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Walter Bonatti, goodbye
14/09/2011 - Alpinism
Walter Bonatti, goodbye
Last night Walter Bonatti passed away. He was 81 years old and one of the greatest legends of alpinism of all times.
Mario Prinoth: Silbergeier and the Battisti - Weiss
01/09/2011 - Alpinism
Mario Prinoth: Silbergeier and the Battisti - Weiss
On 2 August 2011 Italian climber Mario Prinoth carried out a rare repeat of Silbergeier (8b/8b+, 240m) in the Rätikon, Switzerland, while on 25 May he had managed to on-sight the via Battisti - Weiss (400m, max 8a+) on Spiz delle Roe de Ciampiè (Larsec, Catinaccio, Dolomites).
No way down. The book by Graham Bowley about the 2008 tragedy on K2
01/07/2011 - Book-press
No way down. The book by Graham Bowley about the 2008 tragedy on K2
No Way Down: Life and Death on K2 by Graham Bowley has now been published in Italy by Mondadori. The book retraces the 2008 tragedy on K2 which cost the lives of 11 alpinists and only Italian mountaineer Marco Confortola survived.
Arco Rock Legends 2011, the nominations
21/06/2011 - Events
Arco Rock Legends 2011, the nominations
All the nominations for the VIth Arco Rock Legends, the sport climbing Oscars scheduled to take place on Thursday 21 July 2011 at Arco (Italy) with two awards, the Salewa Rock Award and the La Sportiva Competition Award. The celebration will be held during the Arco 2011 IFSC Climbing World...
Shark's Tooth, first ascent in Greenland by Ruchkin and Mikhaylov
10/06/2011 - Alpinism
Shark's Tooth, first ascent in Greenland by Ruchkin and Mikhaylov
At the start of May Alexander Ruchkin and Mikhail Mikhaylov carried out the first ascent of the Shark's Tooth (1555m) in Greenland via their route 'Dance on Tiptoes' (1210m, VII A2, 6c).
Dolomie 2011 - Happy birthday Dolomites Unesco
09/06/2011 - Events
Dolomie 2011 - Happy birthday Dolomites Unesco
The Dolomiti-Dolomiten-Dolomites-Dolomitis UNESCO Foundation now celebrates its second anniversary since being added to the list of World Heriage Sites, with an event dedicated to families and children on Sunday 26 June 2011 in Val di Zoldo, at Forno di Zoldo.
Testa o Croce on Monte Cimo: first free ascent per Nicola Tondini
01/06/2011 - Alpinism
Testa o Croce on Monte Cimo: first free ascent per Nicola Tondini
On 16 April 2011 Nicola Tondini managed the second free ascent of "Testa o Croce" (185m, 8b max, 7c obligatory), the route on the Monte Cimo buttress (Val d’Adige) established together with Nicola Sartori in autumn 2009 and which Sartori had freed in April 2010.
Simone Moro and helicopter rescues in Nepal
01/06/2011 - Alpinism
Simone Moro and helicopter rescues in Nepal
Interview with Simone Moro about the latest helicopter rescues in Nepal's mountains.
The Mount Hunter Cartright Connection - Matt Helliker interview details
01/06/2011 - Alpinism
The Mount Hunter Cartright Connection - Matt Helliker interview details
Interview with British mountaineer Matt Hellinker after his first ascent of the Cartwright Connection, up Moonflower Buttress on Mount Hunter in the Denali National Park, Alaska together with Jon Bracey.
Hervé Barmasse, the new Matterhorn route and the exploration of the Alps
22/04/2011 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, the new Matterhorn route and the exploration of the Alps
On 9 April, after 4 days on the wall and three bivvies, Hervé Barmasse reached the summit of Picco Muzio via a new 700m route up the great pillar located on the South Face. This is the first stage in a trilogy to explore the Alps during which Barmasse plans...
Ueli Steck top speed solo on Shisha Pangma
18/04/2011 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck top speed solo on Shisha Pangma
On 17/04/2011 Swissman Ueli Steck ascended Shisha Pangma (8027m), Tibet in record time.
Passion Together, in memory of Chloé Graftiaux
29/03/2011 - Book-press
Passion Together, in memory of Chloé Graftiaux
A book and non-profit association have been created to honour Chloé Graftiaux, the Belgian climber who lost her life last August in a fall from Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (Mont Blanc). Published below is an open letter by Chloé's parents
Bernd Zangerl adds two Tessin classics
25/03/2011 - Climbing
Bernd Zangerl adds two Tessin classics
Austrian boulderer Bernd Zangerl has established two new boulder problems in Switzerland's Tessin, Guilty of the Hilti and Humphrey Bogart (Gedächtnisweg)
From the Pierra Menta to the Grande Course... the changing face of ski mountaineering competitions
19/03/2011 - Competitions
From the Pierra Menta to the Grande Course... the changing face of ski mountaineering competitions
The Grande Course has just begun, the first international ski mountaineering cup comparable to a tennis Grand Slam. Action kicked off on 17 March on the slopes of France's Arêches-Beaufort, which hosted the Grenoble winter Olympics, with the classic French ski mountaineering competition Pierra Menta which dates back to 1985.
Cugi's Corner, new route up the NW Face of Cimon di Palantina
11/03/2011 - Alpinism
Cugi's Corner, new route up the NW Face of Cimon di Palantina
On 5 March 2011 the Italians Barry Bona and Simone Favero established Cugi's Corner, a new route up the NW Face of Cimon di Palantina (Col Nudo-Cavallo moutain chain, Alpago, Dolomites).
New ice climbs in Austria's Floitental by Leichtfried, Purner & Co
08/02/2011 - Alpinism
New ice climbs in Austria's Floitental by Leichtfried, Purner & Co
Two new icefalls in the Floitental (Zillertal), Austria: Excalibur (WI6/R, 120m, Albert Leichtfried & Paul Mair 30/01/2011) and Quasimodo (M7 WI7, 90m, Benedikt Purner & Klaus Pietersteiner 03/02/2011).

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