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Hielo Continental: the Ragni di Lecco expedition completes traverse
06/02/2009 - Alpinism
Hielo Continental: the Ragni di Lecco expedition completes traverse
Hervé Barmasse, Giovanni Ongaro and Daniele Bernasconi have completed the traverse of the Hielo Continetal Sud and safely reached the Falcon Ford. Their idea of climbing the North Pillar of Cerro Riso Patron faltered as the mountain proved inaccessible, so much so that reaching the Fjord proved an undertaking in...
Antarctic, new routes for Huber, Siegrist and Richl
04/02/2009 - Alpinism
Antarctic, new routes for Huber, Siegrist and Richl
Interview with Alexander Huber who together with his brother Thomas, Stephan Siegrist and Max Riechl carried out three first ascents on Holtanna and Ulvetanna, two relatively unknown, remote and beautiful mountains in the Antarctic.
Per Leila and 2 new icefalls in Friuli
28/01/2009 - Alpinism
Per Leila and 2 new icefalls in Friuli
On 17/01/2009 Luca Vuerich and Marco Milanese carried out the first ascent of 'Per Leila' (120m, III/6+) in Val Riofreddo (Cima delle Cenge, Julian Alps). 0n 9/01, Luca Vuerich, Eros Busetto and Michele Martina made the first ascents of Eros and The Prophet (Fusine, Mangart, Julian Alps).
Mello's Moon, new icefall in Val di Mello
28/01/2009 - Alpinism
Mello's Moon, new icefall in Val di Mello
On 16/01/2009 Fabio Salini and Manuel Panizza carried out the first ascent of Mello's Moon (180m, III-5+), a rare ice formation in Val di Mello, Val Masino.
Gondo Gully, new gully in Switzerland's Gondoschlucht
22/01/2009 - Alpinism
Gondo Gully, new gully in Switzerland's Gondoschlucht
On 18/01/09 Francesco Vaudo, Andrea Gamberini and Elio Bonfanti made the first ascent of Gondo Gully (300m, II-M4-4), a gully on the Parete nascosta in the Gondoschlucht (Simplon Pass, Ossola, Switzerland).
Gianluca Daniele frees Grandi Gesti at the Grotta dell’Areonauta, Italy
21/01/2009 - Climbing
Gianluca Daniele frees Grandi Gesti at the Grotta dell’Areonauta, Italy
On 11 January Gainluca Daniele made the first ascent of "Grandi Gesti", proposing 9a for this long route which climbs through the massive roof at the Grotta dell'Areonauta and combines a series of exiting lines.
Bogdan Rokosz climbs testpiece in Mamutowa Cave, Poland
13/01/2009 - Climbing
Bogdan Rokosz climbs testpiece in Mamutowa Cave, Poland
Bogdan Rokosz establishes 'Sprawa Honoru' 9a at the Mamutowa Cave in Poland.
Ice climbing in Tyrol, Austria
13/01/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Tyrol, Austria
A selction of some of the best and most representative icefalls in the Tyrol, Austria, by local Mountain Guide Albert Leichtfried.
Ryan Pasquill frees major new route at Ilkley, England
12/01/2009 - Climbing
Ryan Pasquill frees major new route at Ilkley, England
Ryan Pasquill has made the first ascent of the impressive gritstone line to the left of The New Statesman at Ilkley, England. The route has been called Gerty Berwick.
Bishop bouldering: Kevin Jorgeson frees Ambrosia at the Buttermilks
09/01/2009 - Climbing
Bishop bouldering: Kevin Jorgeson frees Ambrosia at the Buttermilks
Kevin Jorgeson from America has made the first ascent of the super highball 'Ambrosia' at the Buttermilks, Bishop and the first repeat of Luminance V11.
La sor blanche, new Dolomites mixed route by Riegler brothers
08/01/2009 - Alpinism
La sor blanche, new Dolomites mixed route by Riegler brothers
On 26 December 2008 the brothers Florian and Martin Riegler mande the first ascent of 'Sorella bianca“ (M9 WI6-), a new drytooling and mixed route in Val Lunga (Val Gardena, Dolomites, Italy).
Dave Macleod repeats The Walk of Life
07/01/2009 - Climbing
Dave Macleod repeats The Walk of Life
Dave Macleod has carried out the first repeat of The Walk of Life at Dyer's Lookout, North Devon, England, downgrading the route to E9 6c.
Riegler brothers and Pandora: multi-pitch first ascent in Arco
31/12/2008 - Climbing
Riegler brothers and Pandora: multi-pitch first ascent in Arco
In September 2008 Martin and Florian Riegler made the first ascent of "Pandora" (8 pitches, max 8b) on the Mandrea wall at Arco, Italy. In October the two South Tyroleans redpointed all pitches individually, but the route still awaits its first free ascent.
Drytooling, past and present by Albert Leichtfried
24/12/2008 - Climbing
Drytooling, past and present by Albert Leichtfried
Albert Leichtfried, one of the best ice climbers of his generation, examines the state of drytooling in Austria and reports about his new route 'Encore' M13 at the Dryland above Innsbruck
Dave Macleod winter climbing in the Mamores, Scotland
19/12/2008 - Alpinism
Dave Macleod winter climbing in the Mamores, Scotland
At the start of the week Dave Macleod made the first ascent of Yo Bro VIII, 9 at Mullach nan Coirean, Mamores, Scotland.
Chris Sharma frees Golpe De Estado at Siurana
18/12/2008 - Climbing
Chris Sharma frees Golpe De Estado at Siurana
Chris Shama has made the first ascent of Golpe De Estado at Siurana, Spain.