4145 News found

Interview with Albert Leichtfried after the first ascent together with Benedikt Purner of Senza piombo, the new mixed climb established in Vallunga with difficulties up to M10 WI 5 protected only with trad gear and without bolts and pegs.

Interview with American climber Chris McNamara, an expert big wall climber and author of the recently published book How To Big Wall Climb.

The Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have made the first ascent of Senza piombo in Val Lunga (Dolomites); a difficult mixed route protected only with trad gear and presumably the first M10 in the world established in this clean style.

On 01/01/2013 the Slovenian alpinists Andrej Grmovšek and Luka Krajnc made the first ascent of Zuko traverse (V 5.10+, 650m).

On 27/01/2013 Croatian climber Ivan Lisica-Lija made the third repeat of Il Maratoneta, the legendary route first climbed by Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla at Paklenica (Croatia).

On 26/01/2013 the Slovenians Dejan Koren and Boötjan Mikuû made the first ascent of Gladiator (205 m, IV, M7-, WI6, X, R) a difficult new icefall on Cima delle Cenge, Valle di Riofreddo (Tarvisio, Tridente area), Italy.

Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Jerzu, one of the most beautiful and popular climbing areas in Sardinia.

Interview with John Ellison, the man behind Climbers against Cancer, the campaign which aims to raise awareness and gather funds for cancer research.

Video profile of Tommy Caldwell, one of America's most accomplished rock climbers, on The Dawn Wall, El Capitan, Yosemite USA.

On 18/01/2013, Davide Capozzi, Manu Gross and Julien Herry made the first complete snowboard descent of Couloir Jess, Flammes de Pierre (Mont Blanc).

The video by Anson Fogel and Skip Armstrong that documents the search for the perfect waterfall in the Mexican jungle.

The second stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2013 was won on 19 January in Saas Fee (Switzerland), after two thrilling finals by the Russians Maxim Tomilov and Maria Tolokonina. Angelika Rainer from Italy placed second.

On 7 and 8 January 2013 the Catores Mountain Guides Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder made the first ascent of "La Legrima" (WI6 M6 V+, two sections of A0), the great ice and mixed line up the North Face of the Sassolungo (Dolomites) long pursued by numerous ice climbers.

On 12/01/2013 Beppe Ballico, Andrea Gamberini and Marco Milanese made what is likely to be the first ascent of the icefall Psyco Killer (IV+, WI7-, D5, 225m) on the Tofana di Mezzo (Dolomites).

On Saturday 12 January 2013 Giorgio Bertagnolli and Cristian Defant made the first repeat of Via Valeria on Crozzon di Brenta, Dolomites, the ice climb established on 6-7 January 2013 by Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti with difficulties up to VI- ice, M6, VI+ rock.

On 30/12/2012 Andrea Di Donato, Andrea Di Pascasio and Lorenzo Angelozzi attempted the first winter ascent of Orient Express, but were stopped by Angelozzi's massive fall. Fortunately there were no serious consequences. Andrea Di Pascasio recounts the story.