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Laura Rogora 8b+ onsight and 9a redpoint at Montsant and Margalef, Spain
06/01/2020 - Climbing
Laura Rogora 8b+ onsight and 9a redpoint at Montsant and Margalef, Spain
At Montsant in Spain Laura Rogora has managed to onsight her first 8b+ while at Margalef she redpointed the 9a La Bongada.
Langental Dolomites / Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayr in tune with Saxofon
09/12/2019 - Alpinism
Langental Dolomites / Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayr in tune with Saxofon
Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayr have climbed Saxofon, a possible new ice and mixed climb above the classic La Piovra icefall in Langental / Vallunga, Dolomites.
Heinz Mariacher: Back to the future? Magnus Midtbø explores Arco's historic slab climbs
27/11/2019 - Climbing
Heinz Mariacher: Back to the future? Magnus Midtbø explores Arco's historic slab climbs
Heinz Mariacher shares his thoughts after Magnus Midtbø paid a visit to Arco, Italy, during which the Norwegian climber attempted to classic slab climbs dating back to the 1980s and first ascended by Mariacher himself: Super Swing at the Swing Area and Tom & Jerry at Spiaggia delle Lucertole.
Orazio Codega, historic president and soul of CAMP, passes away aged 80
19/11/2019 - Alpinism
Orazio Codega, historic president and soul of CAMP, passes away aged 80
Orazio Codega, president and genuine soul of CAMP, has passed away aged 80. Born in 1939, from the Sixties until 2004 he shaped the Italian company into becoming it one of the world leaders in the production of climbing and mountaineering equipment.
Rotpunkt featuring Alex Megos
18/11/2019 - Climbing
Rotpunkt featuring Alex Megos
The film Rotpunkt featuring Alexander Megos; a portrait of the German climber and a look into the history of free climbing including the likes of Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich.
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
15/11/2019 - Alpinism
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
From 11 - 16 October 2019 alpinists Quentin Roberts from Canada and Juho Knuuttila from Finland made an impressive attempt of the unclimbed North Pillar of Tengkangpoche (Teng Kang Poche) in Nepal. Knuuttila reports about their first proper experience climbing in the Himalaya.
Eiger North Face Meltdown established rope solo by Robert Jasper
02/10/2019 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face Meltdown established rope solo by Robert Jasper
German mountain guide Robert Jasper has made a rope solo first ascent of Meltdown up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
Uncertain Future scoped on Dolomites Spiz de la Lastia by Lorenzo Corso, Diego Toigo, Luca Vallata
16/09/2019 - Alpinism
Uncertain future scoped on Dolomites Spiz de la Lastia by Lorenzo Corso, Diego Toigo, Luca Vallata
On Spiz de le Lastia in the Agner group, Dolomites, Lorenzo Corso, Diego Toigo, Luca Vallata have made the first ascent of Futuro Incerto. Diego Toigo reports about the climb, established with one bivouac from 18 to 19 August 2019.
Rock Master Stories, Arco hosts the Champions evening on Friday
29/08/2019 - Events
Rock Master Stories, Arco hosts the Champions evening on Friday
Adam Ondra, Mina Markovič, Stefano Ghisolfi and Jakob Schubert, or four absolute sport climbing champions, will talk about their early climbing competitions at the Youth World Championships 2019 in Arco. David Lama, Albino Marchi and Giuseppe Filippi will be remembered during the evening event.
Alpine Trilogy completed by Robbie Phillips
27/08/2019 - Alpinism
Alpine Trilogy completed by Robbie Phillips
With his repeat of Des Kaisers neue Kleider, Scottish climber Robbie Phillips has completed the Alpine Trilogy. Composed on End of Silence by Thomas Huber, Silbergeier by Beat Kammerlander and Des Kaisers neue Kleider by Stefan Glowacz, 25 years ago these three routes were considered the most difficult multipitch sports...
Roger Schaeli, Sean Villanueva on Eiger first one day ascent of La Vida es Silbar
15/08/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli, Sean Villanueva on Eiger first one day ascent of La Vida es Silbar
Details of the first one-day ascent of La Vida es Silbar up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland, carried out on 23 July by Roger Schaeli and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll.
Lucie Hrozová dials Digital Crack on Mont Blanc
14/08/2019 - Alpinism
Lucie Hrozová dials Digital Crack on Mont Blanc
Czech climber Lucie Hrozová has repeated Digital Crack, the famous 8a freed by Thierry Renault and Alain Ghersen above Arête des Cosmiques on Aiguille du Midi in the Mont Blanc massif.
Two rucksacks, one friendship. Ivo Ferrari and remembers Marco Anghileri
07/07/2019 - Alpinism
Two rucksacks, one friendship. Ivo Ferrari and remembers Marco Anghileri
Ivo Ferrari remembers Marco Anghileri, his friend and mountaineer from Lecco.
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of:...
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
14/06/2019 - Alpinism
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
In September 2019 the Polish mountaineer Krzysztof Wielicki will receive the Piolets d'Or Carrière 2019. In the past this prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington, Wojciech Kurtyka, Jeff Lowe and Andrej Štremfelj.
Norway Lofoten Islands new rock climbs
09/06/2019 - Alpinism
Norway Lofoten Islands new rock climbs
In May 2019 Bernat Bilarrassa, Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve established two new rock climbs in the Kirkefjord area of the Lofoten Islands in Norway