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Márek Holeček, Radoslav Groh climb new route up Huandoy North in Peru
12/08/2019 - Alpinism
Márek Holeček, Radoslav Groh climb new route up Huandoy North in Peru
Climbing alpine style, Márek Holeček and Radoslav Groh have established a new route up Huandoy North (6360m) in Peru.
Roger Schaeli, Stephan Siegrist establish Silberrücken up Jungfrau in Switzerland
17/07/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli, Stephan Siegrist establish Silberrücken up Jungfrau in Switzerland
Swiss alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli have made the first ascent of Silberrücken up Rotbrätt on the west face of Jungfrau. With difficulties up to 8a+, all pitches have been freed individually and a one-day redpoint is still outstanding.
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
12/07/2019 - Interviews
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
German rock climber Robert Leistner has made the first free ascent of Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten up the Nonnengärtner tower in the Elbsandstein massif in Germany. Graded 12a, or French 8c, this is now the most difficult climb in the German part of the Elbsandsteingebirge. What makes this climb remarkable...
Two rucksacks, one friendship. Ivo Ferrari and remembers Marco Anghileri
07/07/2019 - Alpinism
Two rucksacks, one friendship. Ivo Ferrari and remembers Marco Anghileri
Ivo Ferrari remembers Marco Anghileri, his friend and mountaineer from Lecco.
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of:...
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China
20/06/2019 - Interviews
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China
Interview with the Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini after his solo ascent of the virgin East Face of Lamo She (6070m) in China. The 1500m new climb is called Wild Blood and was graded WI5, M5, V°, 90°
Mountaineering exploration in Pakistan for Matteo della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani, David Hall
17/06/2019 - Alpinism
Mountaineering exploration in Pakistan for Matteo della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani, David Hall
A group of Italian mountaineers comprised of Matteo della Bordella, Maurizio Giordani, Massimo Faletti and David Hall are about to embark on a one-month expedition to explore unchartered mountains in Pakistan.
Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal
11/06/2019 - Alpinism
Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal
Czech mountaineer Márek Holeček reports about his alpine style ascent, carried out with climbing partner Zdeněk Hák of the virgin NW Face of Chamlang (7321 m) in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new climb has been called UFO Line and is described as 'the hardest climb we have done together in...
Tomas Franchini completes solo ascent of Lamo She in China
04/06/2019 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini completes solo ascent of Lamo She in China
Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini has successfully made a solo ascent of the hitherto unclimbed East Face of Lamo She, a 6070m peak in China.
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Saro Costa reports about the first ski descent of the ENE Face of Piz Morteratsch (3752m) in the Bernina range in Switzerland, climbed and skied via the Zippert / Kohler route on 23/05/2019 together with Davide Terraneo and Mattia Varchetti.
Cima di Bon NE Face skied by Luca and Roberto Dallavalle
Cima di Bon NE Face skied by Luca and Roberto Dallavalle
On 20/04/2019 Luca Dallavalle and his brother Roberto Dallavalle skied the Northeast Face of Cima di Bon in the Adamello - Presanella group. This is likely to be the first ski descent.
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain, established a 1000m new climb called Quajanaq. This shares sections...
La Vierge du Flambeau in Mont Blanc massif / Miss Go by Ezio Marlier
04/04/2019 - Alpinism
La Vierge du Flambeau in Mont Blanc massif / Miss Go by Ezio Marlier
Ezio Marlier introduces the modern mixed climb Miss No which he first ascended with Elisabetta Ceaglio up the NE Face of La Vierge du Flambeau (3244m), Mont Blanc massif in April 2017.
Brenta Dolomites steep skiing: descents off Cima Brenta and Cima del Vallon
Brenta Dolomites steep skiing: descents off Cima Brenta and Cima del Vallon
In the Brenta Dolomites Luca Dallavalle and his brother Roberto skied the west couloir of Cima Brenta (3151m) on 09/03/2019, while on 25/03/2019 they skied the NW Face of Cima del Vallon (2968m).
Matterhorn West Face climbed in winter by Marco Farina and Marco Majori
21/02/2019 - Alpinism
Matterhorn west face climbed in winter by Marco Farina and Marco Majori
From 15 to 16 February 2019 Marco Farina and Marco Majori completed a rare repeat of Via Ottin - Daguin up the west face of the Matterhorn.
Pietra Grande first ski descent in Brenta Dolomites by Claudio Lanzafame, Marco Maganzini
Pietra Grande first ski descent in Brenta Dolomites by Claudio Lanzafame, Marco Maganzini
Claudio Lanzafame and Marco Maganzini have made a first ski descent on the northwest face of Pietra Grande in the Brenta Dolomites, Italy. Lanzafame reports about True Love, climbed and skied on on 20/12/2018

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