Karl Unterkircher) and was completed in 2015 after three days of effort that included...

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