342 News found

The thoughts about alpinism in Patagonia by Hansjörg Auer who this season, apart from establishing a new route up Aguja Guillaumet with Mario Walder, suddenly had to battle hard against the infamous Patagonian storms.

Maurizio Oviglia and Gianluca Piras have reequipped the climb Easy Gymopedie and the abseils down the route Sole Incantatore on Aguglia of Goloritzé (Sardinia). The report and video by Maurizio Oviglia about their restyling of one of the most beautiful towers in Italy and further afield. This monolith was climbed...

On 14/01/2013 Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher soloed the Via dei Ragni on Cerro Torre in  Patagonia in a lightening fast time of 3 hours 15 minutes from his bivouac below the Colle della Speranza... Pucher's story and our interview.

The second international congress entitled “New Advances in Mountain Medicine and Emergency” will be held at the Atahotel in Varese on April 18th and 19th, 2013, organised by the Università degli Studi dell’Insubria in collaboration with the Institute of Mountain Emergency Medicine, part of the EUR.AC of Bolzano.

The North East ridge of Ulvetanna Peak (2931m) in the Antarctica has been climbed for the first time by Leo Houlding, Sean Leary, Alastair Lee, Jason Pickles, Chris Rabone and David Reeves.

Luka Krajnc and Tadej Krišelj from Slovenia have made the first ascent of The Real Kekec, an important new route up Pilar Goretta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.

Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.

On the North Face of Croz del Rifugio (Brenta Dolomites) Italian Mountain Guide Franco Nicolini has put up two new routes and reequipped the belays of his Via Elena (1988) as well as Via Bregtie, first climbed in 1963 by Cesare Maestri and Ernesto Carafoli.

At the Red River Gorge (USA) Adam Ondra has on-sighted Golden Ticket and Pure Imagination which, as he states in his report, he feels are 8c+.

On Sunday 30/09/2012 Jain Kim from Korea and Ramon Julian Puigblanque from Spain won the 5th stage of the Lead World Cup 2012 in Atlanta (USA) and doubled their takings after victory in Puurs (BEL) a week ago.

The interview with Adam Ondra who on 04/10/2012 freed his mega project at the Hanshelleren - Flatanger cave in Norway. The 55m route is called Change, is graded 9b+ and is certainly one of the hardest sport climbs in the world

Hervé Barmasse talks about his failed attempt-project carried out last July together with Daniele Bernasconi up the virgin North Face of Ogre.

On 7 - 8 September 2012 Alessandro Baù, Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini made the first free ascent of Colonne d'Ercole (1200m, max IX, obl. VIII+) up Punta Tissi on the NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites, the great new route they established between 2009 and 2012.

Maurizio Oviglia interviews Dogan Palut, one of the most talented and famous climbers in Turkey.

2/09/2012. At the Arco Climbing Stadium Alex Pucciogtom America won the Rock Master Boulder 2012, beating Melissa Le Neve (Fra) and Katharina Saurwein (Aut). Russia's Dmitrii Sharafutdinov won the men's event by beating his teammateRustam Gelmanov and Slovenia's Klemen Becan.

On 1 -2/08/2012 Italian climbers Giorgio Travaglia and Stefano Valsecchi made the first ascent of Pilastro Parmenide (500m VI + A3+ + 100m of grade II) up the South Face of Cima dell'Auta orientale (Marmolada, Dolomites). The route was started by Travaglia and others in 2010.